Brake upgrade on 2000 Yukon or Tahoe

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Ming15237

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So I am aware this subject has been beaten to death on this forum but I wanted to write this so that the average idiot (such as myself) could understand it. I own a 2000 GMC Yukon SLT with 85k miles on it. I have ALWAYS hated the stopping abilities of this truck, as it is BY FAR the biggest weakness of the vehicle. I am also a ASE Certified Master Tech. This vehicle is used mostly for snow plowing and occasional family usage (I own 5 vehicles total and only have 2 drivers so I don't use the truck all that much mostly because the brakes are woefully inadequate!). When I purchased the vehicle 3 years ago I changed the front brakes and rotors with power stop drilled and slotted rotors and new rear brakes and rotors from AutoZone. Even with the new brakes and rotors on it I still had a difficult time stopping the vehicle. The brake system had been power flushed and the ABS pump had been replaced in an attempt to help with the spongy brake pedal, all to no avail. I found a youtube vid where the guy did a swap so I gave it a go.
The new brake calipers, rotors and brake pads I used were from a 2011 Chevy Suburban 1500 with a 5.3 V8. The rotor is SIGNIFICANTLY thicker and the diameter is also much larger. I have 17 inch wheels so I had no issue fitting the calipers. I used Raybestos EHT pads, Raybestos coated rotors (we need these in the north where road salt is aplenty around here) and centric calipers. There is no need to change the brake hoses as out hoses fit just fine. I am also NOT a fan of braded stainless steel lines as I have seen them fail on multiple occasions. The swap took me less than an hour (mainly because I have a lift and use power tools :). The difference in the braking was AMAZING! I could overheat my old brakes with 4 panic stops. I can now actually make the ABS system kick on dry road! LOVE IT and NO brake fad!
 

ScottyBoy

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I did this same upgrade to my 2001 Suburban about a year and a half to two years ago. While braking has DEFINITELY improved, it's not a night and day difference. I was in a wreck about 2 months ago and even this brake upgrade couldn't stop my big ass Suburban fast enough. Granted, it WAS raining and the roads were slick as shit, so I honestly don't know if I would have been able to stop in time had it not been raining. At least it DID slow it down enough that the impact wasn't severe enough to trigger the airbags.
 
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Ming15237

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I did this same upgrade to my 2001 Suburban about a year and a half to two years ago. While braking has DEFINITELY improved, it's not a night and day difference. I was in a wreck about 2 months ago and even this brake upgrade couldn't stop my big ass Suburban fast enough. Granted, it WAS raining and the roads were slick as shit, so I honestly don't know if I would have been able to stop in time had it not been raining. At least it DID slow it down enough that the impact wasn't severe enough to trigger the airbags.

There are a lot of mitigating factors in your accident, slick roads, rain, and tire conditions all play a significant factor in a vehicles ability to stop. As such you have a Suburban which weighs more than the Yukon/Tahoe. My Yukon prior to the caliper upgrade was impossible to cause the front wheels to lock and engage the ABS, I can now make the front wheels lock with ease. The mechanical advantage offered by the larger diameter rotors is significant, as is the larger brake caliper pistons. Both of which offer a significant increase in braking ability’s.
 

iamdub

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I did this same upgrade to my 2001 Suburban about a year and a half to two years ago. While braking has DEFINITELY improved, it's not a night and day difference. I was in a wreck about 2 months ago and even this brake upgrade couldn't stop my big ass Suburban fast enough. Granted, it WAS raining and the roads were slick as shit, so I honestly don't know if I would have been able to stop in time had it not been raining. At least it DID slow it down enough that the impact wasn't severe enough to trigger the airbags.


Brakes only stop the wheels from turning. If the tires are slick or just not grippy and/or the roads are wet, it doesn't matter how great your brakes are. Brakes being able to lock up wheels is about as best as you can get. The rest is all on the ABS system to prevent them from locking and the amount of grip that relatively tiny footprint your tires have on the road. If you remove the ABS fuse and can't lock up your wheels, then your brakes aren't up to par.
 

SRQYukon

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I know this thread is a few months old but I appreciate the straightforward upgrade advice from Nathan. I have been contemplating the GMT900 front brake upgrade on my 2003 Yukon XL. My factory brakes have been very reliable and last forever (90,000 on each set of front pads). However, I do a lot of towing and grossing 10,000-11,000 lbs. the fade can be significant, especially when traffic stops abruptly several times in succession (rubbernecker syndrome). I really don't want to use graveyard parts. I have considered the Power Stop front brake kit but have read that their pads are not so great. I like the idea of getting the Power Stop calipers and drilled/slotted rotors and stick with GM or Raybestos pads. Has anybody on the forum done it this way instead of getting used front brakes from a GMT900 to upgrade a their GMT800?
 

corvette744

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I made the mistake of getting new power stop stock rotors and pads and it did no better for braking then stock.I then sold them on craigslist got almost all my money back.Then bought gmt 900 calipers power stop and rotors and pads and much better braking especially for towing.I would not tow a bicycle with the old brakes.P.S my rotors and pads are baer sport rotors-worth the extra cost.

hitch to spare tire clearence 057.JPG
 
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Kraig

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I know this thread is a few months old but I appreciate the straightforward upgrade advice from Nathan. I have been contemplating the GMT900 front brake upgrade on my 2003 Yukon XL. My factory brakes have been very reliable and last forever (90,000 on each set of front pads). However, I do a lot of towing and grossing 10,000-11,000 lbs. the fade can be significant, especially when traffic stops abruptly several times in succession (rubbernecker syndrome). I really don't want to use graveyard parts. I have considered the Power Stop front brake kit but have read that their pads are not so great. I like the idea of getting the Power Stop calipers and drilled/slotted rotors and stick with GM or Raybestos pads. Has anybody on the forum done it this way instead of getting used front brakes from a GMT900 to upgrade a their GMT800?

You can do this upgrade using all-new parts. Rotors, calipers, and pads can all be purchased brand-new.
 

adriver

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I know this thread is a few months old but I appreciate the straightforward upgrade advice from Nathan. I have been contemplating the GMT900 front brake upgrade on my 2003 Yukon XL. My factory brakes have been very reliable and last forever (90,000 on each set of front pads). However, I do a lot of towing and grossing 10,000-11,000 lbs. the fade can be significant, especially when traffic stops abruptly several times in succession (rubbernecker syndrome). I really don't want to use graveyard parts. I have considered the Power Stop front brake kit but have read that their pads are not so great. I like the idea of getting the Power Stop calipers and drilled/slotted rotors and stick with GM or Raybestos pads. Has anybody on the forum done it this way instead of getting used front brakes from a GMT900 to upgrade a their GMT800?
The majority of people who spend the money on brakes are not doing this with used brakes, (I would think very few people would be using used brakes). They are buying new brakes with the gmt900 parts/part numbers, then getting aftermarket for that model to upgrade a little more. Used brakes would still need rotors turned, new pads, and your calipers rebuilt. For the hassle, gas money, time of searching; its not worth it for the wearable parts. The only brake component I would buy used is the hydroboost which you can easily rebuild quickly.
 

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