BDS lift travel numbers?
- Thread starter Fifty
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I can’t give you a specific number, but I’ve talked with their tech support and know some things. They’re very helpful, so give them a call or email if this is insufficient.
The travel remains the same as stock in the front. It’s the stock strut unless you buy the coilover upgrade.
The 4” kit just moves everything down 4”, so the frame is 4” further from the ground and the CV axles at ~level, so approximately equal travel up and down.
The 6” kit the only change is a taller strut spacer. Effectively a 4” kit combined with a 2” stretch as you get in a leveling kit. So your CV will be angled down to the hub. You’ll have less down travel and more up travel from the static position.
All the above is with respect to the front, I didn’t inquire about the rear.
For my own education I’ve done some limited tests of articulation with the front sway bar disconnected, and I only get 2” of downward travel and about the same upward on my SSV.
My takeaway from all that is the 4” kit likely has a better range of motion to absorb both compression and extension on the road or trail. I’d be very interested to hear any other information on this topic.
The travel remains the same as stock in the front. It’s the stock strut unless you buy the coilover upgrade.
The 4” kit just moves everything down 4”, so the frame is 4” further from the ground and the CV axles at ~level, so approximately equal travel up and down.
The 6” kit the only change is a taller strut spacer. Effectively a 4” kit combined with a 2” stretch as you get in a leveling kit. So your CV will be angled down to the hub. You’ll have less down travel and more up travel from the static position.
All the above is with respect to the front, I didn’t inquire about the rear.
For my own education I’ve done some limited tests of articulation with the front sway bar disconnected, and I only get 2” of downward travel and about the same upward on my SSV.
My takeaway from all that is the 4” kit likely has a better range of motion to absorb both compression and extension on the road or trail. I’d be very interested to hear any other information on this topic.
Dang. I got so excited when I saw the rear spring. And then a little less excited when I saw it was for the 6 inch kit.
I wish they had a spring for the 4 inch kit.
Then I could run a silverado long travel kit from someone one, and then their rear with a proper shock.
or really to be honest if I could find a rear coil that only lifted 2 inches would be ideal. Because then the front would come up 3 inches and I could run that dirt kings, camburg etc etc etc mid travel or long travel
I don’t want as much lift as I want added travel and better shocks.
otherwise it’s just going to be an Arnott replacement .... or sell...
I wish they had a spring for the 4 inch kit.
Then I could run a silverado long travel kit from someone one, and then their rear with a proper shock.
or really to be honest if I could find a rear coil that only lifted 2 inches would be ideal. Because then the front would come up 3 inches and I could run that dirt kings, camburg etc etc etc mid travel or long travel
I don’t want as much lift as I want added travel and better shocks.
otherwise it’s just going to be an Arnott replacement .... or sell...
Every lift instruction I have read -which is a bunch lately- the rear suspension they are adding bump stop extensions. So you're getting more height but probably no more travel in the rear, whether it's a spacer or a new coil.
In a shorter lift, the RC 5" and Skyjacker 4" use new rear coils instead of spacers. But per above, I don't think that gives any more travel.
In your position I'd talk to the people doing those mid / long travel front kits and feel them out on their thoughts for the rear. As far as I have been able to determine, you're on your own to build a hybrid lift for your wants. I have not found any available off the shelf kit for the SUV's that offers more travel.
I think it's feasible to use a 4" coil in the rear; measure your upper and lower desired axle positions, and get a shock for that length of travel. Then modify the bumpstop if necessary with some custom fabrication. I have done that on Jeeps. The fly in that ointment is the rubber bushings in the control arms don't respond well to increased angles of articulation and wear prematurely. BTDT. Fabtech offers a 6" kit with their own rear control arms. Maybe they have joints designed to eliminate that weakness, I don't know the construction details.
Good luck on your exploration. Keep us posted on what you find out. I'd like to have a four wheel mid travel installation myself.
In a shorter lift, the RC 5" and Skyjacker 4" use new rear coils instead of spacers. But per above, I don't think that gives any more travel.
