"Adventure/Overland" Build Ideas

[Lutha]

I am considering making my 00 Tahoe into my adventure vehicle. Its a rusty old beast (from IL) with about 160,000, 5.3L, LT, 4x4, with premium ride suspension still in the back, and 3.73 gears (locking diff). I would like some thoughts about what to do with it and I'll try to break down my needs. But the basic conversation going on in my head is that if I'm going to spend this amount of money on this, why don't I do this too, and this and that, which ends up working towards a complete re-build. I'm not going to get into a big story, but this hoe has a history with me and I want to preserve her. To me, spending money on her is more preferable than buying new or newer and then putting a lot of money and time into that. I realize she might not be the best for this, but this truck has never let me down. Here's what I need to do:
1) Must be able to reliably handle "moderate" off-road trails/roads and be capable of some heavier stuff occasionally.
2) Needs to be able to handle an increased weight/load (perhaps a 1,000 lbs over stock) while still maintaining that off road capability.
3) It would be nice to maintain factory fuel efficiency if possible.
4) Performance and function are primary considerations, not looks.
5) Budget matters. Probably willing to put up to $20k in this beast if she will last me another 10 years doing what it needs to.

What I have been considering, and is what I would like thoughts on is the following: BDS 4.5 lift, runs roughly 5k installed locally, wheels/tires another $2k (treads are needed anyways, so...). This seems expensive to me for this rig right now. If I could accomplish increased clearance at a lower cost, that would be better. Any ideas?

 

[Martinjmpr]

For reliability I would modify as little as possible. Do you NEED a 4.5" lift? Big lift + big tires means you're putting a lot more stress on other components like CV joints. To say nothing of what it will do to your MPG.

If you can get by with a 2 - 3" key and spring/spacer lift (going to Z71 springs will net you about 2" right there) then that will lower your costs dramatically.

What size tires are you planning on running? You can easily run 33's with a simple key and spacer lift.

I'm running keys and Z71 springs (no spacers) on my '04 Burb and I think it's good enough for mild off-roading. I'd have no hesitation taking on the Mojave Road, White Rim Trail, the Alpine Loop or similar trails in it.

 

[Lutha]

For reliability I would modify as little as possible. Do you NEED a 4.5" lift? Big lift + big tires means you're putting a lot more stress on other components like CV joints. To say nothing of what it will do to your MPG.

If you can get by with a 2 - 3" key and spring/spacer lift (going to Z71 springs will net you about 2" right there) then that will lower your costs dramatically.

What size tires are you planning on running? You can easily run 33's with a simple key and spacer lift.

I'm running keys and Z71 springs (no spacers) on my '04 Burb and I think it's good enough for mild off-roading. I'd have no hesitation taking on the Mojave Road, White Rim Trail, the Alpine Loop or similar trails in it.

I had the truxx lift/level kit put on it with 5100s in front. The rear, with the spacers, bottomed out over speed bumps! Had that taken out and just had them level the front (keys) out. Yet still, that back end will ass out over nothing. I need more than that. And I have thought about replacing those nivomats in the back with springs and new shocks. Is this reliable and semi-rugged? Where to get this done? What do I need? Just the Z71 coils and new bilsteins? Alpine pass is a start btw! Don't think I would do that as she sits. I'm on the Front Range

 

[Lutha]

And tires would prolly be 33 min. That's what I'm thinking anyways for a trailer, but that is an entirely different conversation.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

I definitely recommend replacing the nivomat with new springs and shocks. The springs that come with nivomats are garb, and it'd be way cheaper to get new springs and shocks than to simply replace the nivomats.

 

[jarydM]

I had the truxx lift/level kit put on it with 5100s in front. The rear, with the spacers, bottomed out over speed bumps! Had that taken out and just had them level the front (keys) out. Yet still, that back end will ass out over nothing. I need more than that. And I have thought about replacing those nivomats in the back with springs and new shocks. Is this reliable and semi-rugged? Where to get this done? What do I need? Just the Z71 coils and new bilsteins? Alpine pass is a start btw! Don't think I would do that as she sits. I'm on the Front Range

Drop the current set up out of there and add z71 springs and use the bilstein 5100s in the back too. Rugged at speed and takes impact well, but doesnt try to launch you out of the seat going over a speed bump.

