What to know before buying a 2016-2019 Tahoe LT+

[roadmonk]

Greetings from Northern California. Looking to buy an LT Midnight Edition or Z71 (love them black rims!) in the new year, to use as a family/surfmobile, to occasionally sleep in during surf trips & as a road warrior from Bay Area into Yosemite, Tahoe ski areas, etc.

I joined this forum to educate myself on what to look out for before buying a used Tahoe. Things like:
• How many miles is too many for used Tahoe?
• Are there typical breakdowns for this vehicle, after a certain mileage?
• Is the Z71 package worth the cost?
• What don't I know that I need to know?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

Folks who own these trucks will chime in.

 

[Tiki]

Someone will correct me but in case no one else comments:

2017 - improved entertainment operating system (Apple CarPlay)
2018 - headlights have improved LED daytime running lights

At some point digital gauge package was also offered, and the wireless charging improved as well. Both of these can be swapped out if you like weekend projects. To me there isn’t anything in one model year that would be a deal breaker.

This platform was known to have some buffeting issues which were more reported in the 15-16 model years. If you find this to be a concern also consider that tires/pressure play a role in this as well. Aside from that, AFM is the biggest curse to GM reliability; this was a much larger concern for the prior model year and in from my perspective with this generation being much more reliable.

I would say that for GM vehicles, Z71, RST, and Denali are all worth the upgraded cost. I looked for several months to find a Certified Z71 Suburban as they are much more sought after; I had a 2007 Z71 Tahoe and it brought a premium when we sold it to get our Suburban. Z71 off-road equipment by itself is not worth it but I think you’ll find the better looking front bumper and the fact that they are usually well optioned, Z71 is worth the premium. We are very happy with ours!

 

[Miami-Dade]

If you get 15-17 Tahoe and your a/c Condenser is the original one it will go belly up. Mine [2016 LT] went out at 80K miles.

With that said I have 98K miles on mine and so far [besides the Condenser] just plain old regular maintenance every 5K miles. I have zero plans on buying another vehicle anytime soon. I generally keep my vehicles till 200-300K miles. They can bury me in my Tahoe.

 

[roadmonk]

Thanks, Tiki. I appreciate the info!

Someone will correct me but in case no one else comments:

2017 - improved entertainment operating system (Apple CarPlay)
2018 - headlights have improved LED daytime running lights

At some point digital gauge package was also offered, and the wireless charging improved as well. Both of these can be swapped out if you like weekend projects. To me there isn’t anything in one model year that would be a deal breaker.

This platform was known to have some buffeting issues which were more reported in the 15-16 model years. If you find this to be a concern also consider that tires/pressure play a role in this as well. Aside from that, AFM is the biggest curse to GM reliability; this was a much larger concern for the prior model year and in from my perspective with this generation being much more reliable.

I would say that for GM vehicles, Z71, RST, and Denali are all worth the upgraded cost. I looked for several months to find a Certified Z71 Suburban as they are much more sought after; I had a 2007 Z71 Tahoe and it brought a premium when we sold it to get our Suburban. Z71 off-road equipment by itself is not worth it but I think you’ll find the better looking front bumper and the fact that they are usually well optioned, Z71 is worth the premium. We are very happy with ours!

 

[roadmonk]

Thanks for this! Wonder how much a condenser will cost. Also: is changing oil/fluids necessary every 5k? I’ve been doing it every 7-8k, given how little I drive these days. But I’m driving a 2005 Element currently....

If you get 15-17 Tahoe and your a/c Condenser is the original one it will go belly up. Mine [2016 LT] went out at 80K miles.

With that said I have 98K miles on mine and so far [besides the Condenser] just plain old regular maintenance every 5K miles. I have zero plans on buying another vehicle anytime soon. I generally keep my vehicles till 200-300K miles. They can bury me in my Tahoe.

 

[Rdr854]

I had a 2016 and 2017 Suburbans and currently have a 2019 Suburban. The 2017 was better than the 2016 and the 2019 has been better behaved than the 16 or 17. Aside from recall work, the 19 has had only one problem that made it unsafe to drive — something with a brake booster. The 16 and 17 had software glitches and antenna issues.

I would recommend either an 18, 19 or 20 Suburban or Tahoe.

 

[Tiki]

Thanks for this! Wonder how much a condenser will cost. Also: is changing oil/fluids necessary every 5k? I’ve been doing it every 7-8k, given how little I drive these days. But I’m driving a 2005 Element currently....

Clean oil helps avoid potential AFM issues. I’m sure there are folks running longer intervals but I personally try to stick to 5-6k miles and or twice a year. The type and style of driving (stop and go traffic) also plays into maintenance intervals but this is true for all vehicles.

 

[Prospect62]

I've driven some 2015 Tahoes at work, and I've been around this forum for about five years and I've learned that you should be very wary of the 2015 models. Lost of first year glitches, from annoying little things to major mechanical issues.

