Yukon Down, AWD delete, headers, converter etc...

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ScottyBoy

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Even though melting that plastic back together would seem like a good repair, if it were me I would also put some clear epoxy glue on each "finger" on top of the repaired areas. To basically act like a double repair. Just for extra measure I guess.
 
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01ssreda4

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Even though melting that plastic back together would seem like a good repair, if it were me I would also put some clear epoxy glue on each "finger" on top of the repaired areas. To basically act like a double repair. Just for extra measure I guess.

Not all plastic repairs the same, obviously as its chemical composition varies. Ive found that plastic with an ABS base like this is bonds very well. If needed in the past ive added abs during the process, much like metal welding. You melt both sides to be bonded then melt a filler strip, and while they are all hot you get them mixed then let them cool. The bond is very strong, but it is a slow tedious process. Having a strong mechanical and welding background I'm very comfortable with this process ive taught myself. I originally tried it on a set of atv plastics, which were oit of production so they were near impossible to find. It worked so well ive used it ever since. It does not work on urethane based panels like some automotive bumpers however....perhaps the iron just doesnt get hot enough im not sure.
 

subieworx

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Did you have to do anything to the TCU to get this to work? Any error messages on the dash?
 
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01ssreda4

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No, the awd system isnt controlled by the computer.
 

sickk23

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Nice write up!! The Denali is looking really good!


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chevyv8

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what wheels are on the Yukon?

also - for future reference, you do not need to pull the front off the crv to replace the compressor, it will come out of the bottom between the block and the front subframe. no need to pull any accessory of the engine either, just the belt off the compressor.
 
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01ssreda4

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U255s are the wheels. The bumper on the crv is retarded easy to get off. I couldnt see how to slip the compressor out so I just pulled the bumper. Man it is tight in there. The engine engineering didnt work with the chassis engineering.
 
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01ssreda4

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Hit up Test And Tune Friday night. The truck actually towed decently with the lowering kit (trailer properly loaded of course), and the new found power (headers, tune, awd delete) was really noticeable.

20161021_180859_zpsqedesprp.jpg
 

chevyv8

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thanks for the response on the wheels. are they +30mm offset? reason I ask is that is the wheel I found the other day while looking for replacement 22" wheels. my current 22's are beyond looking horrible and I am in need of new wheels. seeing your truck has solidified my wanting them. truck looks good

as for the crv - I am very much well aware of the confined space of them things. I work on them everyday. I'm a certified master Honda tech. been under and through them for the last 16 years. obviously you know your way around a car - but if you ever need anything that you cant get (bulletins, service news, tech line help, audio code blah blah or just general help on them hit me up) be more than happy to help if I can.

love the Camaro too! I had an 01 ss that I reluctantly sold back in 09. car was a beast! triple black, 6spd man, ttop, loaded with slp stuff. built to 650 hp too. I built that car and miss it everyday. big cam (trex) fast, z06 heads, qtp headers, dual cutouts, slp exhaust, built 6sp, 9" rear with spool and 4.56 gears - miss it
 
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01ssreda4

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Yes I believe they were 30mm. I actually bought the setup from a wheel vendor on ebay, shipped already mounted and balanced and theyve been great....and even for cheap tires theyve done good.
 
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01ssreda4

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So I noticed when loaded these djm springs are a little on the soft side. The stockers even with with the auto leveling not working still handled load well. I knew I needed to address this. I inquired about an air spring kit for lowered vehicles and they told me I need to measure. Once I got my measurement I ordered a custom fit kit for the rear coil springs. I figured it would be a good time to retire the probably original 200k mile shocks also.

20170108_160709_zpska0hayd0.jpg


20170107_162134_zpsgdp2pp9a.jpg


Here is a pic of the stock shocks with the blown out air bladders plus the compressor that was mouted to the framerail.

20170108_132046_zpspdaprox1.jpg


Here is the rear end sagging, and the new air spring helper installed.

20170108_140047_zpsl7edmfbt.jpg


I routed the lines, T'd them together and ran it to a schrader valve i installed near the hitch. They fill up really quick with the shop compressor, think bycicle tire quick.

20170108_143313_zpskibrwzfr.jpg


Driving/Towing results to come.
 

subieworx

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I did the same but am using airlifts controller/compressor combo and love it. Three pressure presets and monitors pressure to hold it steady. I found without it the system would leak down over a week or so and faster when towing.
 
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01ssreda4

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Just checked mine yesterday, its been holding 15psi since the initial install. Lets hope it stays that way.
 

subieworx

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That's awesome. I have checked for leaks multiple times and can never find anything. With the current airlift compressor setup it runs in the morning for about 2 seconds when I first start the truck and that is it to maintain 5 psi in the bags.
 

svtthis

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Awesome thread! Thanks for putting this together. So to delete the awd you would need just a 2wd driveshaft and a 2wd crossmember?
 

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