What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bombsquad85]

I'm not too sure about this one, but I have used the Amsoil Severe Gear and had good results, it ran me about $12 a quart with my Amsoil Preferred Customer membership discount ($20 a year). That membership pays for itself when I order a single case of 12 quarts of oil, as I save well over $20 off the retail price. Back to the "Severe Gear", I only had it in my rear diff for a few months though, I noticed my rear differential gasket leaking badly one day so I had to source a new gasket and oil locally. I ended up getting the Mobil 1 gear oil from Advance Auto parts for around $11 or $12 a quart, and that's what's still in it now.

Thanks. I want to change the fluid asap since I dont think its been done at all. I'm kinda nervous to as well I hope the fluid isn't sludge...

When I do the rear I should take the cover off and do a new gasket while I'm there huh....

 

[ScottyBoy]

Thanks. I want to change the fluid asap since I dont think its been done at all. I'm kinda nervous to as well I hope the fluid isn't sludge...

When I do the rear I should take the cover off and do a new gasket while I'm there huh....

Yes, I put a new gasket on mine, but then it was leaking badly within a few months. I thought it was just a bad gasket, but I noticed a few indents around some of the bolt hts in the diff cover that were possibly caused by over tightening. I ended up getting a new diff cover ,( Dorman brand ) which was a LOT thickertmetal than the factory diff cover, plus it has a drain plug. It came with a new gasket as well which was MUCH thicker than the thin Fel-Pro paper gasket I installed months earlier. So to be honest, I would just go ahead and get a new diff cover too. They are a lot cheaper if you order it from Rockauto (around $25 I think) which is not bad considering it better quality that the original, plus it comes with a very heavy duty gasket. The ONLY thing I didn't like about it was that it all bare steel. But a few coats of black spray paint before installing it quickly solved that issue.
And here's another tip, I mentioned that some of the bolts might have been over tightened, so I made sure to not over tighten them this time, however I noticed some small dripping/seepage a few weeks later, so I checked the bolts and some of them were VERY loose, as if they worked their way loose. So I tightened them up, cleaned off all seepage and kept an eye on it. I climbed under the truck about 2 weeks later just to check if the bolts we're tight, even though nothing was leaking, and sure enough two of them were a little loose. So after that what l did was torqued them all down, and then I used a silver paint marker (white would be better though) and I drew a line on the head of each bolt and onto the diff cover. That way I can check to see if the bolt have loosed by simply sticking my head under the back bumper and not grabbing a ratchet and actually check each bolt. You can VERY easily see if the line on the bolt head has moved from the rest of the line on the diff cover. So simply marking the bolts is a good tip to check for bolts coming loose with a quick visual inspection and not even touch it.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes, I put a new gasket on mine, but then it was leaking badly within a few months. I thought it was just a bad gasket, but I noticed a few indents around some of the bolt hts in the diff cover that were possibly caused by over tightening. I ended up getting a new diff cover ,( Dorman brand ) which was a LOT thickertmetal than the factory diff cover, plus it has a drain plug. It came with a new gasket as well which was MUCH thicker than the thin Fel-Pro paper gasket I installed months earlier. So to be honest, I would just go ahead and get a new diff cover too. They are a lot cheaper if you order it from Rockauto (around $25 I think) which is not bad considering it better quality that the original, plus it comes with a very heavy duty gasket. The ONLY thing I didn't like about it was that it all bare steel. But a few coats of black spray paint before installing it quickly solved that issue.
And here's another tip, I mentioned that some of the bolts might have been over tightened, so I made sure to not over tighten them this time, however I noticed some small dripping/seepage a few weeks later, so I checked the bolts and some of them were VERY loose, as if they worked their way loose. So I tightened them up, cleaned off all seepage and kept an eye on it. I climbed under the truck about 2 weeks later just to check if the bolts we're tight, even though nothing was leaking, and sure enough two of them were a little loose. So after that what l did was torqued them all down, and then I used a silver paint marker (white would be better though) and I drew a line on the head of each bolt and onto the diff cover. That way I can check to see if the bolt have loosed by simply sticking my head under the back bumper and not grabbing a ratchet and actually check each bolt. You can VERY easily see if the line on the bolt head has moved from the rest of the line on the diff cover. So simply marking the bolts is a good tip to check for bolts coming loose with a quick visual inspection and not even touch it.