That being said I personally own a 2016 Suburban and it has been pretty trouble and quirk free. I have zero complaints.

As far as "too much" mileage, well there really isn't any such thing as long as you understand that the price of the truck will be commensurate with miles. I wouldn't be scared to buy one at anything under 100,000 and I also wouldn't shy away from one with over 100,000 miles if the price was right.

Common mechanical issues usually consist of the condenser/trans cooler unit as noted, the transmission (the 8-speeds found in the higher trim level models are more trouble prone I have heard) which fails due to torque converters breaking down. There are complaints of electrical gremlins on the 2015's and complaints of roof panel wind buffeting issues that I can't remember were specific to the Suburban or happened on the Tahoes too. The AFM lifters are prone to fail which will be a costly repair. I have disabled my AFM system via a Superchips tuner so I don't have to worry about that again. You can buy a device called a "Range AFM disabler" that is affordable and plugs into your OBD-2 port that will disable the AFM system. Some of us here value absolute reliability over a few MPG's. Some don't and would prefer to gamble with their AFM still on. Educate yourself about the system and it's flaws and you decide. Fuel injectors go bad and cause misfire issues that can masquerade as AFM issues. My truck has had three (3) injectors replaced after they caused misfires.

My truck is a "lowly" LT model that I have spent some money on partially converting to a Z71. Tow hooks, stout aluminum skid plates, a mild suspension lift and more aggressive tires. If I had to do it over again I absolutely would have held out for a Z71, because there are functional, purposeful upgrades. Bling has never been my thing and I passed up on a few LTZ models when looking because they have un-needed tech that fails and costs money to repair. Some people "need" those creature comforts, though. That's a personal decision, and the LTZ packages are very whiz-bang neat-o, but I prefer function over form. The Z71 is the only upgraded model I'd ever pay for.

Good luck!

 

[Miami-Dade]

Thanks for this! Wonder how much a condenser will cost. Also: is changing oil/fluids necessary every 5k? I’ve been doing it every 7-8k, given how little I drive these days. But I’m driving a 2005 Element currently....

Like above post said helps to avoid AFM issues. If you do all highway and use a good oil like Mobil 1 or AC Delco you might be able to stretch it 7-8K miles. Changing the oil at 5K miles makes me sleep better.

The dealer covered my Condenser.

Make sure you get ALL service records and have a independent mechanic [or a mobile mechanic] check it out from top to bottom to be safe in case you missed something.

 

[tsuintx]

2017 - improved entertainment operating system (Apple CarPlay)

Pretty sure 2016 is when CarPlay/Android Auto was added... Just like in Silverados. If that’s something OP is looking for, of course. CP/AA aren’t factors for everybody.

I wouldn’t be afraid of miles, as long as it has been maintained and as mentioned before, the price is in line with the miles. My wife’s Suburban had 138K when we bought it and since the price/condition/maintenance records were great, I had no issues with buying it.

AC condenser was an issue in the early models, but most of them have probably been changed by now. If not, that’s another $1K of bargaining power for you. It’s not a huge job, but could be used as a negotiating tool.

AFM is something to be aware of. Things have gotten better since 2010 when GM redesigned the valve covers, but failures still do happen. Some fail before 100K, some go well over 200K, so it’s a crapshoot. Main thing to do is to disable it asap after you buy the truck. The ultimate thing would be to remove the whole system by replacing the lifters, cam etc., but that can get costly. Cheaper methods of disabling it are as mentioned already: Range device, handheld programmer or custom tune.

Out of those I’d suggest getting a custom tune. That’s what I have doe with my Silverado and wife’s Suburban. It not only disables AFM, it also modifies many other parameters to make the truck act like a different animal. Well worth the cost. A lot of people on this site seem to prefer BlackBear. I used DiabLew tune that is a staple on one of the GM truck pickup sites since I already had Lew tune my Silverado.

Good luck with your search!

 

[roadmonk]

This is gold. Thank you! I need to look up a few Tahoe acronyms, obviously....

I've driven some 2015 Tahoes at work, and I've been around this forum for about five years and I've learned that you should be very wary of the 2015 models. Lost of first year glitches, from annoying little things to major mechanical issues.

That being said I personally own a 2016 Suburban and it has been pretty trouble and quirk free. I have zero complaints.

As far as "too much" mileage, well there really isn't any such thing as long as you understand that the price of the truck will be commensurate with miles. I wouldn't be scared to buy one at anything under 100,000 and I also wouldn't shy away from one with over 100,000 miles if the price was right.

