Hellwig Sway Bars Installation - 2007 Yukon XL Denali

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Joseph Garcia

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Hi Folks,

I completed my Hellwig sway bars installation, and apart from getting the old sway bar components removed, the installation went reasonably smoothly.

I am not a patient uninstaller, so I snapped one U bracket bolt and bent 3 others, during the old sway bars removal process. Hellwig instructions state that these bolts need to be re-used in the installation of the new sway bars, so I had to purchase new bolts. Of course, they were not in stock, so that cost me one day, waiting for them to arrive from the regional warehouse.

To be clear, working under the truck on a creeper is NOT the easiest way to install these sway bars. They are HEAVY, particularly the front sway bar. I actually needed to use a jack to lift and hold the front sway bar in place, so that I could connect the U bracket bolts.

One item to note is that the rear sway bar end links use bolts and nuts require an 18mm socket and wrench. In all of my tools, I have never had an 18mm wrench, as they did not come standard with the sets that I have purchased over the years, and I have never had an occasion to need one. I did not want to use an adjustable wrench on these new fasteners, though I certainly could have. So, in the middle of the rear sway bar installation, I had to go to Lowes and pick up an 18mm combo open and box wrench and an 18mm combo open and ratchet box wrench.

Another item to note for the front sway bar installation is that if you have the 6 speed transmission, you need to place 2 metal plates between the U brackets and the frame, to drop the sway bar slightly to allow adequate clearance, so that the sway bar does not contact the 2 transmission cooler lines.

I drove the truck briefly to get an initial feel of the Hellwig sway bars, and my initial reaction is WOW!! I could not really stress test them out, as I had my 2 90+ lb. White Shepherds in the truck with me, and they don't appreciate it, when I squeal around tight turns, causing them to roll about in the back, slamming into each other. So, I'll stress test them out in greater detail, without the dogs in the truck, over the next few days.

After the installation, I did not notice any unanticipated effects, when driving on a relatively straight road. The feel of the truck, and the minimal steering associated with driving on a straight road, was about the same as it had been with the original sway bars. That is good.

Driving on a winding road, or taking a turn was another whole different experience with these sway bars, however. My initial experience with these sway bars on these roads is that they virtually eliminate any body roll, as @PNW VietVet had previously stated in his initial assessment of these sway bars. As I would go into a turn, my body would automatically start to lean to adjust to the truck's roll, but the truck did not roll. So, here I was leaning over in the driver's seat, but the truck was virtually straight upright! The centrifugal force is still there, of course, in the turning process, but you can experience that force sitting straight upright.

These Hellwig sway bars, so far, are worth every dollar invested in them, and worth the PIA experience in installing them without using a lift. I will report back, after I've had a chance to stress test them. I want to thank @PNW VietVet for making me aware of these sway bars, and for reporting his experiences, and making me become interested in them.

Photos to follow.
 
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Joseph Garcia

Joseph Garcia

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Photos (some, complete with dog hair):

Arrival:

Sway Bars Arrival.jpg


Front sway bar unpacked:

Front Sway Bar Unpacked.jpg


Front sway bar installed:

Front Sway Bar Installed.jpg


Front sway bar U bracket with 2 plates:

Front Sway Bar U Bracket.jpg


Front sway bar end link:

Front Swar Bar End Link.jpg
 

OR VietVet

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You will, or should be, thinking of gnarly roads with lots of twists and turns to road test the rig with. Tight cloverleafs at high speed. Faster speeds thru the curves. That is when it is really fun.

I anticipated and you did come thru with, the story of going thru the curve and anticipating the lean with your body and then not really needing to do that. Centrifugal force is still there but the rig tracks flat. I can just imaging what it will do with the rear sway bar set at the stiffest setting. That will likely be done on mine after I get a BB tune.

I am really happy you like the kits though, @Joseph Garcia
 
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Joseph Garcia

Joseph Garcia

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You will, or should be, thinking of gnarly roads with lots of twists and turns to road test the rig with. Tight cloverleafs at high speed. Faster speeds thru the curves. That is when it is really fun.

I anticipated and you did come thru with, the story of going thru the curve and anticipating the lean with your body and then not really needing to do that. Centrifugal force is still there but the rig tracks flat. I can just imaging what it will do with the rear sway bar set at the stiffest setting. That will likely be done on mine after I get a BB tune.

I am really happy you like the kits though, @Joseph Garcia


The rural town that I live in is virtually all gnarly roads with twists and turns. I got a chance yesterday to drive the truck around without the dogs in the truck (they truly believe that it is THEIR truck, and they get quite upset, when I leave with the truck without them). I powered through the twists and turns, and the truck felt like a completely different vehicle. It really kept itself planted to the pavement, similar to a sports car (for a truck, that is). I had to be a bit careful, as our town's cops love to sit in the woods at the edge of these roads with their radar on, and they would not take kindly to one of these rigs slamming around the turns. I have to watch out for tractors on the road, as well now, as the planting season is beginning here.

