Megan the Tahoe

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

05Single

afraid of the dark
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Posts
8,243
Reaction score
11,639
I took some of my holiday free time to pull the fender flares off the Tahoe. I was expecting paint damage and I definitely got it.
eQCB8FB.jpg


I had to give it a wash before I removed all the adhesive.
xcqnbCC.jpg


I broke out the DA polisher and went to work. It's not perfect but it's a good 10-15 footer now at least. I love the way the truck is turning out and hopefully soon I'll take it to have body and paint work done for real.
cevKwsX.jpg


Still haven't got it running at full power yet but I did confirm that the throttle body is barely opening at WOT. Hopefully I can get my ecm flashed back to factory soon and then have HPtuners get my tune file usable so I can actually make use of my new engine!
Lookin good, ***** damn clean!

paint that valance asap.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
I got word from HPtuners yesterday that they released a beta update to get my tune file working so I had my friend flash me back to the Tahoe OS and I went to town. Turns out they did fix some of it but there are still tables I can't modify correctly so I gave up at first BUT then my boss wanted to mess with it and after an hour he had it running mostly safely so I can drive it for real as long as I'm nice to it while we wait for HPT to get their shit working again.
Lookin good, ***** damn clean!

paint that valance asap.
Thanks! I haven't decided for sure what's going to happen to the bumper areas but the grey lower valence drives me nuts. I think what I'm leaning towards now is leaving the chrome and having all the black plastics on the truck painted matte black so that 1) they match and 2) they look all clean and brand new again. I did a full color matched front end on my Duramax the first time around before I swapped the front end and I loved it but I think I like the contrast more on this front end like the GMC.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
HPtuners released another daily update and it appears to be completely fixed now so I gave tuning it another try. I took the factory tune from the 06 Escalade OS that I was running and compared to my 05 Tahoe calibrations and there are actually quite a lot of differences between the two in regards to how the different tables function so I copied what I could and did my best guess on the rest. So far it appears to drive GREAT but I've got a long way to go. I ordered a wideband and a bung so maybe Sunday if they arrive I'll get that welded in and installed so I can tune for really real.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Last night after work I looked under the truck and decided that the driver side was the easiest place to locate my O2 bung for the wideband so I pulled that header and dropped it off with my boss to have him weld it in. Hopefully tonight he'll have it done and I can put it back in but my guess is Friday.
nice looking truck
Thanks! I'm getting ready to take it to the body shop to have work done so I have to finalize what I want in my head, for now, and find an HD hood so I don't have to pay extra for that to be done separately.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Friday night was wideband time. My boss finished welding in my O2 bung and on his request I'm not showing you guys because it looked awful and he's embarassed BUT it works and by, "it works", I mean that there was only a small pinhole leak around the bung and I just slathered on some copper RTV sealant and it's probably totally fine... :D Anyway, here is the gauge in it's temporary home until I find it somewhere to live during tuning.
ZjMXQFq.jpg


After we got the wideband setup we spent WAY too long messing with these engine covers I got. I managed to find the two side pieces used on eBay for cheap and then I ordered the center cover new for $38. The right cover went right on and the center made us realize we needed to reroute the top harness slightly but the left was a huge PITA mainly because I had let the engine warm up while testing things. I think these were from a DBW truck as we had to cut some out from the left cover so that it would sit over the throttle body properly. Eventually we got it handled though and you can't see where we cut.
3T6PNM8.jpg


Yesterday it was sticker time!
XNT9G7Q.jpg


After that I decided it was finally time to do some annoying work. When I did the suspension work before and lowered the Tahoe I completely forgot to do the free travel mod so I jacked up the Tahoe and dropped the suspension. Look at my pretty springs! My friend noticed after I pulled the spring on the passenger side that it was actually contacting the frame where the bump stop bit was welded on and since we were cutting all that off anyway we made sure to clearance it on the inside of the frame so alleviate that issue.
tyqG3Xv.jpg


Here's one of the offending pieces.
OecqpnK.jpg


And first cut done.
93tbKfV.jpg


Of course I didn't take any more pictures of what I was actually trying to accomplish because that would be silly. Luckily for you guys I'm sure there are a hundred other build threads around with better shots. What I did do though was check my suspension travel and verified that my rear inner tires are rubbing the fender liners when near full compression and I saw marks that led me to check that. This means I'm likely to put a 1/2" spacer on the rears to get rid of that.
FLzximn.jpg


Finally as I was putting it all back together my friend remembered that I never installed my new sway bars so we at least broke out the rear and put it in. This thing is a BEAST. It is a solid bar, not a tube...
Z41zZXJ.jpg


In the end, the Tahoe rides significantly better in the rear over bumps. Is it as good as factory? No, but it's a hell of a lot better than before. I think the rear is in for new shocks to match the front before I go to Colorado in August and I want to get my SS brake lines done before then as well. If I get those two things done along with actually tuning my truck I think it should be a good trip to test it all out.
 