In your position I'd talk to the people doing those mid / long travel front kits and feel them out on their thoughts for the rear. As far as I have been able to determine, you're on your own to build a hybrid lift for your wants. I have not found any available off the shelf kit for the SUV's that offers more travel.
I think it's feasible to use a 4" coil in the rear; measure your upper and lower desired axle positions, and get a shock for that length of travel. Then modify the bumpstop if necessary with some custom fabrication. I have done that on Jeeps. The fly in that ointment is the rubber bushings in the control arms don't respond well to increased angles of articulation and wear prematurely. BTDT. Fabtech offers a 6" kit with their own rear control arms. Maybe they have joints designed to eliminate that weakness, I don't know the construction details.
Good luck on your exploration. Keep us posted on what you find out. I'd like to have a four wheel mid travel installation myself.
I know the front we can run a silverado kit.
for the rear best I’ve found is an 8 inch travel shock, adjustable bar, and a set of the z71 suburban/ border patrol springs. Those are “supposed” to lift the Denali XL one inch.
the oem rear mrc shock is 7.xx inch travel shock. I have the open and closed measurements somewhere.
but I don’t have the fronts.
technically one could pull the rear suspension apart, and measure the bushings to be replaced with a stiffer poly or even go Derlin.
a lot of measuring and pressing. But any adjustable pan hard bar should come with stiffer bearings or a heim and misalignment option, I’d wager.
but if I could lift the rear an inch or two.... be able to run a proper 2.5 or 3x 8 inch shock out back with a comp adjuster...
and then in the front, a 3.0 coilover with an Internal bypass...
I think it would survive any heat these big mamma jamma’s could generate on washboards etc.
(I just watched a test of a Toyota Tacoma with the upgraded bilsteins pop... yes pop both rear and one front shock on a basic dirt road. They were not even going very fast.)
My fear is a 2.5 will handle it, but need more frequent rebuilds, vs a 3.0 which will out ability the truck. Set and forget.
plus the 3.0’s all come with larger shafts (I just went through an issue bending shock shafts, front and rear on an ifs truck that weighs 5100lbs filled)
for the rear best I’ve found is an 8 inch travel shock, adjustable bar, and a set of the z71 suburban/ border patrol springs. Those are “supposed” to lift the Denali XL one inch.
the oem rear mrc shock is 7.xx inch travel shock. I have the open and closed measurements somewhere.
but I don’t have the fronts.
technically one could pull the rear suspension apart, and measure the bushings to be replaced with a stiffer poly or even go Derlin.
a lot of measuring and pressing. But any adjustable pan hard bar should come with stiffer bearings or a heim and misalignment option, I’d wager.
but if I could lift the rear an inch or two.... be able to run a proper 2.5 or 3x 8 inch shock out back with a comp adjuster...
and then in the front, a 3.0 coilover with an Internal bypass...
I think it would survive any heat these big mamma jamma’s could generate on washboards etc.
(I just watched a test of a Toyota Tacoma with the upgraded bilsteins pop... yes pop both rear and one front shock on a basic dirt road. They were not even going very fast.)
My fear is a 2.5 will handle it, but need more frequent rebuilds, vs a 3.0 which will out ability the truck. Set and forget.
plus the 3.0’s all come with larger shafts (I just went through an issue bending shock shafts, front and rear on an ifs truck that weighs 5100lbs filled)
If the rear travel is 7-8”, that’s significantly more than the front I’m pretty sure. You might end up with a well balanced system doing the mid travel front with a good coilover and the best external reservoir shock you can find for the rear. With just enough rear lift to level it with the front height.
Are the mid & long travel kits for the Silverado making any travel specs available?
Are the mid & long travel kits for the Silverado making any travel specs available?
