2002 Tahoe..Help with rotational whirring.

[raptorred]

02 Tahoe 5.3L vortec
195K miles

Heres the video of me driving around the block. the sound is most obvious at 30mph or below. Just had front diff and axle arm assemblies replaced. Front hub assemblies replaced a year ago. New tires put on a year ago, noise didnt change. I have not had a tire balance done. The mechanic is telling me he thinks i need a new transfer case, but it sounds like a wheel bearing to me...? Would think that would be the first thing they would have checked also though.
What do you guys think?

Thank you for checking it out. I dont have thousands of dollars to throw it a noise, and I have 2 very young kids I have to drive around. I depend on this car.

Autumn

 

[wjburken]

02 Tahoe 5.3L vortec
195K miles

Heres the video of me driving around the block. the sound is most obvious at 30mph or below. Just had front diff and axle arm assemblies replaced. Front hub assemblies replaced a year ago. New tires put on a year ago, noise didnt change. I have not had a tire balance done. The mechanic is telling me he thinks i need a new transfer case, but it sounds like a wheel bearing to me...? Would think that would be the first thing they would have checked also though.
What do you guys think?

Thank you for checking it out. I dont have thousands of dollars to throw it a noise, and I have 2 very young kids I have to drive around. I depend on this car.

Autumn

Welcome to the forum from Iowa Autumn.

In your video, you only turned right. Does the sound get worse or better when you turn left vs right? My guess is you have a bad wheel bearing. If it is louder when you turn right, it’s likely your drivers side front wheel bearing. If it is louder when you turn left, it is likely your passenger side wheel bearing.

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I agree with Wade. That noise sounds like a wheel bearing or maybe, just maybe, a cv joint. Qualified tech inspection is needed before it leaves you stranded.

 

[raptorred]

Welcome to the forum from Iowa Autumn.

In your video, you only turned right. Does the sound get worse or better when you turn left vs right? My guess is you have a bad wheel bearing. If it is louder when you turn right, it’s likely your drivers side front wheel bearing. If it is louder when you turn left, it is likely your passenger side wheel bearing.

Hi, Yes i guess I do only show right turns, but the noise doesnt change whether I turn left or right. I even tried some back and forth to see if I could hear a change in the noise, but I was hard pressed to find a change in the sound doing that.
Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.
Autumn

 

[Doubeleive]

I know you probably don't want to hear bad news but it sounds like a differential to me.
have a someone chock the front wheels, jack up the rear so it is off the ground, start it up and put it in gear and just let it idle, listen for the noise (this will rule in/out a front wheel hub and confirm if it is the rear diff/pinion, etc)

 

[raptorred]

I know you probably don't want to hear bad news but it sounds like a differential to me.
have a someone chock the front wheels, jack up the rear so it is off the ground, start it up and put it in gear and just let it idle, listen for the noise (this will rule in/out a front wheel hub and confirm if it is the rear diff/pinion, etc)

The front differential was just replaced and the sound didnt change, but I had all my friends telling me they thought it was comming from the rear. The mechanic I took it to has a very good reputation, its a qualified shop, so I would think they would have done all of that, but when they told me it was the transfer case (possibly), I watched quite a few videos of what that sounds like and it doesnt sound like that at all. But I'm no mechanic.
I thank you for your input.

 

[Doubeleive]

The front differential was just replaced and the sound didnt change, but I had all my friends telling me they thought it was comming from the rear. The mechanic I took it to has a very good reputation, its a qualified shop, so I would think they would have done all of that, but when they told me it was the transfer case (possibly), I watched quite a few videos of what that sounds like and it doesnt sound like that at all. But I'm no mechanic.
I thank you for your input.

it could be the transfer case also but you could rule that out by dropping the driveline or listening with a stethoscope type device, generally the transfer cases are pretty tough in these trucks and the rear diff is the weaker link.

 

[Fless]

It's speed-dependent; maybe a driveshaft u-joint? Looks like it has 4wd so there are front and rear propshafts, 4 u-joints total.

If you can drive on wet or gravel roads, does having it in 4HI make any difference in the noise?

 

[Doubeleive]

It's speed-dependent; maybe a driveshaft u-joint? Looks like it has 4wd so there are front and rear propshafts, 4 u-joints total.

If you can drive on wet or gravel roads, does having it in 4HI make any difference in the noise?

that's what makes me suspect the pinion bearing, u-joints could be worn but I have never heard them make noise like that.

 

[Fless]

that's what makes me suspect the pinion bearing, u-joints could be worn but I have never heard them make noise like that.

I've had them squeak when one of the u-joint bearings was dry. This sounds similar to me, just lower in pitch.

EDIT: I attribute the lower pitch to the manliness of the Tahoe vs. the '64 Ford Falcon with squeaky u-joints.

 

[raptorred]

It's speed-dependent; maybe a driveshaft u-joint? Looks like it has 4wd so there are front and rear propshafts, 4 u-joints total.

If you can drive on wet or gravel roads, does having it in 4HI make any difference in the noise?

Oh that is something I did forget to mention, 4LOW does not work. 4HI does work. The sound is there regardless of whether or not its in 4HI or not.
Also I did check the Ujoints myself, they were good.

 

[Doubeleive]

bottom line Autumn is your going to have to someone look at it, we can internet it to death but it needs a hands on to verify, maybe try a different mechanic for a 2nd opinion on the transfer case or possible cause. I would have them check the u-joints & pinion bearing aside from the transfer case.

 

[Doubeleive]

Oh that is something I did forget to mention, 4LOW does not work. 4HI does work. The sound is there regardless of whether or not its in 4HI or not.
Also I did check the Ujoints myself, they were good.

4hi/lo should be in working order if you had the front diff replaced unless the switch or actuator is bad.

 

[raptorred]

that's what makes me suspect the pinion bearing, u-joints could be worn but I have never heard them make noise like that.

So the pinion bearing in the rear diff?

 

[Doubeleive]

So the pinion bearing in the rear diff?

ya I have had them make the exact same noise, I wore mine out 2-3 times on my 300k+ journey with my 00

 

[raptorred]

bottom line Autumn is your going to have to someone look at it, we can internet it to death but it needs a hands on to verify, maybe try a different mechanic for a 2nd opinion on the transfer case or possible cause. I would have them check the u-joints & pinion bearing aside from the transfer case.

Ok, I appreciate the help.
I understand listening to a noise on a video is much different than hearing/seeing it in person.

 

[Doubeleive]

Ok, I appreciate the help.
I understand listening to a noise on a video is much different than hearing/seeing it in person.

very true and another thing is with these trucks sounds can be coming from one place and sound like they are coming from someplace totally different, I don't know how many times it sounded like something in the rear and it was in the front or vica-versa.

 

[Doubeleive]

I even got under it one time and would swear on my life it was coming the transmission and it turned out to be the rear end

 

[OR VietVet]

Like Wes says, noise travels thru metal and can be tricky to pinpoint at times. Plus, with the cavernous space inside these rigs that can change noise deflection and can make you think the noise is one place when in fact it is in another place. Autumn, I am also going to recommend this:


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.


This helps all of us help you and it also takes away the problem of not giving pertinent info about the rig in each post.

 

[raptorred]

Like Wes says, noise travels thru metal and can be tricky to pinpoint at times. Plus, with the cavernous space inside these rigs that can change noise deflection and can make you think the noise is one place when in fact it is in another place. Autumn, I am also going to recommend this:


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.


This helps all of us help you and it also takes away the problem of not giving pertinent info about the rig in each post.

Thank you, I think I upgraded my signature correctly.