Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[Sam Harris]

There were two versions of the WW2 Essex class carriers, one was referred to as the "long nose" because they were lengthened for anti-aircraft guns. You guys could do the same and market a "long nose" version of your trucks to make extra room and ducting for all the coolers and fans.

[emoji23]


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[randeez]

Cute lil guys

 

[randeez]

And some plug n play adapters, said they come with solder on connectors but f that what's another 50 bux at this point

 

[Rocket Man]

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And some plug n play adapters, said they come with solder on connectors but f that what's another 50 bux at this point
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I bought pnp adapters for $12.

 

[randeez]

I bought some for 50....

 

[Sam Harris]

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Mmm.. them's some nice big numbers..!

 

[randeez]

alrighty kids lets talk fuel pumps...

I have 6lb waste gate spring in with new injectors i can drive it pretty normally. can pretty confidently do a pull through and third AFR starts climbing but stays low 12s - however fuel pressure is down to like 30psi lol.

options not particularly in order of preference, just wondering some input i have my own pro/con list but i may be overlooking some things. really my only stip is i can still somewhat daily drive it/long haul around state if i wanted to and not have to listen to pump/s whine. im wanting to run e85 and will need to add atleast one fuel line. second pump would be activated by hobbs (pressure) switch or ive been thinking about using a tach trigger not sure if every WOT shift the second pump is going to cut out, should be able to get back up and going with 1st pump running but just a little thing that would bother me - id rather have the pump come on WOT and stay on, could wire in time delay off but it may be just as easy to use something like a nitrous controller to fire up second pump at 4500rpm wot shifts would stay above that point. I would add a switch to manually turn on the pump at the track when i know im going to hit it

1) leave the stock flex fuel pump, hack up bucket and add a walbro 450 (or hellcat 525). i would be limited on having no return fuel line. even if i added return line this would max out probably 850-900hp on e85. if anything goes wrong i have to drop tank to check. thats pretty much what i want to feed for now, would have to gut it all to go any faster.

2) gut the bucket and install two(three if they'll fit) 450s/525s, add a -8an feed and use stock line for return, add regulator up front, leave flex fuel sensor in return. maybe slightly louder than the stock but most people saying they dont notice a pair running both all the time in tank. still have to drop tank to check anything. should be pretty comfortably able to feed over 1000hp on e85. would be plenty of buffer for now, would like to hit that hp mark at some point.

3) dont touch stock flex pump/bucket/line/fpcm/flex sensor. sump the tank, mount a large pump/filter/check valve on the frame rail with new feed/return lines up to a regulator. cons... i have to cut a hole in fuel tank would prob use a beans diesel sump - hard to find someone who's had issues with them when properly installed. wouldnt have to drop tank (unless problem with stock pump), rail pump could be used as primary if in tank failed in a pinch. should be enough fuel to keep me happy through many more upgrades. if i had problem with big pump i could just plug the sump and be on my way while i get it fixed.

as i write it all out im leaning towards #3

 

[swathdiver]

#3, gives you options should something go wrong and you only hear it while racing.

 

[bigfootchiro]

alrighty kids lets talk fuel pumps...

3) dont touch stock flex pump/bucket/line/fpcm/flex sensor. sump the tank, mount a large pump/filter/check valve on the frame rail with new feed/return lines up to a regulator. cons... i have to cut a hole in fuel tank would prob use a beans diesel sump - hard to find someone who's had issues with them when properly installed. wouldnt have to drop tank (unless problem with stock pump), rail pump could be used as primary if in tank failed in a pinch. should be enough fuel to keep me happy through many more upgrades. if i had problem with big pump i could just plug the sump and be on my way while i get it fixed.

as i write it all out im leaning towards #3

As I’m reading it, I’m saying to myself that you should go #3. Do it right the first time.

