What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[inmypassatlife]

Price dif on gas..... f'd up..... in a year..

In Texas we got down to $1.79 then new school year and got up to $2.09, finally came down to $1.94 and then hurricane hit. I haven't left the house since it started raining bit went up to $2.19 in some parts.

 

[Chubbs]

Night shot...

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I thought it was pretty homo when you said that you painted your TC.

Then I remembered that your truck ain't junk like mine. Then... I saw the pic. And that $hit looks tite SON

 

[Chubbs]

I may have mentioned a time or 2 that I have found ZERO signs of any maintenance/maintenance items replacement on my new-2-me yukon 4x4.

Well it's had a braking vibration since I bought it so, naturally I assume the original brakes need replacing. Well, somebody threw cheap pads on it & didn't resurface the rotors. Half-a$$ job if I've ever seen one. had it been done properly to begin with, I would be $120 richer today but such is my luck. The brake pads look like they have 500 miles on them, while the crusty/rusted rotors may as well be from 1960 by all appearances.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I may have mentioned a time or 2 that I have found ZERO signs of any maintenance/maintenance items replacement on my new-2-me yukon 4x4.

Well it's had a braking vibration since I bought it so, naturally I assume the original brakes need replacing. Well, somebody threw cheap pads on it & didn't resurface the rotors. Half-a$$ job if I've ever seen one. had it been done properly to begin with, I would be $120 richer today but such is my luck. The brake pads look like they have 500 miles on them, while the crusty/rusted rotors may as well be from 1960 by all appearances.

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I've seen much, much worse. Get new rotors or did you resurface yours?

 

[Chubbs]

So here you can see the tools of the trade for removing those pesky caliper torx bolts.
Or not..

And the broken wheel stud that I inherited; probably screwed up the original wheel hub in the process of replacing the stud. It didn't spin the same as before the hammering & torquing. FML will see what happens.

Didn't want to chance a bunch of labor getting the rotors in for a resurface only to be told they are short on material so I went all-in as to be finished with it in 1-go.

And then the wheel lugs were so tight that I snapped my 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. How many times has this happened? Impact-grade junk, another minor setback. As you can see from my wheel design, not a whole lot of options for getting to the lugs. Just using what I've got..

I will have to jump in it, burnish the pads and see if the braking vibes issue is resolved.
Update: the braking is smooth & no longer experiencing any shudder or "pulsating"
Braking vibration is 1 thing I cannot tolerate as you can tell by the 1/2" thick brake pads I just tossed into the garbage. It was all due to neglecting the resurface or outright replacement of the rotors when the pads were replaced.

 

[inmypassatlife]

Installed two 52mm gauges in the clock bezel after cutting out some 1/4'' ABS plastic. I used Q-bond to glue it all together... I'm probably going to redo it since I rushed it and the gauges aren't at the same height

Also need to find my 4 gang clip panel to mount all the rocker switches below the 52mm gauges

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Cool, looks like a Picasso masterpiece

 

[Chubbs]

I've seen much, much worse. Get new rotors or did you resurface yours?

I will take the original rotors in & find out if they can do anything with them. The big box parts store uses a lower number for discard than cited in the Chiltons w/s manual. If they pass, Maybe that will also apply to the rear rotors and they will also meet the threshold for resurface & I can save some cash there. But like the tech at Oreilly told me, it costs $20 to resurface a 6-lug rotor but a brand new 1 goes for $35. I tried a cheap rotor about 10-years ago and my car shook like a B*^*^ on the initial test drive. I took it back, traded for a more expensive unit and that did the trick. The salesperson said cheap rotors aren't built like that anymore & I shouldn't have any problems. I'm still skeptical. Scared to find out really; why I'm watching TV instead of burnishing the pads right now.

 

[Chubbs]

I've seen much, much worse.

I honestly haven't. Not personally, down here in TX. No rust ever, on anything. I found material like an old reg' tag that said the p/o was from CO so that's where it came from. I still can't believe somebody replaced the pads and not so much as did a resurface on the rotors. That is incomprehensible to me. The 2 tabs that hold the rotors @ Assy-line had obviously never been touched and there were cobwebs & brake dust on inside of caliper bracket so it doesn't take a genious to deduce the orig pads were swapped with new & nothing else. How lame can you get? She prob paid a garage $500 for that hack job.

