you could always spray some starter fluid in it just to see if it even runs for a second or two
Yet another crank no start...strange
- Thread starter res02p35
- Start date
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New battery, it's all good there.
10 minutes, I'm sure old injector is leaking.
Once I get it running I will pull it into my shop and replace those.
Tried that, no go
If it won't run at all with starting fluid then maybe distributor, timing or something is wrong. Did it even run for a second?
Been a long time since I messed with a obs, Sundays are kind of dead around here more people will chime in tomorrow I'm sure..
Did you get the obd port fixed?
strutaeng
Full Access Member
The advantage of a new MPFI set is you get the entire assembly including a new FPR.
The other thing I had an issue with my 4.3 is it developed a crank-no-start under wet/damp conditions. In the mornings in the Spring and wet days or with morning dew, it was guaranteed it was not going to start.
Engine seemingly had everything to start including spark, fuel pressure that held, etc. That's where I would swap some known good parts from the 5.7 from my other truck like ICM and coil. Numerous cap and rotors. I suspected the distributer, which had been replaced by my mechanic at some point. But I didn't want to invest in a distributor because engine had low oil pressure so I gave up and truck got retired from daily duties.
Yes, when I tried starter fluid it attempted to fire off but died right away.
Just put on a new fuel filter, gained 3 psi, so I am now at 58, with it falling off a little like before.
When I checked for spark it was yellow across several cylinders. Might just be the ICM.
I will get the ICM tomorrow, once it's installed I will update this thread.
Thanks guys!!
Just put on a new fuel filter, gained 3 psi, so I am now at 58, with it falling off a little like before.
When I checked for spark it was yellow across several cylinders. Might just be the ICM.
I will get the ICM tomorrow, once it's installed I will update this thread.
Thanks guys!!
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Maybe just go ahead and replace the coil if the spark doesn't look too strong? I think the ICM controls like the spark timing, but the actual spark is created by the coil. The Haynes manual has a procedure for checking coil resistance. I never recall having a failed coil, however. But did have an ICM and distributer fail.
I like those little spark testers with the adjustable gap to confirm spark is good and strong.
Probably worthwhile to ensure the distributer spins by having the cap removed. Inspect for play too. The the gears wear out...
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Got it going,
After I added the ICM was trying to start but it wouldn't start, I then add a new coil. After a couple times it fired up and ran well.
I was able to pull several codes, one was MAF, another was temp sensor. But the one that stands out was low voltage at the ICM.
I cleared them all and will put some miles on it to see where I'm at.
Thanks fir all the help guys, I really appreciate it!!
After I added the ICM was trying to start but it wouldn't start, I then add a new coil. After a couple times it fired up and ran well.
I was able to pull several codes, one was MAF, another was temp sensor. But the one that stands out was low voltage at the ICM.
I cleared them all and will put some miles on it to see where I'm at.
Thanks fir all the help guys, I really appreciate it!!
