2003 Suburban with a ton of miles... CHEAP.

[alaska_guy]

Ok, went through some more of the paperwork today as the original owner had a huge pile of maintenance receipts. Looks like the "vacuum booster pump" was bad but the shop stated this part has since been discontinued and no replacement is available. So this makes sense why I am getting the "service brake booster" message on the dash. Looks like this part used to assist the brake booster in low vacuum scenarios and is no longer in production.

So now my question... After googling online it looks like you can jumper the outside wires to each other and it should make this message disappear. Any other issues with doing that? I can't seem to find the article now that I am looking for it... If someone else knows where the outside jumper wire mod is please post here!

#PIT3568B: Service Brake Booster Message - keywords assist C0136 IPC pedal vacuum - (Jul 27, 2006) Subject:

Service Brake Booster Message Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe 2003-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic 2003-2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2003-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL Condition/Concern: The Service Brake Booster Message is used to notify the driver of a Supplemental Brake Assist (SBA) concern on vehicles equipped with rear disk brakes and a vacuum brake booster. There have been reports of the Service Brake Booster Message being displayed on vehicles which do not use the SBA system. During normal diagnostics, a DTC C0136 may be present in the IPC. This DTC will not be in eSI if working on a 2004-2006 utility vehicle, due to all utilities use a hydroboost brake systems starting in 2004. Also note that starting in 2005; the Silverado and Sierra no longer use the SBA on vehicles with rear drum brakes and vacuum brake booster. This message could be caused by the IPC not being programmed correctly. If the IPC was replaced on a previous unrelated repair and was not SPS programmed then this message will be displayed after the IPC does not receive a valid health signal from the SBA for 5 consecutive ignition cycles. Recommendation/Instructions: To correct this concern, SPS program the IPC. To check and make sure the vehicle is repaired cycle the ignition to off and run at less 5 consecutive times, delaying in each position at least 30 seconds.

 

[alaska_guy]

Here is the mod to get rid of the service brake booster message. Hope it helps someone else out.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...ion-130/message-center-fake-out-418055/page2/

 

[MartyMcFLy]

I can get a 2003 4x4 Suburban that's in good shape. Original owner, 350k miles! The wifes 04 escalade has been awesome so far and I was looking at getting this to fix up and possibly replace my truck and or give to my little sister as she wants an SUV for her dog.

Owner said the coolant reservoir has a crack and needs fixing/replaced. Transmission just started slipping when she goes up a steep grade. (She lives on the mountain side by my house and she doesn't want to risk running it anymore.)

Other than that she says the engine runs great and everything else works as it should. She bought it with unlimited oil changes new from the dealership and she said she has been diligent on the oil changes and has got her money out of it.

Owner is wanting $1500.


I plan to look at it tonight, check the transmission dipstick and smell the fluid and give the rig a once over...

I know a transmission rebuild or swap will be necessary eventually.

I planned on buying it and parking it this winter, pull the trans and rebuild it over the winter if I buy it. I have built a few engines, replaced clutches and fixed diffs and stuff. This will be my first transmission rebuild. Looks like I can find a rebuild kit for anywhere from $200-$500...

So $2200 or so all in if its as good as shape as she says and I do the work...

Thoughts?

I wouldn't get it. You can find plenty of Suburbans and Yukons on Facebook Marketplace for $2000-$3000 in way better condition and won't have to fork out another $1500 for a rebuild. Plus, it has a lot of miles...and it can get unpredictable at that stage. Look around more. You'll find a better deal.

 

[wjburken]

I wouldn't get it. You can find plenty of Suburbans and Yukons on Facebook Marketplace for $2000-$3000 in way better condition and won't have to fork out another $1500 for a rebuild. Plus, it has a lot of miles...and it can get unpredictable at that stage. Look around more. You'll find a better deal.

Take a gander at post #8 of this thread. He already bought it.

 

[MartyMcFLy]

Take a gander at post #8 of this thread. He already bought it.

I see that now, but I stand by what I said. Kind of late now, but I think he should know. more $$$ spent in the long run which would negate getting a cheap vehicle to begin with.

 

[wjburken]

I see that now, but I stand by what I said. Kind of late now, but I think he should know. more $$$ spent in the long run which would negate getting a cheap vehicle to begin with.

Understand. Not sure how many options are available up in Alaska though.

 

[MartyMcFLy]

Understand. Not sure how many options are available up in Alaska though.

I sold a Yukon XL to an Alaskan last month for a good deal. Quite the coincidence that he is Alaskan as well, but I suppose they travel out of state for those gnarly purchases.

 

[Flash1976]

I can get a 2003 4x4 Suburban that's in good shape. Original owner, 350k miles! The wifes 04 escalade has been awesome so far and I was looking at getting this to fix up and possibly replace my truck and or give to my little sister as she wants an SUV for her dog.

Owner said the coolant reservoir has a crack and needs fixing/replaced. Transmission just started slipping when she goes up a steep grade. (She lives on the mountain side by my house and she doesn't want to risk running it anymore.)

Other than that she says the engine runs great and everything else works as it should. She bought it with unlimited oil changes new from the dealership and she said she has been diligent on the oil changes and has got her money out of it.

Owner is wanting $1500.


I plan to look at it tonight, check the transmission dipstick and smell the fluid and give the rig a once over...

I know a transmission rebuild or swap will be necessary eventually.

I planned on buying it and parking it this winter, pull the trans and rebuild it over the winter if I buy it. I have built a few engines, replaced clutches and fixed diffs and stuff. This will be my first transmission rebuild. Looks like I can find a rebuild kit for anywhere from $200-$500...

So $2200 or so all in if its as good as shape as she says and I do the work...

Thoughts?

I have 481,000 mile on my 2000 Tahoe 4x4 , same engine, and 320,000 mile on the current transmission. Rebuilt the transfer case with about 400,000 miles on it. I take this rig everywhere. Don't be afraid of the miles, but be prepared for a new tranny if it is slipping now. The price is good. Who wants to spend $60 K on a new one and eat all that depreciation. My rig doubles in value every time I fill it with gas... LOL... I take care of the little things. it looks and runs great.

 

[alaska_guy]

Mechanic said he was done. Plan to hopefully pick it up next week sometime. My reman'd valve body comes in the mail tomorrow, I may drop that off with my mechanic if he has the time to do the swap. Should know more of the status of what needed to be done on Monday.

 

[alaska_guy]

Well, vehicle has a clean bill of health.

Both diff fluids were changed
transmission fluid and filter changed
Brakes replaced
front transfer case motor replaced
valve cover gaskets replaced and heads inspected visually
Coolant leak was a plastic fitting by the firewall for the heater core
The Limited Slip Differential clutch material are worn and need new friction material (on order and will be replaced, super common in Alaska apparently).

Drove it 30 miles and so far no dash messages and everything seems to work as it should, even the transmission isn't slipping anymore... Need to drive it more as the 1-2 shift is still super firm. I have a new valve body in case the current one needs to be replaced. The shop suggested I drive it around for a while and when he gets the stuff for the LSD he will call me and if the valve body needs to be replaced he will do it at that time.

We traded work, so cost was $0!

Best $1500 I have ever spent on a vehicle.