 

[PG01]

I pad slap all the time........common practice

 

[Tonyrodz]

I will take the original rotors in & find out if they can do anything with them. The big box parts store uses a lower number for discard than cited in the Chiltons w/s manual. If they pass, Maybe that will also apply to the rear rotors and they will also meet the threshold for resurface & I can save some cash there. But like the tech at Oreilly told me, it costs $20 to resurface a 6-lug rotor but a brand new 1 goes for $35. I tried a cheap rotor about 10-years ago and my car shook like a B*^*^ on the initial test drive. I took it back, traded for a more expensive unit and that did the trick. The salesperson said cheap rotors aren't built like that anymore & I shouldn't have any problems. I'm still skeptical. Scared to find out really; why I'm watching TV instead of burnishing the pads right now.

I prefer OEM rotors myself, but I can't find anyone in my area who even cuts them anymore, being that they're so cheap to replace today. Aftermarket doesn't use the same metal and are looser on their QC, Imo.

 

[W8TVI]

I replaced the incandescent reverse bulbs with LEDs on my Suburban. Somehow it's still not bright enough to backup without rolling the windows down, after dark... (Did the same to my wife's Tahoe a week or so ago).

I would recommend any aftermarket tail light assemblies that have a clear reverse window.

A good set of LEDs like the 1200 lumen JDM ASTARS ( http://a.co/6SWLge6 quiet a few of us use those bulbs), combined with an aftermarket tail light makes a big difference.

After putting a 20" LED light bar on the front of my truck, I'm now wanting to put something like that on the rear to get even more light in reverse.

 

[Chubbs]

I pad slap all the time........common practice

Obviously not a reliable fix, as I have documented the results of that practice here.

But if you can get away with that on your own ride, good for you. I've never had that luxury as my replacement is always result of shudder/warp/hot spot long before extreme pad wear

And if somebody is paying me to replace their brakes, he/she gets all or nothing.

 

[Chubbs]

I prefer OEM rotors myself, but I can't find anyone in my area who even cuts them anymore, being that they're so cheap to replace today. Aftermarket doesn't use the same metal and are looser on their QC, Imo.

Oh I'm fully expecting these cheap rotors to be garbage BUT if they stay true long enough for me to get the Orig's turned and swapped back on @ some point, that works for me. I just can't drive a vehicle that brake shudders. I would rather my AC go out than ride like that for any length of time.

Even if I have to go cheap for a minute and put back a lil' somethin to upgrade @ a later date. Fortunately, brakes are quick & simple when everything goes right, I could pull into Oreilly next payday, pull the front pads/rotors,
Trade the junk in under warranty & go up 1 or 2 levels for an extra $40, and be headed to the house 45 min later with something that I have confidence in.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well I decided to go out and test my new Performabuilt transmission and see what a 2800 rpm stall does during a hard launch so right around the corner from my house I hit it hard and watched to see what boost I could accomplish and I heard something break and then a driveline hanging and doing damage so I got it to the side of the road and there was an oil slick. Bad scary sounds as I was getting it stopped. Couldn't get it in park. Damn. The worst case things were going through my head. But it looks like I might have got lucky- I broke a u-joint strap and it looks like it only damaged the oil filter and minor damage to the pan but it's not leaking from the pan I don't think, just the filter. And bent the shift linkage.

 

[M3kanic]

Wow that's some power

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[drowssap]

I heard something break and then a driveline hanging and doing damage so I got it to the side of the road and there was an oil slick. Bad scary sounds as I was getting it stopped. Couldn't get it in park. But it looks like I might have got lucky-

Whoa....sending good JU JU your way...at first I only saw the carnage in the pic and couldn't believe what I thought I was about to read!

 

[inmypassatlife]

Well I decided to go out and test my new Performabuilt transmission and see what a 2800 rpm stall does during a hard launch so right around the corner from my house I hit it hard and watched to see what boost I could accomplish and I heard something break and then a driveline hanging and doing damage so I got it to the side of the road and there was an oil slick. Bad scary sounds as I was getting it stopped. Couldn't get it in park. Damn. The worst case things were going through my head. But it looks like I might have got lucky- I broke a u-joint strap and it looks like it only damaged the oil filter and minor damage to the pan but it's not leaking from the pan I don't think, just the filter. And bent the shift linkage.

Sounds like you got sloppy and overtightened them.

 

[Cattivo]

Cool, looks like a Picasso masterpiece

Thanks brother, I like to think of myself as the Leonardo da Vinci of car modding lol

 

[02_Tahoe]

I have a question for all the 6.0 guys. What transmission do you have hooked up to it? Will a 4l60e be able to handle the power or is it better just to go with an 80e

 

[Tonyrodz]

I have a question for all the 6.0 guys. What transmission do you have hooked up to it? Will a 4l60e be able to handle the power or is it better just to go with an 80e

My stock 4l69e gave up the ghost, I'm on a beefier rebuild, so I hope it's gonna last. I think the stock 4l60e could last for awhile if you don't beat it up.