loulblades
Full Access Member
Just so both ends come in contact with the metal pins in the connector housing.
Wiring harness help
- Thread starter magnahoe
- Start date
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Just so both ends come in contact with the metal pins in the connector housing.
didn't know the t case didn't have power
What do you thinks wrong with mine, I have power to the t case but actuator doesn't engage. It didn't work after the new harness and actuator was put in. You think its the t case switch or tccm?
You want to pm me the link your post on the site we don't talk about on here.
bsamoul
Hoe Enthusiast
bsamoul
Hoe Enthusiast
What second splice? The old actuator cord goes to the new one, and the brown wire gets connected to IGN?
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loulblades
Full Access Member
Yes the new harness has a 2 pin connector that plugs into the connector that went to the old actuator.
When done there will be 2 wires with a connector on the end coming from the front diff (the prox sensor) that goes nowhere (unless you cut it off).
When done there will be 2 wires with a connector on the end coming from the front diff (the prox sensor) that goes nowhere (unless you cut it off).
loulblades
Full Access Member
So I am making some assumptions:
1. You didn't cut the connector off that plugged into the connector that went to the diff sensor.
2. You spiced the black/white wire behind that old connector.
If you are saying that the light goes off when you plug in the sensor that would be an indicator that the feedback circuit wiring to the TCCM is ok.
If you have a meter or light and can monitor the voltage on the black/white wire it should change between 0 and 12 volts when the system is engaged/disengaged. If it doesn't, that would indicate the actuator is not sending it's feedback that it is engaged. If it does change voltage, that would indicate your splice is bad.
In reality though, using the prox sensor instead of the actuator output wouldn't be a bad thing. It was the actuator that was the weak link in that system.
1. You didn't cut the connector off that plugged into the connector that went to the diff sensor.
2. You spiced the black/white wire behind that old connector.
If you are saying that the light goes off when you plug in the sensor that would be an indicator that the feedback circuit wiring to the TCCM is ok.
If you have a meter or light and can monitor the voltage on the black/white wire it should change between 0 and 12 volts when the system is engaged/disengaged. If it doesn't, that would indicate the actuator is not sending it's feedback that it is engaged. If it does change voltage, that would indicate your splice is bad.
In reality though, using the prox sensor instead of the actuator output wouldn't be a bad thing. It was the actuator that was the weak link in that system.
What I did was use crimp connectors and connected the old connector from the old actuator to the new harness. ( cut off the one that came with the harness and used the actuator harness so it would plug in) what your saying is that I should be able to leave the prox sensor unglued and the system should work? I'm thinking its one of three things, my connection, bad actuator, or the guy screwed up wiring it. I'm going to grab a test light tomorrow and see if the actuator is getting power to it, I should be able to narrow the problem down.
After I figure the 4x4 out on to the manifold gasket, that tick pisses me off so much.
bsamoul
Hoe Enthusiast
OK did quite a bit of work tonight.
Jacked the car up and tested. No 4WD, BUT front drive shaft is spinning, so I'm thinking something inside the differential is shot because I pulled the acuator out and tested it and it worked fine. So I know my problem lies somewhere in my diff. Any ideas?
Jacked the car up and tested. No 4WD, BUT front drive shaft is spinning, so I'm thinking something inside the differential is shot because I pulled the acuator out and tested it and it worked fine. So I know my problem lies somewhere in my diff. Any ideas?
loulblades
Full Access Member
To be honest I am a little confused on what you are saying.
Just to reiterate:
The connector that plugged into the old actuator (2 pin) should have plugged into the 2 pin connector on the new harness. The only splices should be the black/white wire and the brown wire.
What I was saying was that if you forget about the black/white wire coming from the new harness (tape it off) and keep your original connection to the diff sensor (2 pin connectors) it should work that way. In fact IMHO it would be better because the sensor indicates when the diff is actually engaged whereas the new actuator output only indicates that the actuator is extended.
Not sure what you meant by "leave the prox sensor unglued".
---------- Post added at 10:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:09 AM ----------
How did you test it? By connecting 12 volts to it or pulling it out and watching it extend when you press the 4WD button?
Let me know.
bsamoul
Hoe Enthusiast
I pulled it out and hit the button and it extended.
loulblades
Full Access Member
If your front drive shaft is providing power as you previously mentioned and the actuator is operating well...that is not good. This is of course an indication that the front diff (one of the more expensive parts in this system) is not transferring power to the wheels.
I don't exactly know how the front diff engages (some type of yoke pushing a gear I would guess) but I have the service manual set if you want me to check it out. Either way, it would appear the front diff is in need of repair/replacement.
bsamoul
Hoe Enthusiast
I have a Hayes manual but it doesn't tell me anything about the front diff or anything about the four wheel drive system. It's appearing to be useless to me. Do you have a GM service manual for technicians or something?
loulblades
Full Access Member
Yes. Bought it on ebay. It is a 4 or 5 volume set.