I attempted to test the sway bars on my favorite two lane cloverleaf test turn, but there were 2 lazy drivers plodding along in both lanes, so I had to back off the gas halfway around the turn. I'll try that test turn again within the next few days.

I have one other item to note on the installation process, that I failed to mention in my project write-up. The rear sway bar end links use bolts and nuts require an 18mm socket and wrench. In all of my tools, I have never had an 18mm wrench, as they did not come standard with the sets that I have purchased over the years, and I have never had an occasion to need one. I did not want to use an adjustable wrench on these new fasteners, though I certainly could have. So, in the middle of the rear sway bar installation, I had to go to Lowes and pick up an 18mm combo open and box wrench and an 18mm combo open and ratchet box wrench. I'll add this note to my project write-up above.
 
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Tonyrodz

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Hi Folks,

I completed my Hellwig sway bars installation, and apart from getting the old sway bar components removed, the installation went reasonably smoothly.

I am not a patient uninstaller, so I snapped one U bracket bolt and bent 3 others, during the old sway bars removal process. Hellwig instructions state that these bolts need to be re-used in the installation of the new sway bars, so I had to purchase new bolts. Of course, they were not in stock, so that cost me one day, waiting for them to arrive from the regional warehouse.

To be clear, working under the truck on a creeper is NOT the easiest way to install these sway bars. They are HEAVY, particularly the front sway bar. I actually needed to use a jack to lift and hold the front sway bar in place, so that I could connect the U bracket bolts.

One item to note is that the rear sway bar end links use bolts and nuts require an 18mm socket and wrench. In all of my tools, I have never had an 18mm wrench, as they did not come standard with the sets that I have purchased over the years, and I have never had an occasion to need one. I did not want to use an adjustable wrench on these new fasteners, though I certainly could have. So, in the middle of the rear sway bar installation, I had to go to Lowes and pick up an 18mm combo open and box wrench and an 18mm combo open and ratchet box wrench.

Another item to note for the front sway bar installation is that if you have the 6 speed transmission, you need to place 2 metal plates between the U brackets and the frame, to drop the sway bar slightly to allow adequate clearance, so that the sway bar does not contact the 2 transmission cooler lines.

I drove the truck briefly to get an initial feel of the Hellwig sway bars, and my initial reaction is WOW!! I could not really stress test them out, as I had my 2 90+ lb. White Shepherds in the truck with me, and they don't appreciate it, when I squeal around tight turns, causing them to roll about in the back, slamming into each other. So, I'll stress test them out in greater detail, without the dogs in the truck, over the next few days.

After the installation, I did not notice any unanticipated effects, when driving on a relatively straight road. The feel of the truck, and the minimal steering associated with driving on a straight road, was about the same as it had been with the original sway bars. That is good.

Driving on a winding road, or taking a turn was another whole different experience with these sway bars, however. My initial experience with these sway bars on these roads is that they virtually eliminate any body roll, as @PNW VietVet had previously stated in his initial assessment of these sway bars. As I would go into a turn, my body would automatically start to lean to adjust to the truck's roll, but the truck did not roll. So, here I was leaning over in the driver's seat, but the truck was virtually straight upright! The centrifugal force is still there, of course, in the turning process, but you can experience that force sitting straight upright.

These Hellwig sway bars, so far, are worth every dollar invested in them, and worth the PIA experience in installing them without using a lift. I will report back, after I've had a chance to stress test them. I want to thank @PNW VietVet for making me aware of these sway bars, and for reporting his experiences, and making me become interested in them.

Photos to follow.
How stiff would it be on the last hole? I was thinking of putting mine there.
 
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Joseph Garcia

Joseph Garcia

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That's weird. I have used an 18 mm tool many times.


Perhaps, it is because you've had GM vehicles for a while (if that is that you've used the 18mm tool on many times). This is the first GM product that I've owned or worked on since the late 1960's, and they weren't metric back then.
 

Sparksalot

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Perhaps, it is because you've had GM vehicles for a while (if that is that you've used the 18mm tool on many times). This is the first GM product that I've owned or worked on since the late 1960's, and they weren't metric back then.
I’ve had to get some 18mm as well. It used to be metric was always odd in larger sizes.
 

91RS

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I had the Eibach bars on mine and then changed to the Hellwig and I couldn't believe how big of a difference it was considering I already had bigger bars installed.

I didn't need the spacers on mine. I ordered it not knowing I needed them and found out after it arrived. I tried it anyway and the bar is nowhere near the transmission lines. Mine also came with new bolts for the front straps so I'm surprised you had to reuse the originals.
 
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Joseph Garcia

Joseph Garcia

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Hey Joseph,

Nice write up on the bars. Can’t wait to get a set on our Esky ESV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thank you for your kind words. I'm doing all that I can to contribute to our shared knowledge base.
 
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