Wife overheated the 2005. . .

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strad

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5.3 Engine is about 5 months old. Professionally installed Jasper engine with a warranty. I do not know how long she ran it hot, because she wasn't watching the temperature gauge. She did say it was pegged when she finally looked at it. I do know that when I arrived, the drain plug was missing from the radiator. We had it towed to our house because the shop where the engine was installed is closed for the weekend.

It is showing a P1258 code. It had no codes before this happened. I know this code is an overheat code and puts the engine into survival mode.

I don't plant to touch it before the mechanic who installed the engine looks at it. I did start it for about 20 seconds to get it into my driveway after the tow truck dropped it in the street. It started normally and ran fine.

But how screwed am I likely to be?
 

wjburken

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5.3 Engine is about 5 months old. Professionally installed Jasper engine with a warranty. I do not know how long she ran it hot, because she wasn't watching the temperature gauge. She did say it was pegged when she finally looked at it. I do know that when I arrived, the drain plug was missing from the radiator. We had it towed to our house because the shop where the engine was installed is closed for the weekend.

It is showing a P1258 code. It had no codes before this happened. I know this code is an overheat code and puts the engine into survival mode.

I don't plant to touch it before the mechanic who installed the engine looks at it. I did start it for about 20 seconds to get it into my driveway after the tow truck dropped it in the street. It started normally and ran fine.

But how screwed am I likely to be?
If when you drove into the drive way, it seemed fine, you have an 80% chance of being ok.
 

OR VietVet

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If you are not seeing white smoke out the tailpipe when you refill and run the engine, then is likely ok. But you need to find the source of the problem if the radiator drain plug was not it. If it hold a pressure test after full drive it and watch carefully for that gauge to act up. You should also replace the thermostat anytime you overheat an engine. Also, Jasper typically puts heat sensitive tabs on that engine that will show if it got hot enough to melt them and that is their way of covering their asses for a problem like this, if you try for a warranty claim of any kind. Good luck with everything.
 
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strad

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Update: Radiator side tank has a three inch long crack on the left side below the upper radiator hose connection. There was some coolant left in the radiator. Not sure about the engine. So I'm going to do the obvious thing and replace the radiator since I got it out in about a half hour. Helps that I previously did a radiator on another GMT 800 with a crack in the same location. The drain plug was not missing after all. But the truth still is that it did get overheated. So fingers crossed.
 

Doubeleive

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eh if it only overheated once you'll be fine, replace the radiator, fill it up drive it away. if it really overheated much she would have felt a noticeable loss of power, I think in 03+ they made them so they will shut down before any real damage happens or it will start blowing bells and whistles at you.
 

Joseph Garcia

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If you have not changed all of the coolant hoses (radiator, heater, overflow) within the past few years, change them all now, while you are replacing the radiator. If you have a rear heater/AC unit, change the heater hose splitting plastic Tees near the firewall on the passenger's side.

I recently blew out a heater hose and just about emptied my motor of coolant. Fortunately, after replacing all of the hoses and Tees, my motor still runs fine.
 

iamdub

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If you have not changed all of the coolant hoses (radiator, heater, overflow) within the past few years, change them all now, while you are replacing the radiator. If you have a rear heater/AC unit, change the heater hose splitting plastic Tees near the firewall on the passenger's side.

I recently blew out a heater hose and just about emptied my motor of coolant. Fortunately, after replacing all of the hoses and Tees, my motor still runs fine.


Good suggestion. Now's the time to replace all of that rather than later and having to refill and burp the system again. Speaking of, I find it cheaper to get the coolant concentrate and a few gallons of distilled water from WalMart than to buy the pre-mixed bottles.
 

iamdub

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You do what you are going to do but I still say the thermostat should be done at the same time. IMO

What's the purpose of replacing the thermostat after an overheating? I know the fail-safe ones lock open after they've been heated. Even then, they can simply be unlocked and put back into service. But, I've never heard of this being recommended on a regular t-stat. Just curious if it's a PM thing or if there's more to it. I like to learn the science behind things.
 