STORMIN08
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1. it seems like no matter the shock diameter...you desire to USE this rig will be beyond any shock capability with a remote resi, unless going to a 3" or larger ( then weight may even over come the 3" resi)
now, most large retail name lifts will only increase height, not travel...Carli being about the only exception. ( i say that as Camburg, Icon, and others are more limited as costs are far higher ( quality usually is too, but most wont USE the rig)
as stated, the 4 and 6" KITS are generally the same hard parts, and in this case...the 4" probably offers better ride and it KEEPS factory angles and spacing to the factory bump stops. most GM vehicle suffer from levels as the suspension is right at the stop interface.
do i think your set up is out of this world, NO, but it may need some fab work on your end to get what you want.
in my case, i want 4" for simple appearance, but i want it to work ! i will probably fab my own rear arms and T-bar. i would also prefer a replacement rear coil with internal airbag when needed. front will be standard 4" hard drop...mine is simply a driver but i dont like having issues.
my 05, 08 and 02 Ram 2500's have all benefited from either Carli or Thuren lifts...!!!!
now, most large retail name lifts will only increase height, not travel...Carli being about the only exception. ( i say that as Camburg, Icon, and others are more limited as costs are far higher ( quality usually is too, but most wont USE the rig)
as stated, the 4 and 6" KITS are generally the same hard parts, and in this case...the 4" probably offers better ride and it KEEPS factory angles and spacing to the factory bump stops. most GM vehicle suffer from levels as the suspension is right at the stop interface.
do i think your set up is out of this world, NO, but it may need some fab work on your end to get what you want.
in my case, i want 4" for simple appearance, but i want it to work ! i will probably fab my own rear arms and T-bar. i would also prefer a replacement rear coil with internal airbag when needed. front will be standard 4" hard drop...mine is simply a driver but i dont like having issues.
my 05, 08 and 02 Ram 2500's have all benefited from either Carli or Thuren lifts...!!!!
Yea. Historically I’ve used mid travel and long travel set ups. All giving longer travel and a better shock as the focus.
It’s just no one has a solution for our rear and then I saw bds had a spring for the rear. but... sooo tall.
king has a bolt in mid travel, or rather stock travel kit, stock
Height, which is something for me to consider. But I wouldn’t mind lifting the rear an inch or two in order to run a proper length shock back there and get close to 10
Inches of full droop travel, and a little more at a frame twister.
For the front, keeping it an inch under what ever the rear ended up is fine. Or even level.
but yea, the idea was a Firestone bag in the spring to keep the air leveling.
It’s just no one has a solution for our rear and then I saw bds had a spring for the rear. but... sooo tall.
king has a bolt in mid travel, or rather stock travel kit, stock
Height, which is something for me to consider. But I wouldn’t mind lifting the rear an inch or two in order to run a proper length shock back there and get close to 10
Inches of full droop travel, and a little more at a frame twister.
For the front, keeping it an inch under what ever the rear ended up is fine. Or even level.
but yea, the idea was a Firestone bag in the spring to keep the air leveling.
VegasDevin
TYF Newbie
Looking into long travel for my 07 yukon xl as well. Swapping the front clip to a sierra front clip with fiberglass flares. Probably gonna end up running camburg lt in the front but this rear suspension has me tripped up until i can get her jacked and measure full droop. I was thinking i could run coil springs with travel length that maxes out that droop. I think full droop is around 10 inches and is limited by the control arms and panhard bar. Spohn makes adjustable units for all of those parts which may come into play, or i may have to fab my own. I was looking at foa springs and shocks because their site simplicity. I was thinking of 2.5 or 3 inch shocks with around 12-14 inches of travel, then stacking say 14 inches of 150lb spring and 10 inches of 175. This is a work in progress so suspension will come probably in the next year or 2 and will consist of a couple consultations but definitely looking forward to turning this thing into something unique
STORMIN08
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as serious as you 2 sound...why would you not look to long arm or swing arm the rear. we all know the down sides in ride and performance of short arms.
i am looking to possibly have a set of coils made to my liking for the rear. not going to any extreme length, i just dont care for spacers.
i am looking to possibly have a set of coils made to my liking for the rear. not going to any extreme length, i just dont care for spacers.
