What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Pachanga02

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Ordered some new shrouds from TRS to update my retro. Went with panamera switchbacks this time.
 

Austinite

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Re did some of the bigger ends of the electronics on the abs module. Not sure if it will make a difference. Cleaned out all the old silicone, that is what took the most time. Went over with a exacto knife to get huge pieces. Than a dremel and finally some acytone. Used some isopropanol on the circuits just to clean up whatever oil I left. Ran a bead of silicone, let it set for about 30. Re-installed.

Started the car. The light was off! Pulled out of the garage and it was back on. I'll see if I can send it in now. Or pick and pull.

Might be a dumb question, but if I send off the ABS module would I still be able to drive the truck without jacking it up? Thanks to everyone that chimed in.
Be sure to pull your ABS fuse from under the hood too. And some places might not take a unit that has been previously opened and messed with btw. So a donor from the pick-n-pull might be in order.
 

Bombsquad85

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That looks great! What did you use to color match the bumper and also do you plan on using HID or stock bulbs in the headlights?

I used duplicolor color match and spraymaxx 2k clear

Stock bulbs for now. I might get HIDS but I'm also thinking about doing a. Retrofit on themy it looks so easy to do. But I will say when properly aimed. These lights are a huge improvement over my old stock ones. But they took some time to aim
 
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mattbta

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Re did some of the bigger ends of the electronics on the abs module. Not sure if it will make a difference. Cleaned out all the old silicone, that is what took the most time. Went over with a exacto knife to get huge pieces. Than a dremel and finally some acytone. Used some isopropanol on the circuits just to clean up whatever oil I left. Ran a bead of silicone, let it set for about 30. Re-installed.

Started the car. The light was off! Pulled out of the garage and it was back on. I'll see if I can send it in now. Or pick and pull.

Might be a dumb question, but if I send off the ABS module would I still be able to drive the truck without jacking it up? Thanks to everyone that chimed in.

So it seems my intuition was right, your ABS module is for active brake control. I found GM part number 15234605 and putting that in google images brings up a match to the pic you posted. If you're going to pull from a junk yard, might want to make sure they match. JL4 is the RPO code on my 2004 for active brake control/stabilitrak.
 

jcevans7

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So progress has been made. Got rid of on the c codes for the abs module. Still have C0040 which is the front right wheel speed sensor. I checked it with my multimeter and it is fine. I am getting the proper level of resistance from it. So my next idea is that the Hub might be going bad. The Hub Holt the wheel speed sensor is fine. I know that's not the right word for it and I can't think of it right now. It's the rigid piece that detects when the wheel is spinning. Found a picture online but even that doesn't show the spline that I'm talking about. I also know if the air gap is off from the wheel speed sensor it will throw up the error code. But I have no idea how to check it does anyone else?
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05Single

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Ordered some new shrouds from TRS to update my retro. Went with panamera switchbacks this time.
Did I miss a post? You gonna use yukon heads or denali heads?

Btw the sexiest shrouds ever made.
 
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TheAutumnWind

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I also believe the pink is a material designed to help the metal case dissipate heat without making electrical contact, which would cause short circuits. And although there aren't any obvious broken solder joints, I can say from previous electronics experience that there may be what are known as cold solder joints, which cause poor connections. You could try reflowing all the bigger ones by adding heat and solder. Don't try resoldering any of the surface mounted components or they will either fall off or get damaged. It needs to be completely sealed when you put it back together also or it will corrode. Your main problem now is that a repair place won't want to touch it

Couldnt you just reflow them in an oven? I've done that with old motherboards and brought them back from the dead.
 

Tonyrodz

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Nothing like being a homeowner. I used to be, now I rent a house from people who live to just collect the rent every month. They don't do squat, and we pay for EVERYTHING! But we do have a garage, that's packed, and nobody bothers us. Enjoy the new digs! :happy107:
 

05Single

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I havent really done anything and Can't do anything at the moment to the Hoe. But got her a new home and heated parking. All mod money is occupied until the end of Feb.

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SOLD!!! congrats:cheers:

Thank you. It will be a good feeling to get out of this apartment life again. Will be nice to have somewhereto actually tinker with my long list of stuff I want to do.
I like the sound of that . Can't wait
 

Rocket Man

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So progress has been made. Got rid of on the c codes for the abs module. Still have C0040 which is the front right wheel speed sensor. I checked it with my multimeter and it is fine. I am getting the proper level of resistance from it. So my next idea is that the Hub might be going bad. The Hub Holt the wheel speed sensor is fine. I know that's not the right word for it and I can't think of it right now. It's the rigid piece that detects when the wheel is spinning. Found a picture online but even that doesn't show the spline that I'm talking about. I also know if the air gap is off from the wheel speed sensor it will throw up the error code. But I have no idea how to check it does anyone else?View attachment 72518View attachment 72519

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I thought you were having issues with your Abs module? If so, you need to fix that first since that may be what's causing your codes.
 

jcevans7

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I thought you were having issues with your Abs module? If so, you need to fix that first since that may be what's causing your codes.
Had to c codes. C0265 i think it was and c0040 is the other. C0265 is gone. Able to fix that last night when I read flowed the soder. Still have the c0040. Just replaced the wheel sensor no less than a month. Tested it again today. I keep reading about the air gap between the sensor and the piece in the Hub. No idea how to check that gap. Thinking the Hub is next unless it can break open to replace the abs gear.

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pnwdan

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Had to c codes. C0265 i think it was and c0040 is the other. C0265 is gone. Able to fix that last night when I read flowed the soder. Still have the c0040. Just replaced the wheel sensor no less than a month. Tested it again today. I keep reading about the air gap between the sensor and the piece in the Hub. No idea how to check that gap. Thinking the Hub is next unless it can break open to replace the abs gear.

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Front hub?
 

jcevans7

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Front hub?
Yah front passenger. Been jacking with it most the day. Done now. Bout to research what i can tonight. Hope I'm making sense. Also. FYI. Only my break light is on now with that code. The abs light is off now.


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pnwdan

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Yah front passenger. Been jacking with it most the day. Done now. Bout to research what i can tonight. Hope I'm making sense. Also. FYI. Only my break light is on now with that code. The abs light is off now.


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I've never replaced the sensor by itself but I have replaced the hub. It's fairly easy
 

eohat

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I picked up an NNBS Tahoe rear visor on ebay to mount on my NBS. It’s going to take some modifications to get it to fit but the roof line matches exactly. The ends will have to be reworked to match the curvature of the glass, so I picked up a sheet of 1/8” thick ABS plastic to do some plastic welding. I’ll probably be swapping the rear glass to the ’05-06 second design since it has three similar mounting holes like the NNBS glass.
I guess a few of us had the same idea. :cheers:
 
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