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
33,162
Reaction score
51,352
Location
Central Jersey
Which sway bar did you go with? I have 305 45's in the rear , that had the same issue--making contact when suspension was compresding. I hit the inner plastic liners with a heat gun and it was good to go. I was hitting the plastic that was covering the upper part of the shocks.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Which sway bar did you go with? I have 305 45's in the rear , that had the same issue--making contact when suspension was compresding. I hit the inner plastic liners with a heat gun and it was good to go. I was hitting the plastic that was covering the upper part of the shocks.
I got the DJM sway bar set, they are beastly. Mine is rubbing towards the front of the vehicle on the plastic liners and I could just modify the liners or cut them but I like the look with the rears matching the front track and these trucks always have a wider front.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Started out the weekend by replacing the license plate light housings since I got lazy and didn't take them out the safe way last time and broke one. After that I decided to try my new 1/2" wheel spacers which went as I guessed it would and required new longer studs. I found another thread on here where someone used Dorman 610-530 and they do indeed work perfectly for adding 1/2" spacers.
xlysekh.jpg

DnE9NF6.jpg


You can see here why I was so interested in getting them on. This is the driver side on the front of the wheel and it has chewed up the liner a LOT and you can see the bright spot where it's been rubbing against the frame where the upper arm is mounted.
xxOh2F5.jpg


Next was replacing the rear shocks to try and get the last bit of ride quality I could out of the rear. I went with KYB MonoMax shocks since I like how they ride on my lowered Duramax and they do more than I thought they would to help smooth out the ride over rough terrain and they look great in red matching the rest of my aftermarket suspension components.
Ewao3Tb.jpg


Front sway bar was last for the weekend, it is a real beast like the rear but it's not 3x heavier than the factory bar like the rear was either. Very easy swap.
0XLsqa2.jpg


You can see the passenger side has just the barest amount of poke and I love the look.
jfBRJQ8.jpg


Driver side has a little less but much better than before.
F7IboTM.jpg


I love this thing the more I work on it and get it closer to where I want it. Usually by this point in a project I've already ruined it by going to far and I just keep going to see if I can salvage it but so far this Tahoe just keeps getting better! It wasn't until late last night that I realized that the factory panhard bar was why I have more rubbing on the driver side and more tire poke on the passenger side and while it's "solved" for now I went ahead and ordered the Spohn panhard bar anyway to fix that. I am in love with the handling of the Tahoe now as the front sway really brings it all together and the rear shocks helped further calm down the rear end. Like I always do I added more to do so with the panhard bar I have coming I added the DJM front upper control arms to go ahead and fix my ball joint angles and since I had forgot to do it before I ordered new Moog heavy duty front sway end links. Once those 3 things are done I'll only have the SS brake lines and finishing my tune to do before my Colorado trip in August.

hovYHOa.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Well the Tahoe stranded me yesterday just as I was about to merge onto the highway at 4:40pm :thumbsup: I saw Reduced Engine Power and the a/c went hot as it slowed to a crawl and died. It would barely stay alive at idle with the a/c off and if I even pressed the brakes it would die. My wonderful new engine covers prevented me from accessing anything that I wanted to check on and of course my tool kit that I keep with the Tahoe was in the garage at home.

After AAA towed me home I found that the pigtail harness for the throttle body that was replaced on warranty was only connected with butt connectors and wasn't done how GM specified and doing nothing but fiddling with those I got it to start up and run perfectly again. I will be re-crimping and soldering all of those connections this weekend hopefully because that will not be the reason I am stranded again. Since I was already a little dirty I went ahead and re-routed the wiring for 12v for my wideband and re-routed the 5v and ground to be easily accessible to my HPtuners VCM so I can have it all nicely hidden when I'm not logging or tuning.
 

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
33,162
Reaction score
51,352
Location
Central Jersey
Well the Tahoe stranded me yesterday just as I was about to merge onto the highway at 4:40pm :thumbsup: I saw Reduced Engine Power and the a/c went hot as it slowed to a crawl and died. It would barely stay alive at idle with the a/c off and if I even pressed the brakes it would die. My wonderful new engine covers prevented me from accessing anything that I wanted to check on and of course my tool kit that I keep with the Tahoe was in the garage at home.

After AAA towed me home I found that the pigtail harness for the throttle body that was replaced on warranty was only connected with butt connectors and wasn't done how GM specified and doing nothing but fiddling with those I got it to start up and run perfectly again. I will be re-crimping and soldering all of those connections this weekend hopefully because that will not be the reason I am stranded again. Since I was already a little dirty I went ahead and re-routed the wiring for 12v for my wideband and re-routed the 5v and ground to be easily accessible to my HPtuners VCM so I can have it all nicely hidden when I'm not logging or tuning.
Who did the pigtail? A gm dealer?
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Who did the pigtail? A gm dealer?
Not sure because I've only had this Tahoe ~5 months but it IS a factory pigtail so my guess is that a dealer did it. Either way my roommate is sourcing the new crimp tool that GM wants used on current repairs and I'll crimp/solder/heatshrink it this time around to prevent it happening again.
 

