What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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95escahoe

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The Escalade engine cover came today

416a9ab1feeb7ce321e820bbc259b407.jpg


51b737d2851529e73d8727a0e3056e22.jpg



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TheAutumnWind

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Got any place I should be looking for this? I don't want to spend a fortune but I want it done right if that's possible. Is knukoncepts a good place to look?
knuconcepts has good stuff. Their budget line, while decent is not 100% OFC it is cca BTW. They have 100% OFC. I'd just get welding wire instead of paying extra for "Audio supercalifragilisticexpialidocious cable"
 

massivespl

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Got any place I should be looking for this? I don't want to spend a fortune but I want it done right if that's possible. Is knukoncepts a good place to look?

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Wiring-Update-Systems-XBG3PK/dp/B00KVOLFT0

Tinned OFC. That kit will do. Any named brand company will do. Just make sure it's tinned OFC wire so it won't corrord.

I have EB welding wire in my truck. It's not tinned but it's like 99.7% peer cooper and hasn't corroded yet and it's been thruough two Michigan winters.
 

Rocket Man

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knuconcepts has good stuff. Their budget line, while decent is not 100% OFC it is cca BTW. They have 100% OFC. I'd just get welding wire instead of paying extra for "Audio supercalifragilisticexpialidocious cable"
They have 1/0 tinned OFC for 3.50/ foot. That 's not bad is it as far as price? I just need to know how much I need for a Big 3 on my Yukon. And looks like I need a fuse too.
 

Tonyrodz

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Went to a driveshaft place, who said they can't do much until I do something with the y pipe. If I was able to fix or move the y, they'd build a custom shaft, which would be thinner, but just as thick walled, using my old part that goes into the transfer case(forgot what it's called) for what I consider a reasonable price. But that damn y pipe! It's in the way of the prop shaft, along with a header tube. I go to one exhaust place who wasn't any help at all. This is what I'm working with.
IMAG1648.jpg
Almost hits the tube, and once the shaft is in, the universal will def hit the tube, so it would need to be dimpled.
IMAG1649.jpg
Can't really tell from this pic, but the y is at least 1 1/2" over the dip in the cross member for the prop shaft. Just plain tight, and I don't want to squash the y, what would've been the sense of getting it if I did that! Defeats the purpose Imo.
IMAG1659.jpg
Just so damn tight.
IMAG1653.jpg
 

Tonyrodz

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Speed Engineering isn't any help? Seems they're responsible for their y-pipe being in the way.
Not really. All they said is no one has ever had a problem, and if there was a problem, it would be my motor mounts. My motor mounts are fine. Two different mechanics checked them. They also said if it didn't fit right to just return it. Really? Great, I would if it wasn't already on and I actually need it to drive the damn truck! Sooooo helpful.
 

massivespl

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Did you get a fuse holder. And what did you use for terminals- solder or crimp only?

U don't have to run a fuse. I don't fuse anything in my truck. Some people do andnsome don't. My factory power wire doesn't have a fuse on it from the factory that way.
 

95escahoe

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Went to a driveshaft place, who said they can't do much until I do something with the y pipe. If I was able to fix or move the y, they'd build a custom shaft, which would be thinner, but just as thick walled, using my old part that goes into the transfer case(forgot what it's called) for what I consider a reasonable price. But that damn y pipe! It's in the way of the prop shaft, along with a header tube. I go to one exhaust place who wasn't any help at all. This is what I'm working with. View attachment 74821Almost hits the tube, and once the shaft is in, the universal will def hit the tube, so it would need to be dimpled. View attachment 74822Can't really tell from this pic, but the y is at least 1 1/2" over the dip in the cross member for the prop shaft. Just plain tight, and I don't want to squash the y, what would've been the sense of getting it if I did that! Defeats the purpose Imo. View attachment 74824Just so damn tight. View attachment 74825

How did yours compare to that guy with the Escalade that ran the same kit? His seemed to work just a tight fit


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TheAutumnWind

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U don't have to run a fuse. I don't fuse anything in my truck. Some people do andnsome don't. My factory power wire doesn't have a fuse on it from the factory that way.

Its a fusible link. So yeah there is a fuse. Is it 100% necessary? I suppose not, but I chose to spend the extra $10 for a fuse. Seems like cheap insurance in case it grounds out against something.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Did you get a fuse holder. And what did you use for terminals- solder or crimp only?

I'd get an ANL fuse holder. I ran this: but didnt love it becuase the cover was kind of loose.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSKYNSC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The knuconcepts one looks nice:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-...=1487394279&sr=1-8&keywords=1/0+anl+fuse&th=1

I only crimped. With the hydraulic crimper that I posted awhile back its very solid. Basically a cold weld, no way those things are coming off, and excellent contact. Definitely recommend going that route.
 

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