What is This sound from my engine?

[Michigan]

I'm saying a visual inspection for the brake lines should be sufficient to tell if they have already been replaced but also if they have not been replaced and don't look rusted or anything and the shop tells me that there's no reason to replace them then I disagree with replacing them anyways. Yes safety first but I doubt that every single one of these trucks have that same problem. There could be a chance that mine never been replaced and are fine but there very well could be a possibility that they do need replacing and I will do so accordingly. I don't cheap out on auto repairs at all especially when lives are on the line. We'll see what a shop says and I'll update on that.

I don't really like the clamp route because I feel like it might not seal a leaking gasket completely but I may be wrong.

 

[jfoj]

First off ALL of these trucks have the exact same problem with the brake lines. In addition to the trucks many of the GM cars and other manufacturer cars have the SAME problem as well. I do not recall the exact years but it was like from 1997-2007 if I recall correctly . GM and other manufacturers decided NOT to use stainless steel brake lines AND they also chose not to paint, plate or coat the brake lines. Probably some money saving issue?? So almost EVERY one of these vehicles is at a severe risk. Maybe vehicles that live in the Southwest US may be fine, but others are DANGEROUS. If the lines do not appear to have been replaced, they NEED to be replaced.

Then there is the OTHER problem! The rear brake backing plates are also a disaster on these vehicles. They rust out faster than the brake lines!!!!! The parking brake will not operate properly and the backing plates can and will collapse. These are fairly cheap, but you need to drain the rear differential and pull the axles to replace the backing plates. Trust me, if you have a Northern truck, you have RUST on the brake lines and the rear brake backing plates are shot unless you are lucky and someone has replaced them.

Then the last item. I do not get where you are coming from on the exhaust manifold bracket/clamp. They work fine. Matter of fact they have been on my truck for about 2 years. In replacing the brake lines on my truck I found the drivers side manifold had 2 more broken bolts, the very front and one in the middle somewhere.

I pulled the manifold but I am still going to use the clamp for the rear most bolt for 2 reasons. 1 you cannot access the rear bolt while the engine/head is in the vehicle and 2 the rear most bold broke off flush with the head so I cannot easily grab onto the bolt in anyway. Plus I would have to go to all the effort to remove the clamp as well.

I really think you need to LISTEN and LEARN about these trucks, I am sure MANY, MANY people on this forum and others have all had problems with their brake lines, rear brake backing plates and exhaust manifold bolts!

Do what you want, but do not say you were not warned.

 

[afpj]

See these clamps, there are 2 version, one for each side of the head.

I have not tried the Amazon/Dorman ones, they are cheaper than the ones I purchased which are listed below the Amazon links.

https://www.amazon.com/DORMAN-917-107-Exhaust-Manifold-Clamp/dp/B00GHT9L4O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...rd_wg=wIs8s&psc=1&refRID=JPXXF4CZ7TFQ80CMS1GR

These are what I used - http://kralautoparts.com/

.

Thanks for posting this! I had been reluctant to try the Kral due to the price, although it looks better designed and built. However since this post I ordered the $24 dorman one, I mean what the heck at that price. It works just fine. Extreme pita to put in ( driver side rear for me). No more exhaust tick when cold.

 

[Michigan]

First off ALL of these trucks have the exact same problem with the brake lines. In addition to the trucks many of the GM cars and other manufacturer cars have the SAME problem as well. I do not recall the exact years but it was like from 1997-2007 if I recall correctly . GM and other manufacturers decided NOT to use stainless steel brake lines AND they also chose not to paint, plate or coat the brake lines. Probably some money saving issue?? So almost EVERY one of these vehicles is at a severe risk. Maybe vehicles that live in the Southwest US may be fine, but others are DANGEROUS. If the lines do not appear to have been replaced, they NEED to be replaced.

Then there is the OTHER problem! The rear brake backing plates are also a disaster on these vehicles. They rust out faster than the brake lines!!!!! The parking brake will not operate properly and the backing plates can and will collapse. These are fairly cheap, but you need to drain the rear differential and pull the axles to replace the backing plates. Trust me, if you have a Northern truck, you have RUST on the brake lines and the rear brake backing plates are shot unless you are lucky and someone has replaced them.