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
33,162
Reaction score
51,352
Location
Central Jersey
Not sure because I've only had this Tahoe ~5 months but it IS a factory pigtail so my guess is that a dealer did it. Either way my roommate is sourcing the new crimp tool that GM wants used on current repairs and I'll crimp/solder/heatshrink it this time around to prevent it happening again.
I priced that pigtail through GM, my cost is $163! That's just for the pigtail. I bought mine from Amazon.
IMAG2266.jpg
IMAG2275.jpg
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Pigtail redone and it might just be in my head but I swear the pedal is more responsive. I know that these are very sensitive to resistance so it's totally possible but who knows.

First we remove the crappy crimp connectors that were oversized for the wiring and didn't hold it very well in the first place. Then we strip and crimp with the new GM crimp connectors.
hw534tW.jpg

lYkulWv.jpg


Then solder and heatshrink.
Ty6paqP.jpg

NauMRFj.jpg


Finally we wrap it all up with the super fancy fabric electrical tape and plug it back in!
Ep6Nrpk.jpg


I think the original tech that did the repair put each crimp at a different length so that there wouldn't be a giant bulge of crimp connectors in one spot so I just went with it instead of making them all the same, and then much shorter overall, length. Either way, I now feel much better about this truck making it to Colorado and back in a week and a half. Coming soon is panhard bar, front upper control arms along with an alignment and hopefully SS brake lines all before the trip.
 

PG01

Elite Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Posts
15,659
Reaction score
21,014
Location
Up here to the right
Normally do that when splicing stuff in, fits in wire loom better and less chance of things shorting if they come loose somehow.... not that yours will, but generally a good idea if you you have the slack in the wire to do it that way.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Normally do that when splicing stuff in, fits in wire loom better and less chance of things shorting if they come loose somehow.... not that yours will, but generally a good idea if you you have the slack in the wire to do it that way.
I like to as well. I guess I should have said that the original tech attempted to do this but it didn't turn out so well.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
My roommate took the Tahoe to work with him today to replace the oil pressure sensor for me since it was stuck at 4.59v and wasn't giving any useful information since I got stranded awhile back. He says it's not in my head that my tuning is making it feel noticeably better to drive and more powerful and I haven't even added any timing yet! :D
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
So while the Tahoe was with my roommate at the dealership he went ahead and started to put my SS brake lines on as a surprise and then my surprise turned out to be a text saying that my fronts were done but the rear caliper bleeder screws had both snapped clean off.
A08Jc9v.jpg


So off I went after work to O'Reilly's to get some reman calipers to replace them.
s0lJZ7l.jpg


While I was poking around I noticed a couple of things. 1: I still haven't put my new front end links on my new sway bar and 2: My tires rub my new sway bar and probably the old one so I may try a 1/4" spacer up front since I don't plan to change to a wheel with a different offset.
bkBQoTD.jpg


Still to come this week? Panhard bar, more tuning, a good interior clean and if I get really saucy then front UCAs and an alignment to match.
 
OP
OP
gtrslngrchris

gtrslngrchris

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Posts
194
Reaction score
313
Didn't get a lot of pics today because I wasn't planning on doing most of what I ended up working on and I was covered in grease pretty much the entire time BUT I went out to swap my panhard bar after getting the correct one in the mail and got that installed. Very easy job for anyone wondering and adjusting it is very easy as well.

aqScW8x.jpg


Then I decided to put the 1" spacers on the rear that came with my lowering kit to see if it would improve the ride in the rear even more and it REALLY did! I didn't get any pics but it's kind of boring seeing 2 plastic donuts get put on springs. This also gave me back the raked look that I love and while I was doing that I had to pull the wheels off. While doing that I decided I would rotate the tires since it had been too long since that needed done anyway and while doing that I decided I'd just go ahead and install the new DJM front upper control arms.

rcw2hVX.jpg


They look good, they seem to work well and overall the Tahoe does feel much better now. I want to talk some shit on DJM though because one of the control arms was not powdercoated very well, it was already flaking off in multiple spots NOT from poor handling in the box and during install a lot more came off so I just hit it with black spray paint to keep it from being exposed bare metal. In addition to that both the lowers and uppers all had powdercoat in the threads for the grease zerks which makes for a lot of unnecessary work to clean out the threads just to you can install the part when someone could spend 5 seconds putting something in the hole to prevent it in the first place.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,671
Posts
1,989,105
Members
102,675
Latest member
j_jerry79

Latest posts

Back
Top