Common mechanical issues usually consist of the condenser/trans cooler unit as noted, the transmission (the 8-speeds found in the higher trim level models are more trouble prone I have heard) which fails due to torque converters breaking down. There are complaints of electrical gremlins on the 2015's and complaints of roof panel wind buffeting issues that I can't remember were specific to the Suburban or happened on the Tahoes too. The AFM lifters are prone to fail which will be a costly repair. I have disabled my AFM system via a Superchips tuner so I don't have to worry about that again. You can buy a device called a "Range AFM disabler" that is affordable and plugs into your OBD-2 port that will disable the AFM system. Some of us here value absolute reliability over a few MPG's. Some don't and would prefer to gamble with their AFM still on. Educate yourself about the system and it's flaws and you decide. Fuel injectors go bad and cause misfire issues that can masquerade as AFM issues. My truck has had three (3) injectors replaced after they caused misfires.

My truck is a "lowly" LT model that I have spent some money on partially converting to a Z71. Tow hooks, stout aluminum skid plates, a mild suspension lift and more aggressive tires. If I had to do it over again I absolutely would have held out for a Z71, because there are functional, purposeful upgrades. Bling has never been my thing and I passed up on a few LTZ models when looking because they have un-needed tech that fails and costs money to repair. Some people "need" those creature comforts, though. That's a personal decision, and the LTZ packages are very whiz-bang neat-o, but I prefer function over form. The Z71 is the only upgraded model I'd ever pay for.

Good luck!

 

[gat0r]

"buffeting issues" ... either your vehicle has it or it doesnt.

can be any of the '15 thru '20 models.
GM doesnt know how to fix it. as they have a Dell pc type approach... throw a bunch fixes & hope one works.
overall seems to be more tolerance stacking issue.

dirive it in varying road conditions & speeds from 25-75+ ... you will know if its happening

 

[Rdr854]

Pretty sure 2016 is when CarPlay/Android Auto was added... Just like in Silverados. If that’s something OP is looking for, of course. CP/AA aren’t factors for everybody.

I wouldn’t be afraid of miles, as long as it has been maintained and as mentioned before, the price is in line with the miles. My wife’s Suburban had 138K when we bought it and since the price/condition/maintenance records were great, I had no issues with buying it.

AC condenser was an issue in the early models, but most of them have probably been changed by now. If not, that’s another $1K of bargaining power for you. It’s not a huge job, but could be used as a negotiating tool.

AFM is something to be aware of. Things have gotten better since 2010 when GM redesigned the valve covers, but failures still do happen. Some fail before 100K, some go well over 200K, so it’s a crapshoot. Main thing to do is to disable it asap after you buy the truck. The ultimate thing would be to remove the whole system by replacing the lifters, cam etc., but that can get costly. Cheaper methods of disabling it are as mentioned already: Range device, handheld programmer or custom tune.

Out of those I’d suggest getting a custom tune. That’s what I have doe with my Silverado and wife’s Suburban. It not only disables AFM, it also modifies many other parameters to make the truck act like a different animal. Well worth the cost. A lot of people on this site seem to prefer BlackBear. I used DiabLew tune that is a staple on one of the GM truck pickup sites since I already had Lew tune my Silverado.

Good luck with your search!

not to hijack the thread, but how do these tunes impact emissions for those of us that are subject to emissions inspection? In this regard, Virginia is now doing roadside inspections in highway interchanges.

 

[PG01]

not to hijack the thread, but how do these tunes impact emissions for those of us that are subject to emissions inspection? In this regard, Virginia is now doing roadside inspections in highway interchanges.

They don’t impact emissions at all. They are simply tweaking certain parameters in the computers to ‘wake’ the truck up a little bit. GM leaves a lot on the table when tuning their vehicles so a simple bump up in fuel/timing/shifting etc etc etc makes for a complete difference in the drivability of the truck.

 

[FrankU]

"Virginia is now doing roadside inspections in highway interchanges."

The Third ***** awakens.

 

[tsuintx]

They don’t impact emissions at all. They are simply tweaking certain parameters in the computers to ‘wake’ the truck up a little bit. GM leaves a lot on the table when tuning their vehicles so a simple bump up in fuel/timing/shifting etc etc etc makes for a complete difference in the drivability of the truck.

Yup. It’s not about emissions, it’s about making things work the way they are supposed to work and removing/disabling the nannies (torque management, AFM etc.) that have been put in place to fulfill CAFE standards.

 

[Throttle Boss]

Love my 2016 Tahoe LT. Low maintenance costs and until last week, only preventative maintenance. A/C stopped blowing cold air. Condenser failed at 95,000 miles and dumped all freon. This seems to be a common problem as reported in this forum. Condenser replaced by dealer and $1,100 later works good as new. Tahoe is a complex piece of equipment requiring disassembly so the labor was $800 and parts only $300. Driven 4 years so spread out cost is only $275/year. Fun to drive, looks good, and reliable!

 

[SSpinball]

A/C condenser will fail, get it changed under tsb.