Window Switch Weirdness

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hogman23

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Guys,

I need some help. All of a sudden a few weeks ago my driver window stopped working. Naturally, I thought it was the motor and replaced it, only to be disappointed that it still didn't work. So, I figured out it was the switch cluster in the drivers side door. So I ordered a new one and put it in. Here is where the weirdness comes in....now the drivers window rolls down, but none of the other three work, nor do the locks or anything else. What the heck?
 

swathdiver

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Guys,

I need some help. All of a sudden a few weeks ago my driver window stopped working. Naturally, I thought it was the motor and replaced it, only to be disappointed that it still didn't work. So, I figured out it was the switch cluster in the drivers side door. So I ordered a new one and put it in. Here is where the weirdness comes in....now the drivers window rolls down, but none of the other three work, nor do the locks or anything else. What the heck?

If you replaced the entire cluster, it needs to be programmed. Use only GM OE switches, not Dorman or whatever. There's a guy on ebay selling the factory switches from the same factory in Mexico that makes them for GM and they of course work just fine.

So who do you know with a Tech-2? Are you the original owner?
 

ivin74

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Yes, it is a Bosch OEM just like what was in it originally.

Did the switch you took off work at all?
Test the wires for current, I might be wrong but for every window switch should have one wire to power it up and one wire power it down. You should have power going in all the times to the main board and when the switch is trigger, power should be sent to the power down wire or power up wire. If no power is going in either direction you have a bad switch/module within the switch.
 

ivin74

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If you replaced the entire cluster, it needs to be programmed. Use only GM OE switches, not Dorman or whatever. There's a guy on ebay selling the factory switches from the same factory in Mexico that makes them for GM and they of course work just fine.

So who do you know with a Tech-2? Are you the original owner?


I replace the drivers switch on my suv and did not have to program it all all. It was p&p, it maybe that mine is an NBS.
 
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hogman23

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Did the switch you took off work at all?
Test the wires for current, I might be wrong but for every window switch should have one wire to power it up and one wire power it down. You should have power going in all the times to the main board and when the switch is trigger, power should be sent to the power down wire or power up wire. If no power is going in either direction you have a bad switch/module within the switch.


If I switch back to the old switch, all of the windows work except the drivers side, so it can't be a power issue.
 

wjburken

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Gentlemen, as @swathdiver stated, on the NNBS vehicles, the switch cluster needs to be flashed to the vehicle. This was not necessary on the NBS vehicles, but is on the NNBS. If the dealer said it doesn’t need to be flashed, I think he is mistaken, as I once was.
 

Fless

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Gentlemen, as @swathdiver stated, on the NNBS vehicles, the switch cluster needs to be flashed to the vehicle. This was not necessary on the NBS vehicles, but is on the NNBS. If the dealer said it doesn’t need to be flashed, I think he is mistaken, as I once was.

Not that it applies here, but some of the later NBS driver door modules (the switch cluster) do appear to need to be flashed. (Maybe not if the replacement is the exact same switch out of a vehicle with the same options.)
 

F15CDE MXR

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Guys,

I need some help. All of a sudden a few weeks ago my driver window stopped working. Naturally, I thought it was the motor and replaced it, only to be disappointed that it still didn't work. So, I figured out it was the switch cluster in the drivers side door. So I ordered a new one and put it in. Here is where the weirdness comes in....now the drivers window rolls down, but none of the other three work, nor do the locks or anything else. What the heck?

Sooo... I am facing the same with my 2002 GMC Yukon XL. The driver's side is not operative, as in will not go up or down. I replaced the switch with one from AutoZone (DuraLast name). Still did not work. Removed and replaced the driver's side window regulator and motor (AND THAT WAS A BIOTCH!) Still no help. Returned all purchased parts and got my refund, and installed the original parts from the vehicle. NOW from reading this, I HAVE OEM ACDelco parts???
 

swathdiver

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Not that it applies here, but some of the later NBS driver door modules (the switch cluster) do appear to need to be flashed. (Maybe not if the replacement is the exact same switch out of a vehicle with the same options.)

This is true, about a year ago a guy came on here from Texas and his new switch didn't work, then we surmised that if he could buy a used one with the same options it would not need programming and he did and it worked and he was able to go on vacation without delay.
 

ivin74

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This is true, about a year ago a guy came on here from Texas and his new switch didn't work, then we surmised that if he could buy a used one with the same options it would not need programming and he did and it worked and he was able to go on vacation without delay.

Can you program the new switch with the Tech2?
 

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