I've installed both of mine and followed the service manual info to tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 30 ft/lbs and never had a problem.

 

[ScottyBoy]

I've installed both of mine and followed the service manual info to tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 30 ft/lbs and never had a problem.

I'm thinking maybe I should have cleaned the bolts off. My thoughts are that there was a but of gear oil on the threads, and that's how they worked loose. Because the only bolts that worked loose were the lower bolts below the oil fill level. But after I re-torqued them twice now, they haven't worked loose again.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm thinking maybe I should have cleaned the bolts off. My thoughts are that there was a but of gear oil on the threads, and that's how they worked loose. Because the only bolts that worked loose were the lower bolts below the oil fill level. But after I re-torqued them twice now, they haven't worked loose again.

That would make sense. You're actually supposed to use new ones according to the manual, and I do not know why. I did clean and inspect mine after I saw I was supposed to throw them away, because that didn't make sense.

 

[08grey]

Changed the wheels for a softer ride.

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[adventurenali92]

Changed the wheels for a softer ride.

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Damn son that looks gorgeous!!! I want your truck!

 

[inmypassatlife]

@Galante update lol!

 

[PG01]

@Galante update lol!

Nice....

 

[95escahoe]

Changed the wheels for a softer ride.

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Those rims look great on there



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[Tonyrodz]

Nice....

Foam

 

[Rocket Man]

Changed the wheels for a softer ride.

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What was on it before? I forget...

 

[08grey]

Thank you for the kind words. I had these on it before. They are the winter wheels from my nnbs.

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[inmypassatlife]

Foam

Yep, I have a 2001 which is a totally different seat design. So I removed the seat pans and foam from an 03+ bench.

I'll be installing leather covers in my office throughout the week.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yep, I have a 2001 which is a totally different seat design. So I removed the seat pans and foam from an 03+ bench.

I'll be installing leather covers in my office throughout the week.

Nice, we'll need the obligatory pics of course.

 

[inmypassatlife]

Nice, we'll need the obligatory pics of course.

In the next 90 days I'm sure lol

I have ADD man! I jump around from one project to another. But i need to get my rear seat done when my son as it has moms. Summer time it's rare as he spends most of it with me.

 

[inmypassatlife]

@Tonyrodz any chance you have a tan oem center passenger seat belt? The one that comes over the shoulder in the middle row?

 

[bottomline2000]

Yep, I have a 2001 which is a totally different seat design. So I removed the seat pans and foam from an 03+ bench.

I'll be installing leather covers in my office throughout the week.

A lot of interior work going on. By chance have u taken your rear seat apart. I'm not sure how my center armrest/cupholder comes apart. I'm doing my rear in the truck. Don't want to uninstall my amp rack an crossovers and junk..

I'm almost done with mine but it seems Katzskin sewed the clips for the smaller 40 of the 60/40 seat backwards. No way to lock them together so I may be going to an upholstery shop for a 2nd opinion...my luck...

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[bottomline2000]

Had to stop mid install to replace broken window regulator for right rear. Finally got the front seats done..working on the rear seats now..

anyone know how to break down the center armrest/cup holder in the rear please chime in before I rip it apart..

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[Tonyrodz]

@Tonyrodz any chance you have a tan oem center passenger seat belt? The one that comes over the shoulder in the middle row?

Sorry buddy, I don't.

Had to stop mid install to replace broken window regulator for right rear. Finally got the front seats done..working on the rear seats now..

anyone know how to break down the center armrest/cup holder in the rear please chime in before I rip it apart..

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The front seats look great. Once I replaced those rubber tabs in the 2nd row drop down console, I pulled that upper piece off--the top of the cup holder--just pry it off. That's as far as I went, but there MIGHT be some screws under there that might get you where you need to be. Lmk how it goes.