Yet another no heat/ac thread.... I know, I know.

[Doubeleive]

Is that expensive?? I figured it wasn't bad assuming this dorman brand one goes for twice that at the parts store. Admittedly I'm not up to ***** on the going rates though. What is a going rate for a used OEM digital controller?

$75 is a good price just make sure you get one from the same vehicle, otherwise it may need to be reprogrammed for your truck, for instance one from a tahoe may fit and look the same but it will be looking for sensors you don't have.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Since it is digital, I looked up again at RA for you. Does it look like this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=950661&cc=1415551&jsn=905&jsn=905

Goes for $139.79. Found it at Amazon for $350 plus.

Thought it was just a module.

 

[swathdiver]

I replaced the one under the kick panel on the passenger side. I changed it out with part # 89018365.

Duramax is an 01 Lb7. It's my pride and joy.

It's the wrong one, should be 89018375, 65 is for the Air Inlet Valve.

I asked about the Duramax to see which generation it is, you're an excellent candidate to own a Tech-2 and remove the guesswork from your repairs.

 

[Diesel6point6]

Since it is digital, I looked up again at RA for you. Does it look like this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=950661&cc=1415551&jsn=905&jsn=905

Goes for $139.79. Found it at Amazon for $350 plus.

Negative, that's the one for the 2nd row that mounts to the back of the console. I attached an image of what mine looks like for the front.

ETA: it posted at the bottom of my reply. I'm still on mobile so formatting is a bit tricky haha.

View attachment 256874 View attachment 256876

Thanks for the photos man, looks like we do have different ones. I do wish I had those though, they seem a lot less prone to failure. As to your comment on the junkyard module, I hear you on that, and normally I am the same way. However, unfortunately I'm finding it impossible to find an Acdelco for sale (new) so my assumption is it's no longer produced so i have little choice unless I want to go Dorman or another aftermarket brand.

$75 is a good price just make sure you get one from the same vehicle, otherwise it may need to be reprogrammed for your truck, for instance one from a tahoe may fit and look the same but it will be looking for sensors you don't have.

Thank you for confirming that! I was curious on the programming of it all so that's very helpful to know.

 

[Diesel6point6]

.

View attachment 256874 View attachment 256876

Also, after looking at this closer, this part # seems to be for the module alone, I'm in need of the whole controller unit. I know I'm probably butchering the actual name for these parts, sorry for the confusion if i am.

 

[Doubeleive]

Also, after looking at this closer, this part # seems to be for the module alone, I'm in need of the whole controller unit. I know I'm probably butchering the actual name for these parts, sorry for the confusion if i am.

If you post up the last 8 of your vin @915_Tahoe can tell you the specific part number you need.

 

[Diesel6point6]

It's the wrong one, should be 89018375, 65 is for the Air Inlet Valve.

I asked about the Duramax to see which generation it is, you're an excellent candidate to own a Tech-2 and remove the guesswork from your repairs.

Well son of a gun, that certainly makes things a bit more interesting. The 65 is more expensive too dang it!! I remember seeing the 75 and wondering. Well, I'll double check to see which one I got and if so, I'll return the 65. Thank you for that clarification, why do they have to make so many identical looking actuators!!

You know it's funny you say that. In all the research I've done on this site, I've seen the tech 2 mentioned countless times. What's interesting is you rarely see that mentioned on the Dmax forum so I never gave it much thought. Although that's probably because most of those guys have EFI live and I believe you can do similar stuff with that as a tech 2? Nevertheless, this Yukon actually makes 3 GM vehicles, I also have an S10 so you are very right in that a tech 2 would probably be a wise investment.

 

[Diesel6point6]

If you post up the last 8 of your vin @915_Tahoe can tell you the specific part number you need.

That would be great!

@915_Tahoe last 8 is 3J333442

Just to clarify, im in need of the whole hvac controller unit to replace this aftermarket knockoff one. I'm not seeing any OEM for sale (new) so I'm probably going to need to find used. If that's the case, would need to know what years would be a direct donor. Thank you!

 

[swathdiver]

Well son of a gun, that certainly makes things a bit more interesting. The 65 is more expensive too dang it!! I remember seeing the 75 and wondering. Well, I'll double check to see which one I got and if so, I'll return the 65. Thank you for that clarification, why do they have to make so many identical looking actuators!!

You know it's funny you say that. In all the research I've done on this site, I've seen the tech 2 mentioned countless times. What's interesting is you rarely see that mentioned on the Dmax forum so I never gave it much thought. Although that's probably because most of those guys have EFI live and I believe you can do similar stuff with that as a tech 2? Nevertheless, this Yukon actually makes 3 GM vehicles, I also have an S10 so you are very right in that a tech 2 would probably be a wise investment.

I did it too after much research still got it wrong! The Tech-2 can read BCM codes, it will tell you which actuator is bad and why which EFI Live cannot do. The look the same on the outside but are opposites internally, to move the doors the other way while using the same parts flipped around; or something like that.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Negative, that's the one for the 2nd row that mounts to the back of the console. I attached an image of what mine looks like for the front.

ETA: it posted at the bottom of my reply. I'm still on mobile so formatting is a bit tricky haha.