Long Links in the rear is not realistic and at the very least would require holes into the cab for the shocks.
long arm fronts require fiberglass. A decent mid travel fit under stock width fenders.
but do tell about this rear coil spring your doing????!!!!
long arm fronts require fiberglass. A decent mid travel fit under stock width fenders.
but do tell about this rear coil spring your doing????!!!!
VegasDevin
TYF Newbie
My apology i meant coilover. But yes i think that by running a longer shock and longer spring you should theoretically be able to squeeze some lift and travel out of it but this is all theoretical until other parts of the build are complete. But yes i think by running a coil over shock in the rear you could fit a longer spring. People lift their rears 3-4 inches all the time with spacers. Doesnt that mean you should theoretically be able to do the same thing with a longer softer spring which would also allow much more movement. Paired with a proper shock i think that should all equate to a much better ride for bombing these desert trails. Once i get into it and determine max travel with stock control arms/panhard bar i might look into changing those parts up to see if i can get an extra couple inches at least. The panhard bar is one of my biggest concerns due to the way it moves under full droop conditions.
VegasDevin
TYF Newbie
You can get cantilever kits for a silverado which sounds like the way to go but our frames are different so the silverado kits wont work. And my initial thought was to run long arms too but my concern is axle stability. Currently we have a panhard bar which holds our axle from lateral movement and that sounds like itll be the most limiting component. So to get rid of that would require a 4 link or cantilever in the rear but that would be a competely custom job.
I’ve been doing a ton of testing work lately with spring length and spring rate for holding up vehicles... (prerunner projects) and surprisingly enough you need a stiffer spring when you go shorter than longer. With a longer spring you can actually go softer.
eg: 14x650 vs a 16x550 or 16x500
the 500/550 spring gets you the same ride height, with less preload and a smoother ride.
And you have a lot more flexibility with preload so you can raise the vehicle and still have a softer smoother ride.
Im hoping that this new spring is a bit stiffer (air level package springs are super soft) and a bit taller to give 2 inches of lift.
3 inches lift in front and 2 in the back would be ideal for handling. Stock wheel wells means you can only go so big with tires
eg: 14x650 vs a 16x550 or 16x500
the 500/550 spring gets you the same ride height, with less preload and a smoother ride.
And you have a lot more flexibility with preload so you can raise the vehicle and still have a softer smoother ride.
Im hoping that this new spring is a bit stiffer (air level package springs are super soft) and a bit taller to give 2 inches of lift.
3 inches lift in front and 2 in the back would be ideal for handling. Stock wheel wells means you can only go so big with tires
VegasDevin
TYF Newbie
That is in fact exactly what im saying. Longer softer springs equals more free movement and with some preload you could set yourself with a little bit of lift while still allowing the axle to run into full bump hopefully. With some adjustable shocks thatd be the bees knees.
As far as the wheel wells, i already did the norcal mod(opened up a whole inch and a half) to the front and cut my bumper. Currently im on 33s but with those mods and a 3 inch level in the front im clear for 35s. However due to a front end accident the other day ill be replacing my front clip for a sierra front clip with fiberglass fenders. Once thats done, ill be doing my exhaust, then gearing up to 4.88s, and then working on suspension. I plan on running 37s, and so ill be modding the rear wheel opening the same way to make room
VegasDevin
TYF Newbie
i think the moog 81069(heavy duty) springs have a 230lb spring rate and are approximately 18 inches long when free(if my research is correct). This means they should offer about 9 or so inches of travel. So if i went with a coilover spring thats around 24 -26 inches free and with between 150-200lb spring rate, with an adjustable shock that allows 12-14 inches of travel, that should basically allow the suspension to travel freely within its physical constraints (panhard bar and control arms).
Thinking a long arm would be great in the rear but my concern would be lateral axle stability
Thinking a long arm would be great in the rear but my concern would be lateral axle stability
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