I want mine to grow up looking like this lolGot profile rgb Bluetooth demon eyes installed View attachment 258785View attachment 258784 View attachment 258783View attachment 258782
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I want mine to grow up looking like this lolGot profile rgb Bluetooth demon eyes installed View attachment 258785View attachment 258784 View attachment 258783View attachment 258782
I did not notice a huge difference in day to day driving when I did mine. I have hydroboost. My existing brakes were in good shape though outside of pads being a little worn down.I noticed a day and night difference when I did the NNBS brake upgrade, it could also be that I have the hydro boost set it.
Agree. I definitely feel a bigger difference in any hard braking, or braking from higher speeds. I also changed all fluid and all stainless lines -other than the problematic center rear line.. [emoji35]I did not notice a huge difference in day to day driving when I did mine. I have hydroboost. My existing brakes were in good shape though outside of pads being a little worn down.
I think a lot of guys that notice a big difference had issues with their existing setup such as old fluid in the lines or some such deal.
That being said when you are really working the brakes there is a difference. Less fade, and more bite.
Thanks man! Much appreciated! I can post 9 in one post. Then if you go edit it, you can add up to 9 more. Not sure why you’re limited to 5. Weak. I use Tapatalk for my phone 99.9% of the time. Rarely on the PC to peruse the forum.That truck is super clean! Um, how did you get more than 5 pictures in a single post?
Thanks man! Much appreciated! I can post 9 in one post. Then if you go edit it, you can add up to 9 more. Not sure why you’re limited to 5. Weak. I use Tapatalk for my phone 99.9% of the time. Rarely on the PC to peruse the forum.
you might try grounding both batteries to the one post that feeds to the RVC module, that may or may not help but mine seems to work better that way, I had a 7' ground cable made and ran it from one battery to the other along the firewall 7' was the exact length needed.Replaced both batteries today. I had added the TP2 factory dual battery configuration several years ago, partly because it has always gone through batteries pretty fast, and partly because I wanted the second battery for the inverter. It started fine leaving work yesterday, but I stopped at the store on the way home and it wouldn't start when I came back out. The isolation solenoid is supposed to connect the aux battery when you turn the key on, but only if the main battery has enough juice to energize it. I had made a special harness to plug into the solenoid for that scenario so I could jump start myself, but that didn't work either, so I had to get it jump started from another car. After I got home, I put my meter on both batteries, 8 volts on the main and 4 volts on the aux. With the engine on I was reading around 13-14 volts, so pretty sure the alternator is fine. Anyway, I put in two new AGM's, hopefully they will handle the Tahoe's electrical system better than the standard lead-acids I've had in the past.
I guess the aux battery had gone bad recently, and I just hadn't noticed any problems, but when the main died too I was stuck without the ability to jump start myself. I have put up with the variable voltage regulator control cooking batteries since it was new. I think I heard that there was a software fix for this on the GMT900s, but I have never seen one for the GMT800s.
For those who don't believe without pics...
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I think a lot of guys that notice a big difference had issues with their existing setup such as old fluid in the lines or some such deal.
I have SS lines front and rear, but didn't get to the middle lines yet...Agree. I definitely feel a bigger difference in any hard braking, or braking from higher speeds. I also changed all fluid and all stainless lines -other than the problematic center rear line.. [emoji35]
ETA: For clarity: I also replaced the rotors and pads with the Powerstop Z36 kit. I liked the Powerstop ceramic/ carbon pads I tried on my stock brakes, so went with those and their rotors.
Thanks, I'll check into that. I set mine up to factory specs, if I remember correctly the aux battery ground was to the back of the block. I seem to remember it being a real ***** to get to.you might try grounding both batteries to the one post that feeds to the RVC module, that may or may not help but mine seems to work better that way, I had a 7' ground cable made and ran it from one battery to the other along the firewall 7' was the exact length needed.
When I bought my Mechman alternator the instructions said to wire it up that way but I mostly ignored that until I started having battery issue's but my batteries were both bad also when I replaced them I wired it up so both grounds are on the RVC seems to work better but no telling if it was just the batteries or not.Thanks, I'll check into that. I set mine up to factory specs, if I remember correctly the aux battery ground was to the back of the block. I seem to remember it being a real ***** to get to.
I just drained about a bottle cap full out of mine, it was about 2 weeks worth of driving and seemed to be all oil. Really impressed with this can.
Shampooed the catpets last night. Been wanting to do it since I bought it. Spilling my Arnold Palmer forced my hand. Re activated a smell of hot garbage from the previous owner. Took me about 3 hours to do all three rows and the cargo area. Love the febreeze smell now
I have a small rug I bought at Home Depot that I throw in the back. It covers the 3rd row brackets and looks better, plus it was cheap.Not 100% perfect far and away better from before. And it will be fine for a family of 4 cruiser
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You’re saying it’s bouncing without your foot on it? I doubt it bounces enough to activate the switch if it does. Before you go trying to troubleshoot a problem, you should make sure there IS a problem. Have somebody follow you as you drive around so they can tell you if it’s actually happening. Then go from there.Something I’ve been meaning to ask the group for a while. Colorado roads are crap. Cracks everywhere, and constant potholes due to the freeze / thaw of our weather. One thing that drives me crazy is the brake pedal bounces sometimes when going over these bumps. It’s not something I can just slow down for, they’re everywhere. So I know at certain times, my brake lights are flashing for a quick second, due to this bouncing pedal. Does anyone have a solution.?