Then the last item. I do not get where you are coming from on the exhaust manifold bracket/clamp. They work fine. Matter of fact they have been on my truck for about 2 years. In replacing the brake lines on my truck I found the drivers side manifold had 2 more broken bolts, the very front and one in the middle somewhere.

I pulled the manifold but I am still going to use the clamp for the rear most bolt for 2 reasons. 1 you cannot access the rear bolt while the engine/head is in the vehicle and 2 the rear most bold broke off flush with the head so I cannot easily grab onto the bolt in anyway. Plus I would have to go to all the effort to remove the clamp as well.

I really think you need to LISTEN and LEARN about these trucks, I am sure MANY, MANY people on this forum and others have all had problems with their brake lines, rear brake backing plates and exhaust manifold bolts!

Do what you want, but do not say you were not warned.

How bad do mine look?

 

[Michigan]

Thanks for posting this! I had been reluctant to try the Kral due to the price, although it looks better designed and built. However since this post I ordered the $24 dorman one, I mean what the heck at that price. It works just fine. Extreme pita to put in ( driver side rear for me). No more exhaust tick when cold.

How bad was or loud was your tick? Could it be heard on acceleration?

Mine is very loud on cold start and on acceleration. I'm just not sure if the gasket is also leaking if the clamp will fix the whole issue.

 

[Michigan]

Also does anyone know the cost of having the brake lines replaced? Parts and labor at a shop? Doing it myself is not an option

 

[jfoj]

How bad was or loud was your tick? Could it be heard on acceleration?

Mine is very loud on cold start and on acceleration. I'm just not sure if the gasket is also leaking if the clamp will fix the whole issue.

Cold start and acceleration is when you will hear the exhaust leaks. The CLAMPS will solve this problem if it is for the front or rear port position, which seems to be the most common failure. Even if more than 2 bold is broke, the clamps will help of solve the problem under most conditions. If the clamp does not work, you know you have a bigger problem.

The gaskets are 3 layers of stainless steel, they are not a problem and the clamps WORK. The gaskets do not need to be replaced!!!! Why do you think so many of these clamps are available and why do you think Dorman now sells them?????

Why would you not even try the clamp for the price??? You are free to have the shop do it the hard/expensive way!

 

[jfoj]

Also does anyone know the cost of having the brake lines replaced? Parts and labor at a shop? Doing it myself is not an option

Your brake lines are a ticking time bomb!!! These start to leak where you cannot easily see them, you must remove some things to see where the lines come down near the drivers kick panel at an angle and then level out, this is where they almost always rust through/blow out.

The brake line kits of pre-bent and proper length are less than $100 on Amazon. DO NOT allow the lines from the master cylinder to be replaced, the OE lines at the master cylinder do not have problems and are far better than what comes in all the kits.

It takes between 2-3 hours to replace the lines and bleed the brakes, expect a REASONABLE shop to charge you around 4 hours of labor. Shop around, find a shop that does these, any shop that has never done these will give you a price of like $1500.

Trust me, yours are probably seeping or will be ready to blow out the first time you jump on the brakes hard. This is a STANDARD OPTION OR FEATURE on these trucks, they all have this waiting for the current or new owners!!

Have I been 100% correct so far?? Yes I have been.

Anyone reading that has this body style, replace the brake lines and install exhaust manifold brackets before it is too late!

 

[jfoj]

Thanks for posting this! I had been reluctant to try the Kral due to the price, although it looks better designed and built. However since this post I ordered the $24 dorman one, I mean what the heck at that price. It works just fine. Extreme pita to put in ( driver side rear for me). No more exhaust tick when cold.

When I did mine, Dorman did not offer the clamps. I think the Kral clamps are better overall. Yes, the drivers side rear is a PITA, but if you are determined you can do it. Nice to solve the cold start ticking and it will hopefully keep other bolts from breaking due to the weight and vibrations of the exhaust system hanging on the manifold.

 

[afpj]

How bad do mine look?

Wow, those aren't brake lines, they are rust lines. I would've changed them yesterday.