Thanks for the photos man, looks like we do have different ones. I do wish I had those though, they seem a lot less prone to failure. As to your comment on the junkyard module, I hear you on that, and normally I am the same way. However, unfortunately I'm finding it impossible to find an Acdelco for sale (new) so my assumption is it's no longer produced so i have little choice unless I want to go Dorman or another aftermarket brand.


Thank you for confirming that! I was curious on the programming of it all so that's very helpful to know.

View attachment 256878

No problem I figured it out when I saw the pics of that control panel. Ya 75.00 is reasonable your lucky they even have one available.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Since it is digital, I looked up again at RA for you. Does it look like this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=950661&cc=1415551&jsn=905&jsn=905

Goes for $139.79. Found it at Amazon for $350 plus.

My Yukon has a hole in the back of the center console where that little control panel is suppose to be. You solved the mystery of what goes in that spot

 

[jwth]

Ok guys, I know you've seen this a million times but trust me I've researched the hell out of this and I've hit a wall.

03 Yukon Denali. I had the typical no temp change on the driver's side, in my case the AC worked fine but heat did not. Ok for the time being but it's about to get cold in CO so I need to get this figured out. So off to the forums I went and I saw thread after thread of this and the general consensus was the blend door actuator on the passenger side. Easy enough. Replaced that and it still didn't operate, it just cranks itself to the cold side just like the OEM one did and gets stuck there. After recalibration (pulling fuse, on/off, jump on one foot, spin 3, not 4, 3 times, yada yada) I still experienced the same symptoms but now the air will only blow on floor mode....great now I've got two actuators bad!! So yesterday I do this process a few more times along with some profanity and eventually I get everything to work as it should. Both temperature and mode are operating, such a relief! Nah, that'd be too easy!! I get in this morning and it's back to blowing cold on the driver's side again. WTF!! And not to mention the back doesn't have heat either but I haven't even dug into that yet but after this experience I'm sure looking forward to it.

Any thoughts on what could be going on? I've verified the blend door functions as it should. I know the core is working because when I manually turn the blend door it works as it should (both hot and AC work on both sides) and both hoses get super hot. Coolant level is topped off. One thing I find VERY interesting is in every recalibration video/write-up I see it says after pulling the fuse the digital screen will default to 74, well mine defaults to 75 so I'm not sure what's going on there.

So idk if my system is just cursed or what but my head is spinning. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I just bought the vehicle a few weeks ago so I'm blind as far as what has been worked on or not.

Ok I know this most likley wont help but I had the same problem on my 03 yukon and finally reprogrammed the system with my tech2 and tis2000.
Since then I have had no issues.

 

[Diesel6point6]

Ok I know this most likley wont help but I had the same problem on my 03 yukon and finally reprogrammed the system with my tech2 and tis2000.
Since then I have had no issues.

Anything helps, I appreciate any and all input! If putting a new module in there doesn't fix it I will probably resort to finding someone with a tech 2 to take a look. Man I've been reading lots of reviews on this Dorman brand one that's in there now and it's bad review after bad review, with some having the same symptoms I'm having. I may be giving myself false hope, but I've just about convinced myself that's the issue. At least I'll have the peace of mind even if it doesn't fix it and I can comfortably move on to the next step.

 

[brichter]

I asked about the Duramax to see which generation it is, you're an excellent candidate to own a Tech-2 and remove the guesswork from your repairs.

Are you selling one?

 

[OR VietVet]

Are you selling one?

They are on ebay all the time.

 

[swathdiver]

Are you selling one?

Nope, just suggesting that it is the most important tool you can own for working on these things.

 

[jwth]

Many modules for replacement need to be programmed or reprogrammed to get them to work with the new vehicle they are being installed in. Different vehicle, different controls and trim styles or packages. Not uncommon to get a "dumb" module that would fit several models with different controls.

 

[brichter]

Was looking for one, wound up with the vxdiag nano USB adapter and installed the software on a laptop I had laying around. Was going to get a Tech2, but this setup does GDS2 also.

 

[PNWYukon]

My 2005 Tahoe with Rear A/C stopped blowing hot air. I found a dude on youtube that showed how to diagnose that it was the controller module, not the blend door.

You jump a couple wires and can make the blend door move and it proves the controller module is dead. For the interim I jumped the blend door to open, then unplugged it. I have hot air 24/7 coming out of the rear system. I think that module is around $80-90 for the rear.

 

[Diesel6point6]

Ok guys, I finally have this issue solved! Nothing drives me more insane than doing my due diligence and searching threads, only to find 80% of them don't take the time to update what the issue was, so here's mine.

I first started with getting the correct part # actuator in there. With that, it was still acting very random. Would work one day and wouldn't the next so I was even more sure it had to be the control unit.

Although it took longer than I would've liked, I finally acquired a new oem HVAC control unit from the junkyard. I plugged that bad boy in with my fingers crossed, first with the original actuator that came with the vehicle just out of curiosity. That did not work. Next I put in the new actuator and we had lift off!! I can't tell you how relieved I was, this issue has been driving me insane.

So, all in all I had both an actuator problem as well as the control unit. If anybody reading this down the line has a Dorman brand aftermarket control unit, ditch it. Total junk that caused way more issues than it should have.

Thanks again for all that chimed in with advice. Now on to figuring out the rear heat