I followed this video, everything was the same except the injector harness is a different design, the only thing that threw me off was the 44inch/89inch lbs which is like 3.xx/7.*** ft lbs
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
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DenaliReyes
Full Access Member
added more 3m reflective onto the lower bumper grill this time. I need a heatgun to avoid the wrinkles next time. 
and the doors, these were a *****. I def need a heat gun.What you think?
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
I did the same thing when I did mine and have not had any issues. Its been at least 4 years since I did mine.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Took the Hoe out of commission for a few days to do a few things and drove the Denali, as there was no rain in sight. 
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Last edited:
05Single
afraid of the dark
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Nice , got my heat grin at Home Depot for $30 . Use the crap out of it too , think it’s a Wagner iirc
I’ve had my Wagner heat gun for about 15 years. Very useful tool.
rgosart
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I'm gonna pass. Thanks though!
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Took the Hoe out of commission for a few days to do a few things and drove the Denali, as there was no rain in sight.
Out with the old, in with the new. Axle bearings and seals. One piece dust shields. I hit the mounting assemblies with the wire wheel and some high heat black i had laying around. Lookin fresh.
View attachment 255752
Axles back in and all new R1 Concepts parking brake shoes and hardware. I checked the adjustment when all was said and done. It holds the truck, but could be a little tighter. I will adjust it a little during the upcoming phase 2 of the project.
View attachment 255753
R1 Concepts drilled and slotted Geomet rotors with their Optimum OEP pads. Phase 2 will be new calipers (including nnbs for the front) that are in the garage awaiting POR15 red paint along with Goodridge ss lines.
View attachment 255750
Also indulged in a diff cover with drain and fill plugs. I think Yukon Gear provided a good balance between looks, function, quality, and price. I did pull the nameplate and add a little red (for hrspwrs). It's super heavy duty and the inside shape is pretty close the the OE cover, so fluid dynamics should be fine. I used a Lubelocker gasket. I love them. The cover is thick enough that I had to drop the sway bar to get it in. I'm not a huge fan of the Allen fasteners, but with some of them recessed, there's not really much choice.....or is there? See the bottom center?
View attachment 255751
As I was torqueing my final pass (30 ft/lbs.), that bolt spun out on me. At first I thought I had rounded out the Allen (why I hate them). Not the case. Then I thought, "cheap hardware." Nope. I took it out and the threads were full of material. I STRIPPED THE THREADS ON THE DIFF HOUSING! Oh no. So I scrounged around a bit and thought. I drilled it to 5/16, tapped to 3/8-16, installed a 1.5" SS stud, and topped it with a ss nut. Worked great. Looks even greater, imo. I just may do it all the way around when I do a new sway bar one of these days. Used the Delco GL-5 fluid. Gears looked good.
I also did the charcoal canister and vent valve solenoid while i was under there. CEL gone.
Took it to the industrial loop by my shop (gently) and performed the R1 bedding process. Working great. Phase 2 coming soon.
Edit: Forgot that in my anger with the secondary latch mechanism on the spare hoist (which I've already "fixed" once before), I broke, and subsequently, removed the entire assembly. Screw it.
Nice work! I despise the Allen head bolts everybody seems to supply with diff covers. That Yukon cover looks tough, looking forwards to phase 2.
Whew. When you said you torqued the intake manifold bolts to 44 ft lbs I was hoping you didn’t crack it. I think you got lucky more than once on that job!
I also replaced my rear axle bearings and seals and replaced the Dorman 2-piece dust shields with AC Delco 1-piece ones. And did a bit of cleaning under there.
ya as I was tightening it I was thinking hmm these must have been loose before, I was using a 1/4' ratchet and it was feeling pretty snug so I switched to a 3/8's, then my thought switched to hmm maybe the information was wrong as I was twisting then snap, um shit I thought "maybe the bolt just popped out" haha thankfully these have the rubber bushing or yes it might have cracked the intake plastic
Keviebear86
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Has anyone purchased new rocker panels online for their NBS? Mine are getting the typical midwest rust and I want to fix it before it eats away at the entire truck, everything I have found so far is parts for extended cab Silverados and I'm unsure of the fitment. I have a reliable body shop that can do the work, they are allowing me to get parts on my own. Any help would be great! Thanks!
blueinkd
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Wired up a kill switch from the crank fuse as seen on another thread. Cost me less than $20 for supplies and works like a charm. Took about an hour with careful planning and mounting of the switch in the cubby.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Nice. What's that wire you used? Looks like the end has 2 prongs like a fuse.
blueinkd
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Links to what I used on Amazon
Got a basic toggle switch from Ace Hardware and some butt connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWXMHRV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_AofsFbRD6935J
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083R5HWL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_pEfsFb4ZZ1YF3
Got a basic toggle switch from Ace Hardware and some butt connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWXMHRV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_AofsFbRD6935J
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083R5HWL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_pEfsFb4ZZ1YF3
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
blueinkd
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Fuse labeled "crank". Now its on that circuit connected to that switch. Truck won't start without that fuse.
05Single
afraid of the dark
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Cleanest install I’ve seen yet . I’m gonna add this to my winter project list
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