Depending on how well the truck has been maintained, I would focus first on maintenence items. Bushings and fittings up front, gaskets in engine, check for any other leaks. Plugs and plug wires, flush and fill fluids. Building an overland adventure vehicle is fun, and part of what I want from mine, but make sure everything else is in good shape. Spending 6k on a lift and tires means nothing when it breaks down because you missed a radiator leak, etc.

plus, these trucks are super easy to work on.

 

[Lutha]

Drop the current set up out of there and add z71 springs and use the bilstein 5100s in the back too. Rugged at speed and takes impact well, but doesnt try to launch you out of the seat going over a speed bump.

Depending on how well the truck has been maintained, I would focus first on maintenence items. Bushings and fittings up front, gaskets in engine, check for any other leaks. Plugs and plug wires, flush and fill fluids. Building an overland adventure vehicle is fun, and part of what I want from mine, but make sure everything else is in good shape. Spending 6k on a lift and tires means nothing when it breaks down because you missed a radiator leak, etc.

plus, these trucks are super easy to work on.

I've had her for about 7 years now and mechanically she is fit. Got rust, but mechanically sound. I am currently having some bushing issues in the front and the rear output seal of the transfer case (90% sure I am talking about the right seal) has been pesky over the years, but other than that she is pretty fit mechanically. Should note that this vehicle has always been in the family, so I know it's history from picking it up at the dealer.

So, back to suspension...I would like to start with the springs and shocks in the rear. It seems its a necessary item if I went with the lift anyways (at least the lift I'm considering). I was also going to do the control arms/bushings at the same time as lift. So, my calcs include those on cost of lift. Anyhoo...

Suspension is my first question. Other components to come later. I'm not joking when I say these mechanics out here look at me like I'm talking a foreign language when I tell them I DO NOT have auto ride, I have Smooth ride. I've sent them info, yet they persist! HAHA. What do I need for the Z71 conversion? Just the springs and new shocks? No welds, cuts, etc. Just plug and play?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Where in IL are you?

 

[Lutha]

Where in IL are you?

From IL, live in CO now

 

[MikeLade]

I'll be building my Escalade into a mild Overland rig in the next year or so.

Plans include custom bumpers and rock sliders as well as full skid plates underneath. Bumpers will be 3/16 plate. Front will house a winch and rear will have a dual swing out setup on it.

Suspension has keys and spacers for now but that will change. Hoping to work with BDS for a 4.5" kit for the front and a custom long arm setup for the rear.

I'll be running 285/70r17 for now as they are just over 33" tall and not 12.5 wide so it will help with fuel economy and on road handling.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

Yep, plug and play. It's an easy, and popular, swap for people wanting to lift, or get out of nivomats

 

[jarydM]

Good deal, I figured it was in the family, but it's always nice to know about a vehicle from the beginning. I only mention bushings and such, because once you lift, if any of those parts are near the end of their life, the new angles with the lift will promptly put them out. Lots of people here like the poly Bushings from Energy Suspensions.

Z71 is just a buy and swap, and not to hard so long as you have a 3ton jack, and some basic mechanic know how. Premium Sooth Ride is what my dad's truck has, and the shocks cost far too much for what they do.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Simplest lift would be keys for the front, and Z71 springs and spacers in the rear, along with shocks. I used a set of lift keys for a Ford Expedition, got me just about 3", and I have over half the threads remaining (they are indexed more than Chevy indexed keys, or Ford stock keys). Have the aforementioned Z71 springs and 2" spacer in mine, along with 3" longer rear sway bar links (for a Jeep Wrangler). For shocks, most on here recommend Bilsteins, but I got KYB MonoMax for mine (front extended for 2-5" of lift, and 2" spacers on stock length in the rear).

Am currently running 285/75/16's on 16x8 wheels, no rubbing at all. Some say you can fit a 295/75/16, or a 305/70/16. With some trimming, you could squeeze 315/75/16's.

