Yukon Denali XL (2011) - Radiator Replacement - Oil Cooler Line Issue

[Tahoescostalot]

First I would check that the new fitting fits the oil line.

Second, I am a little concerned that you don't have an OSC radiator. OSC claims to use the same plate cooler as stock, and that cooler and fitting don't look like the pictures from OSC.

I see your point on the plate. I'll send a picture to the OSC rep i spoke with at OSC and see if he can confirm if they have a different style. He seemed to validate it was an OSC radiator using a sticker on the top rail with a code.

 

[swathdiver]

Ahh, I just saw the part about the OP using an aftermarket radiator. This is why many of us shy away from them.

 

[Tahoescostalot]

Ahh, I just saw the part about the OP using an aftermarket radiator. This is why many of us shy away from them.

Was willing to try OEM, but OSC seemed to be well reviewed.

Also, OEM one seemed to only at places that tack on an addition ~$100 for shipped, which was difficult to take. Summit Racing was decent price, $265 + $10 shipping, but they are backordered for a month.

 

[swathdiver]

Was willing to try OEM, but OSC seemed to be well reviewed.

Also, OEM one seemed to only at places that tack on an addition ~$100 for shipped, which was difficult to take. Summit Racing was decent price, $265 + $10 shipping, but they are backordered for a month.

I get a lot of discounts on parts by buying stuff on the internet. However, I have resigned myself to not buy a radiator online and have it shipped. I'll pony up at the dealer for that one to ensure it is not damaged before installation.

I think you just need to keep wiggling and pushing that line in. If you do replace the in tank fitting, loosen and replace them one at a time so the oil cooler doesn't fall to the bottom of the tank.

 

[Tahoescostalot]

to avoid any further hassle and get the truck running again, purchased radiator from dealer ($330 before tax). Sending the OSC back.

Do you guys recommend doing a flush after the new install or just refilling it with the premix coolant? Truck has around 125K miles on it.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

to avoid any further hassle and get the truck running again, purchased radiator from dealer ($330 before tax). Sending the OSC back.

Do you guys recommend doing a flush after the new install or just refilling it with the premix coolant? Truck has around 125K miles on it.

I was just gonna ask this. I think the flush should be with the old radiator so you don't contaminate the new one but I'm not sure

 

[Tahoescostalot]

The OEM radiator went in smoothly. Night and day difference when trying to get in the oil cooler lines, slide right in. For those replacing their radiator, make sure you get one with OEM fittings.

Also, checked with the manufacturer of the aftermarket radiator i first used. They confirmed i had a legit radiator, but the reason mine didn't have OEM fittings was they produced a limited amount during the pandemic with non-OEM fittings (due to supply chain issues). Looks like i was unlucky and got one of those.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

The OEM radiator went in smoothly. Night and day difference when trying to get in the oil cooler lines, slide right in. For those replacing their radiator, make sure you get one with OEM fittings.

Also, checked with the manufacturer of the aftermarket radiator i first used. They confirmed i had a legit radiator, but the reason mine didn't have OEM fittings was they produced a limited amount during the pandemic with non-OEM fittings (due to supply chain issues). Looks like i was unlucky and got one of those.

Unfortunate indeed. It takes a long time to build a brand and short time to loose it. I can understand sourcing a second supplier, but using a part that doesn't fit seems worse than just simply back-ordering.

 

[MassHoe04]

I did cooling system on my 05 Jeep Rubicon. When I did, I had the radiator removed. The upper an lower hoses were disconnected. I flushed the worst out of the block with a garden hose. Chunks of rust and filth came out the lower hose for a minute or so. I ran the hose until water ran clear.

I know... It was not distilled! But... Once gravity drained most of the hose water out, I was filling the block/water pump/hoses and radiator core with 50/50 mixed coolant. The trace of water I left in the block was small enough, I considered it nothing to worry about. Compared to the volume of fluid I was adding, there was practically nothing left behind that could do any damage to the system. A few molecules at best. Was fine...

It was one way to flush the block and not get ANY of the crud in my new radiator!

 

[houstontaylor]

This is kind of a long shot but if the engine mount on that side goes it can result in interference between the lines and the steering linkages because the engine sits lower. So maybe also the connection to the radiator?

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Was willing to try OEM, but OSC seemed to be well reviewed.

Also, OEM one seemed to only at places that tack on an addition ~$100 for shipped, which was difficult to take. Summit Racing was decent price, $265 + $10 shipping, but they are backordered for a month.

Installed a Murray Radiator on Saturday into my wife's 2013 Tahoe (MHT 434090). Best 4-hours of my life... NOT!
Lots of sharp edges to tear into my arms as I navigated to the cooling fan plugs, cooler line clips and such. So sharp you don't feel it, you just notice that there's blood on stuff and wonder: "where did that come from?" Thanks GM!

The trans cooler lines snapped into the new radiator easily, however the engine oil cooler lines were definitely tougher. (They are larger diameter than the trans cooler lines, which may explain why more force is required)
First attempt - Couldn't get them to slide in far enough. The new spring clips are apparently very stiff and were binding on the line's taper preventing them from going far enough in to lock.

Added some engine oil to the surface of each line & tried again. A combination of considerable pressure and wiggling and each line reluctantly clicked into place. Also twisted and tugged each line just to make certain they were locked into place... all good.
Adding the oil definitely helped.

BTW - No need to flush a new radiator.

 

[Doubeleive]

The OEM radiator went in smoothly. Night and day difference when trying to get in the oil cooler lines, slide right in. For those replacing their radiator, make sure you get one with OEM fittings.

Also, checked with the manufacturer of the aftermarket radiator i first used. They confirmed i had a legit radiator, but the reason mine didn't have OEM fittings was they produced a limited amount during the pandemic with non-OEM fittings (due to supply chain issues). Looks like i was unlucky and got one of those.

if you have ran it to 125k and never flushed it then ya it needs to be flushed, this is something I always recommend doing annually, regardless of mileage. For no other reason than coolant breaks down chemically, you can see it happen. people will argue it's fine. that's fine to have your own opinion, it's just my recommendation.