Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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/\ that is what I always thought, just assumed description of GM pump was wrong.

As for oil pressure now...I beat it pretty bad, after afm delete the towers are left open and just the valley cover has orings but not much support to seal up well (going to tap plugs into each) . Oring on pickup tube looked great and was tight but it's an easy swap why not. I removed the oil galley plug right after the oil pump on side of block and have 4an line going to turbo, it's a thrust bearing style so it should restrict oil flow and allow pressure to build no problem. Plugging pressure relief in pan, and only other major place ol pressure could drop is the cam retaining plate.
 
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randeez

randeez

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since i'm saving so much money ghetto building this bih...went ahead and ordered (what i hope is) everything i need to go hydroboost. I am not really to sure if this stuff is what i need but its as close to what it should be lol, ive seen a few swaps in gmt900 trucks using 2008-2016 hydroboost parts so hopefully everything will fall right into place. @swathdiver to confirm :anitoof:

pedal - i grabbed off ebay junk yard from a 2012 2500 yukon , 100bux for complete pedal assembly, wasnt sure if i needed something special cause it has adjustable pedals (one i grabbed came with adjustable pedal assembly).
hydroboost unit - for same 2012 2500 yukon- i know i could have found cheaper or bought a reman'd unit but it's brakes not really where i want to cheap out over 100bux.
brake master cyl - for same truck, was different part number than i have not sure if specific to hydro boost or different braking system if i dont need it i'll send it back
hydraulic lines - one from pump to hydroboost, two from hydroboost to steering rack. i may grab a new power steering pump cause cause mine looked all old and ***** - works perfect, will have to T the returns together for now, want to make sure it all works
 
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randeez

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lol was jk man, i dont know what other vehicle to use for a parts source if not, at the least it should all bolt in place, may have to adapt brake lines or something
 

swathdiver

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lol was jk man, i dont know what other vehicle to use for a parts source if not, at the least it should all bolt in place, may have to adapt brake lines or something

Ok, good! Cause I reckon you know that better than me! I figure everything from the 2500 will work save for a line or two to the rack and pinion unit. Use the 2500s Power Steering Pump.

Here's a 2500s VIN that you can plug in at ACDelco and see what parts you have or might need:

1GKW2REG8CR281063

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php


I always liked Hybroboost. First encountered it with our '82 Oldsmobile and then the '85 T-Type and I think even the '88 F-450 Super Duty had it too. Only downside we no pedal when the motor died. Good for cams that don't make a lot of vacuum.
 
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randeez

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Yea guess I should've looked into it more first, overlooked that the 2500 trucks/suv still used rack and pinion, so going to have to do something to connect to steering rack of 1500. Seems to be hit or miss on 2500 master cylinder matching up to 1500 brake lines some do some dont, have to find correct one.
PS pump I don't think is any different except reservoir has and extra return

Looks like 2012+ is 14mmx1.5 threads for brake lines, so think I need that one
 
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iamdub

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What's different with the pedal and master cylinder? I did a HB conversion on my '02 S10 and everything was plug-and-play with parts from a NBS Suburban. The only non-bolt-on part was the rod length for the pedal, the HB one was about 3/4" longer. Basically just removed the vacuum booster and slid the HB unit in it's place and bolted everything back together. I'd love to swap to HB on my Tahoe but not if I have to replace everything including the 2-year-old master cylinder.
 
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randeez

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the pivot point is higher - if the throw is to far it can damage the master cyl. aside from that i did not know, mine is attached to the entire adjustable pedal assembly if i dont need it even better. a lot of the parts are interchangable but usually run into little niche problems since there isnt much info available

i think the bore on the master cyl is different from vac to hyd
d1501888222-hydroboost-conversion-install-dscf2333.jpg
 
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randeez

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Pluggin holes

Lifter towers I wasnt too sure what I wanted to do. I tapped them out to 3/8, they were already drilled real close to 5/16 so that or 10mm was about the smallest option. Next on top of the set screws I wanted to use a thread sealer but was weary of it getting out of the threads, over applying, etc and didnt want it loose in engine. So I used some ultra black rtv on top of the set screw to make a little plug that will be trapped between the set screw and cover
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randeez

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Line up yer dots, I have a flex plate lock I throw on it at the point, pull tensioner back and put pin (small drill bit) in and take it off. And of course why would all the bolts come back out easy

Hmmm unusual rub on the cam plate? Not to sure why.
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randeez

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it is done.... i feel kinda dirty
there will be no pics for plausible deniability when i blow it apart :anitoof:

I will take some more after engine is all buttoned up and ready to go back in, the cam retaining plate didn't come with new screws and cant exactly reuse my old ones. so i need to jump up in morning and go find some. without them i can't throw on timing chain/gears, oil pump, front cover etc.... i could put the heads on but would need to put in the lifters/trays first, if i need to slide cam in/out or rotate just going to be something else deal with so im callin it a night
 

Chrismnj

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Are you changing timing chain tensioner? Just wondering when I was doing VVT delete my kit came with old style tensioner as on the pic.
nal-12588670_ml.jpg

but after installing it we noticed much play in the chain, so went back to original one.

nal-12626407_ml.jpg
 
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randeez

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mine makes so much noise anyway :Big Laugh:

you mean tensioner 1 or 2 of the ones you posted? the top one i wouldnt even call it a tensioner it just keeps the slack from going in
i'm putting back on the spring loaded one
 

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Picture 1 on my friends truck making noise, I went with picture 2 no chain noise for me
 

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