 

[randeez]

Ordered the sump so I can get it laid out, with an extra plug so I can install it whenever.
https://bdpshop.com/bean-machine-multi-function-fuel-tank-sump/

Will probably go with magnafuel 750 4303, pre/post filters, check valve, 10an feed, 8an return. Need to crawl under there and get a plan, might try and use some hard line for some of the long runs and save the cost of ptfe flexible hose some. Going to use the circuit to rear air compressor(40amp) I no longer use still deciding on relay trigger. Search around see if what else pops up.

 

[swathdiver]

Ordered the sump so I can get it laid out, with an extra plug so I can install it whenever.
https://bdpshop.com/bean-machine-multi-function-fuel-tank-sump/

Will probably go with magnafuel 750 4303, pre/post filters, check valve, 10an feed, 8an return. Need to crawl under there and get a plan, might try and use some hard line for some of the long runs and save the cost of ptfe flexible hose some. Going to use the circuit to rear air compressor(40amp) I no longer use still deciding on relay trigger. Search around see if what else pops up.

Consider rigging up the compressor to air up your tires.

 

[Rocket Man]

What about your fuel gauge- is it still going to work? I thought the level sensor is on the stock fuel pump assembly.

 

[Doubeleive]

you should be able to mount the transcooler right up where the bottom splash shield is, I bought a aftermarket aluminum one, something like that could be cut out to fit a trans cooler and then just put a grill in the front of it to keep rocks/debri from getting in it.

 

[randeez]

Yea not touching stock bucket, it will work fine. Stock pump/bucket going to stay in and working 90%of the time.

 

[randeez]

you should be able to mount the transcooler right up where the bottom splash shield is, I bought a aftermarket aluminum one, something like that could be cut out to fit a trans cooler and then just put a grill in the front of it to keep rocks/debri from getting in it.

No more splash sheild, that's 2qs my original thought but couldnt find a good way to mount and still get plenty of air. Dont want to mount above crash bar and block so much intercooler with it either.
Here isnt a bad place but dunno what happened got a little leak somewhere, troubleshooting now.

 

[randeez]

welp.... ripped front bumper off, started truck, couldnt find leak.... disconnected hoses, put on short piece and put air to it, sprayed some soapy water, no bubbles, changed a 180* 6an fitting out that felt kinda loose the side leaking, put it all back together, went for a drive and got back home and it's all covered in tranny fluid again
i'll prob just order another one and hope its something screwy

 

[Rocket Man]

welp.... ripped front bumper off, started truck, couldnt find leak.... disconnected hoses, put on short piece and put air to it, sprayed some soapy water, no bubbles, changed a 180* 6an fitting out that felt kinda loose the side leaking, put it all back together, went for a drive and got back home and it's all covered in tranny fluid again
i'll prob just order another one and hope its something screwy

I hate leaks. Why can’t shit just stay where it’s supposed to?

 

[randeez]

yea, atleast if i could definitely know where its leaking i could just fix it but i havent had another problems with fittings...they're all russell or earl...probably was just careless with the cooler after i took it out. not terribly expensive just hate buying stuff twice

 

[Rocket Man]

yea, atleast if i could definitely know where its leaking i could just fix it but i havent had another problems with fittings...they're all russell or earl...probably was just careless with the cooler after i took it out. not terribly expensive just hate buying stuff twice

I remember after I installed mine in the lower grill area, about a month later I heard a sound like a muffler dragging on the pavement so I immediately pulled over. It was my trans cooler; one of the 2 bolts that I had attached it with had backed out and it was dragging on the road. No leaks, no real damage. You can be sure it got 2 new bolts loctited and torqued the hell down. Just lucky I wasn’t on the freeway.

 

[Doubeleive]

I drove my Silverado today after having it at the dealer Friday for new trans lines, I was getting on The freeway and seen giant white puffs behind me, I knew right away what it was, freaking line came out or broke or something whole undercarriage looks like it took a bath in trans fluid, luckily I caught it right away I managed to get it parked right when it started to not want to go