If you need to do the brakes, I'd recommend doing the NNBS upgrade (front caliper brackets, calipers and rotors from a 07-13), but you'd need 17" wheels. If you're going that far, you can step up to 20's, and run 275/65/20's, just over 34", and probably not have to trim any sheetmetal.

If you need more tire, the easiest solution (and least expensive) would be to add a 3" body lift. Most don't care for the look of the frame showing, but if you have nerf bars or running boards, it'd hardly be noticeable. Then, you'd be able to clear 35x12.5's (16, 17 or 20" wheels) with no problem.

 

[MikeLade]

I did the nibs brake upgrade and my truck is hydroboost. Next will be braided hoses. I figure with 3/16" steel bumpers and the recovery gear on board, any extra braking power will be good.

 

[Lutha]

Good deal, I figured it was in the family, but it's always nice to know about a vehicle from the beginning. I only mention bushings and such, because once you lift, if any of those parts are near the end of their life, the new angles with the lift will promptly put them out. Lots of people here like the poly Bushings from Energy Suspensions.

Z71 is just a buy and swap, and not to hard so long as you have a 3ton jack, and some basic mechanic know how. Premium Sooth Ride is what my dad's truck has, and the shocks cost far too much for what they do.

Thanks a lot. What bushings are you referring to exactly? Reason that I ask is that I am wondering if it would be wise to replace anything else in the back as I'm doing the shocks and springs?

 

[Lutha]

Simplest lift would be keys for the front, and Z71 springs and spacers in the rear, along with shocks. I used a set of lift keys for a Ford Expedition, got me just about 3", and I have over half the threads remaining (they are indexed more than Chevy indexed keys, or Ford stock keys). Have the aforementioned Z71 springs and 2" spacer in mine, along with 3" longer rear sway bar links (for a Jeep Wrangler). For shocks, most on here recommend Bilsteins, but I got KYB MonoMax for mine (front extended for 2-5" of lift, and 2" spacers on stock length in the rear).

Am currently running 285/75/16's on 16x8 wheels, no rubbing at all. Some say you can fit a 295/75/16, or a 305/70/16. With some trimming, you could squeeze 315/75/16's.

If you need to do the brakes, I'd recommend doing the NNBS upgrade (front caliper brackets, calipers and rotors from a 07-13), but you'd need 17" wheels. If you're going that far, you can step up to 20's, and run 275/65/20's, just over 34", and probably not have to trim any sheetmetal.

If you need more tire, the easiest solution (and least expensive) would be to add a 3" body lift. Most don't care for the look of the frame showing, but if you have nerf bars or running boards, it'd hardly be noticeable. Then, you'd be able to clear 35x12.5's (16, 17 or 20" wheels) with no problem.

Why the extended rear sway bar links? And what rear spacers did you use?

 

[Lutha]

I did the nibs brake upgrade and my truck is hydroboost. Next will be braided hoses. I figure with 3/16" steel bumpers and the recovery gear on board, any extra braking power will be good.

I am totally interested in your build. You'll literally be Cadillac camping! Sweet! Don't know if that is a widely used term, but that is what I refer to car camping as (sans Cadillac). I have already done a complete brake job with stock components, so I won't be doing that upgrade anytime soon. You planning to install custom bumpers or have something else in mind? I have only found one front so far that fits our rig and caught my interest and that was an ARB for like $1500

 

[Lutha]

I am also wondering at what point do you need to worry about gearing? That is, if you put heavier wheels and tires on, when does gearing become a concern or is it at all?

 

[MadDogDelpho]

From what I've heard, gearing isn't all that necessary until you get up to 35s or 37s, and a 6+ inch lift. I think the common bushings that start to wear out are the ball joints in the upper and lower control arms on your front end, as well as your CV joints depending on your angles.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Why the extended rear sway bar links? And what rear spacers did you use?

The extended links are to keep the angles of the rear sway bar close to factory, and provide "close to factory" handling. You don't need to run them (I didn't on my '01 Suburban), but I do on my '04 Yukon XL. But for $20, well worth the "why not?" factor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rough-C...ngler-07-17-/282394293097?hash=item41c002f369

And as far as shock spacers, I just used these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Shock-...c-2000-2006-/271840977220?hash=item3f4afc2144