What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Bombsquad85

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I think 2/3 is perfect for what I want

15259039276921333279354.jpg
 

Bombsquad85

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Scottydoggs

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Ok, thought this was an exhaust leak because header bolts were loose. Tightened them but noise is still there. I can't tell if it's exhaust or under the valve cover. Def noise from the top end somewhere. Opinions or suggestions?
Hood closed.

that sounds like a busted rocker, spring, or a beat lifter. id be yanking off the v/c thats its loudest on.

and damn that trucks loud. how loud is it driving all normal like?

i tell ya, im so over loud exhaust set ups. even if i was to install a cam id still run a really tame cat back. i like to go fast and not be heard doing it. lol nothing like drawing attention to the act.....

like my regal, its sounds like a vacuum, all sc whine. no way a cops gonna think that sound came from my car.....
 

Tonyrodz

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that sounds like a busted rocker, spring, or a beat lifter. id be yanking off the v/c thats its loudest on.

and damn that trucks loud. how loud is it driving all normal like?

i tell ya, im so over loud exhaust set ups. even if i was to install a cam id still run a really tame cat back. i like to go fast and not be heard doing it. lol nothing like drawing attention to the act.....

like my regal, its sounds like a vacuum, all sc whine. no way a cops gonna think that sound came from my car.....
I thought it might be coming from there too. @sumo suggested I pop the oil fill cap and put my ear to it for any rocker noise--didn't hear snyyhing. After sitting for sbout 45 mins, started it and saw smoke coming from somewhere near the middle of the header on the pass side.
There was more smoke but I wasn't able to record it.
Then I noticed a gap on the tube to the right.
20180509_191551.jpg
20180509_191421.jpg

But there's nothing coming from it. Driver side is completely flush. I'm stumped. And yes @Scottydoggs , it's LOUD! But in a mean way, not crappy.
 

sumo

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Shouldn’t be smoking. Unless your valve cover is leaking onto the header and it’s burning off. May need to pull that header and take a look at that gasket
 

Scottydoggs

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I thought it might be coming from there too. @sumo suggested I pop the oil fill cap and put my ear to it for any rocker noise--didn't hear snyyhing. After sitting for sbout 45 mins, started it and saw smoke coming from somewhere near the middle of the header on the pass side.
There was more smoke but I wasn't able to record it.
Then I noticed a gap on the tube to the right.View attachment 198977 View attachment 198978
But there's nothing coming from it. Driver side is completely flush. I'm stumped. And yes @Scottydoggs , it's LOUD! But in a mean way, not crappy.


dumb question time... did or does the oil dip stick push out like that on its own? if it did thats pretty bad.

if that gap was a leak you'd see black carbon all over the head there.

it sounds beastly for sure. i just cant deal with the loud no more. those days are so behind me.
 

Tonyrodz

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dumb question time... did or does the oil dip stick push out like that on its own? if it did thats pretty bad.

if that gap was a leak you'd see black carbon all over the head there.

it sounds beastly for sure. i just cant deal with the loud no more. those days are so behind me.
The dip stick actually got pulled out a little when I was checking the plugs and wires. That qas my fault. No carbon build up there. I'm also thinking about quieting it down some. If you're on a phone, turn it sideways when you're on my post and listen to my cold start video.
 

Scottydoggs

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every vid sounds valve train related to me.

whats that smoke smell like?
 

Tonyrodz

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odd for sure. id be taking that rocker cover off asap and id try not to drive it till you look things over.

would really suck if its a rounded cam lobe.
I hope not, but honestly it doesn't sound internal. Not in the motor itself. Hopefully it won't rain Saturday, that's the only time I can look at it.
 

04Huck

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Well I'm done for the day. Sway bar is banging against something (probably why It needs to be moved over 2 inches)

No free travel mod because cheap harbor freight cutoff and sawsall

I did my free travel mod with a Ryobi sawzall and some good blades and a grinder to smooth it out. Your sway bar is hitting the panhard bar bracket on the passenger side. Once you do the relocation, it’ll bolt on the other side of that bracket and sit just in between the panhard bracket and the shock.

Like this
fb68e9cfbf55950bd2f9d6b732502a21.jpg


Also, you don’t have to buy nuts for the new holes when you relocate the drivers mount. You just have to make sure to drill and tap the original size of the original bolts and you can reuse them

View attachment 198961 View attachment 198962
I think 2/3 is perfect for what I want

View attachment 198972


That’s what I thought at first too lol. 4/4 is perfect IMO


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Bombsquad85

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Ok guys I'm missing something For sure.

I moved the sway bar over 2" like I was recommended, however, when I do so the sway bar hits the axle on the driverside and the shock on the passenger side. When I leave it where it is but bolt it to the new endlinks it has clearance all around (full compression and max extension)

what am I doing wrong??

First 2 are with it moved to the passenger side 2"
20180510_114811.jpg 20180510_114832.jpg

Factory location just mounted to new endlinks
20180510_120158.jpg
20180510_120150.jpg

These are taken at full compression
 

04Huck

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Ok guys I'm missing something For sure.

I moved the sway bar over 2" like I was recommended, however, when I do so the sway bar hits the axle on the driverside and the shock on the passenger side. When I leave it where it is but bolt it to the new endlinks it has clearance all around (full compression and max extension)

what am I doing wrong??

First 2 are with it moved to the passenger side 2"
View attachment 199031 View attachment 199032

Factory location just mounted to new endlinks
View attachment 199033
View attachment 199030

These are taken at full compression

How low are you in the rear? I know when I put my bar on after I had pull the spring spacers to go 4" in the rear, my axle was at full droop and the sway bar hit the axle. I had to raise it up to close to ride height before the sway bar would mount properly. I'm not entirely sure those will work if you're higher than 4" in the rear. They MIGHT work at 3" but it'd be close I'd bet.

**I looked again and see your axle is fully drooped. It will hit that way. You have to jack up the axle quite a bit to get it to clear. This also means you cannot leave your axle at droop in the future without taking off the rear swaybar.
 

Bombsquad85

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How low are you in the rear? I know when I put my bar on after I had pull the spring spacers to go 4" in the rear, my axle was at full droop and the sway bar hit the axle. I had to raise it up to close to ride height before the sway bar would mount properly. I'm not entirely sure those will work if you're higher than 4" in the rear. They MIGHT work at 3" but it'd be close I'd bet.

**I looked again and see your axle is fully drooped. It will hit that way. You have to jack up the axle quite a bit to get it to clear. This also means you cannot leave your axle at droop in the future without taking off the rear swaybar.

I'm at 3".

Those pictures are with the axle all the way up.

I'l get more pics with it on the ground. I just checked the front UCAs and I didn' cut enough off the bolt. It rubbed on the axle boot. Luckily it didn' go through so I cut more off and there' 1-2mm of clearance
 

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