OR VietVet

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The thermostat is subjected to hot and cold gobs of times in it's lifetime. That is under normal engine temp operations. Then you get to more extreme temps in a situation like has been described. It is what controls the flow of the coolant that is being pushed by the water pump. It is inexpensive and easy to do. If you are recommending hoses that at this time appear to be holding pressure then why not do that thermostat that just operated under a more extreme condition. I call it "insurance". To me it makes perfect sense. Even if it is a "fail-safe" one, why take a chance on something so important to the system? We recommend numerous parts replacements on many systems while we "have things apart" all the time. Why not here?
 

iamdub

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The thermostat is subjected to hot and cold gobs of times in it's lifetime. That is under normal engine temp operations. Then you get to more extreme temps in a situation like has been described. It is what controls the flow of the coolant that is being pushed by the water pump. It is inexpensive and easy to do. If you are recommending hoses that at this time appear to be holding pressure then why not do that thermostat that just operated under a more extreme condition. I call it "insurance". To me it makes perfect sense. Even if it is a "fail-safe" one, why take a chance on something so important to the system? We recommend numerous parts replacements on many systems while we "have things apart" all the time. Why not here?

So, a PM thing. I'm tracking, and agree. Was curious if there was a scientific/mechanical reasoning, like maybe the spring was designed to soften above the t-stat's rated temperature or something. I'm always for cheap insurance.
 

Rocket Man

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I would replace the radiator and like @Joseph Garcia said, replace all the hoses at the same time because they’re the most likely thing to fail next. Fill it up, start it up and see how it is. You should be fine. The thermostat doesn’t need replacing unless you really want to.
 

OR VietVet

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Just like @Galante saying my recommendation of posting vehicle info in a signature is not needed, I could have bet my next paycheck that @Rocket Man would say what he said about the thermostat. After all, the overheated rig is not his so why even make a recommendation about another members rig. Comical at best and an iffy statement about someone else's rig.

It is my recommendation only. Not a "must do". Any member here has a right to service their rigs as they see fit. An opinion was asked and I gave it based off of experience in shops over many years and the fact that the thermostat is a mechanical piece of equipment that cycles literally thousands, if not more times, over it's lifespan. In no way can replacing the thermostat be a bad or wasted endeavor.

By the way, I would not worry about @Rocket Man being hurt by what I have just said. He messaged me yesterday and said that because we don't agree on some things and he hates me recommending info in the signature and that he hates me asking opinions of what a part is worth or the next rig I am looking at, he is now "ignoring me". Kind of a safe room so to speak. If it gives him peace, it is worth it. Namaste.......
 
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OR VietVet

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So, a PM thing. I'm tracking, and agree. Was curious if there was a scientific/mechanical reasoning, like maybe the spring was designed to soften above the t-stat's rated temperature or something. I'm always for cheap insurance.

It's a covering all the bases type of thing. Replacing hoses at this time is the same thing. You get back to a "safe base line" with doing these things. Plus, I like spending other people's money.
Thanks for the question so I could state why I recommended the thermostat. Work smart, not hard. Hard is going back in to replace something that would be an easy replacement at this time.
 
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strad

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Another update: I got it put back together. Napa didn't have the non-oil cooler radiator in stock, so if this thing survives this escapade, I have the option of installing the oil cooler lines in the future I guess. Radiator is ready for it lol. I filled it up with coolant, fixed trans fluid leaks from the loose fittings (dumbasses at the factory didn't tighten the fittings), and drove it to the gas station and back -- up to operating temperature, stayed steady, no white smoke. I did add the trans fluid that went missing because of the loose fittings too. I didn't lose much.

So now we wait until it cools off, and then check the fluid level. And keep doing that for a few days until we know if we got lucky or not.

Edit: I ended up not replacing the thermostat. I bought one, but when I took the housing apart it was not correct for this application. I wanted to get on with the program at that point and NOT drive to the store again. But it worked fine this time around.
 

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