What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Cattivo]

My next upgrade for sure. Did you do the '07+ calipers too?

No, it came in a kit I bought on amazon...price actually came down a few hundred $ since I purchased them


Amazon.com: Power Stop KC2015 1-Click Performance Brake Kit with Calipers, Front & Rear: Automotive

 

[PG01]

The one on the window has bubbles.
I tried to get them out, but it was going to rip.
Didn't have a pin or anything at the time to fix it.

Kidding......btw

 

[Chubbs]

WTF? Are you working on it in a bad hood in the middle of the night? Damn bro that sounds like a *****! Hope you got it.

That's exactly what I was doing; so long as I don't walk out there & find a quart of trans oil leaked onto the ground, I'm fina' drive this puppy & see what it do!

 

[Chubbs]

On my 01 hoe i just bent the shifter linkage out of the way and bent it back after....easier than trying to get to those bolts.... idea for next time

I read about bending the linkage & I tried that first. I never could get enough clearance for the pan to move as the front driveshaft wouldn't allow the assembly to be pried over far enough. I could see how it would work fine for 2-wheel drive trucks, but on mine the front DS for 4WD rides maybe 1/2-inch to the outside of the shifter link and it's impossible (for me) to move it over far enough.

 

[M3kanic]

That's because you need a bigger pry bar.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Chubbs]

That's because you need a bigger pry bar.

 

[PG01]

I read about bending the linkage & I tried that first. I never could get enough clearance for the pan to move as the front driveshaft wouldn't allow the assembly to be pried over far enough. I could see how it would work fine for 2-wheel drive trucks, but on mine the front DS for 4WD rides maybe 1/2-inch to the outside of the shifter link and it's impossible (for me) to move it over far enough.

Mine was 4wd.... but I understand at night and laying on your back.... I remember tryingbto getbthe drain plug out too.... i said screw it and took a bath in tranny fluid too.... at least its a cleaner......

 

[Chubbs]

Mine was 4wd.... but I understand at night and laying on your back.... I remember tryingbto getbthe drain plug out too.... i said screw it and took a bath in tranny fluid too.... at least its a cleaner......

LmAo! What's the deal with that drain plug anyway?? I couldn't get it broke loose when I had the pan free & on the ground! Gave up on it before I created more probs for myself but sure woulda been nice to make it functional.

So worse came to worst and found my cardboard soaked in $10 worth of Dex6. F***!!! Crawled under & found it drippin' exact same spot at front of tranny, except this time it had been leaking for 10-hours instead of 10-min. Tightened all of the bolts up again, stopped the leak. For now. Don't know exactly how much I lost or if it's in the "driveable" category.
GM spec is 5-qts on 4L60e which read way high on my dipstick so I have no idea or any way to know how much oil I lost overnight & what quantity should be added to be back @ spec.

I have had this truck for maybe 1-month now & trans fill level always read way high. I figured it's been running fine overfilled & I would correct it when I did the drain&refill. Well now I know it was prob within spec the whole time. Only God knows; even at cold fill level after my maint' routine it was still super high on the dipstick even after the big leak but I know what I put in there & I know what GM calls for.

@ least I feel a lil more secure with myself knowing others have taken the tranny bath. I was so careful removing the bolts so it would drain where I wanted it to; Ppppshhh! Not even close. F*+%n drain plug torqued @ 200ft/lb w that cheesy a$$ bolt head. Nonsense.

 

[bottomline2000]

LmAo! What's the deal with that drain plug anyway?? I couldn't get it broke loose when I had the pan free & on the ground! Gave up on it before I created more probs for myself but sure woulda been nice to make it functional.

So worse came to worst and found my cardboard soaked in $10 worth of Dex6. F***!!! Crawled under & found it drippin' exact same spot at front of tranny, except this time it had been leaking for 10-hours instead of 10-min. Tightened all of the bolts up again, stopped the leak. For now. Don't know exactly how much I lost or if it's in the "driveable" category.
GM spec is 5-qts on 4L60e which read way high on my dipstick so I have no idea or any way to know how much oil I lost overnight & what quantity should be added to be back @ spec.

I have had this truck for maybe 1-month now & trans fill level always read way high. I figured it's been running fine overfilled & I would correct it when I did the drain&refill. Well now I know it was prob within spec the whole time. Only God knows; even at cold fill level after my maint' routine it was still super high on the dipstick even after the big leak but I know what I put in there & I know what GM calls for.

Check Trans fluid when it's warm and engine running otherwise it will read high on the dipstick.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[Rocket Man]

Check Trans fluid when it's warm and engine running otherwise it will read high on the dipstick.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

Also you might not be getting all the old fluid out so I'd go by what the dipstick says. There is a specific method called for when checking fluid level:
Trans temp should be at normal level, 180-200 degrees.
Start in park, engine running.
Move through each gear, pausing for 3 seconds in each gear. (foot on brake of course)
Put it back in park.
Let engine idle for 3 minutes or more.
Without shutting off the engine, pull the dipstick and wipe it off.
Put the dipstick all the way in, wait 3 seconds, then pull it out and check the level.
Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower level.
It needs to be in the HOT cross-checked area.

 

[Chubbs]

Well GM says you need 5-qts for a pan drop and filter replacement. I put 4-qts in and barely hit the bottom of dipstick with engine warmed-up and ratcheting/pausing through all gear selections, like you said RedRocket (I've always practiced that method) So I dumped the 5th quart into it, deciding GM was close enough with their engineering. That's when the level read high like it always has, but not concerning as 4-qts barely hit the stick and a full 5 (as spec'd by GM) suddenly read high. I will test drive it if I don't have any more leaks & let you all know what I have on the dipstick with drivetrain hot. Depending how much leaked out, could be low again but I will perform due diligence verifying an accurate fill level.

 

[Chubbs]

I was wanting to flush the PS system by removing the return line and adding fresh fluid 'til it runs clear in the drain pan but after the trans' woes all weekend I'm considering a simple reservoir purge and fresh refill. I can't afford any more hiccups or mishaps. I've had my fill of maintenance for 1-weekend but the PS pump is obviously louder with rise in ambient temps & I know it's running on the orig fill. Oh I had a question here: have any of you other guys done the simpler PS resv' empty & refill, say 2 or 3 times & had good enough results?

I have done the more intensive PS flush on different vehicle several months ago and it was a major PIA, especially when air gets into the system & you hear the pump running dry for like 1 minute. I just read where a vac' puller is usually used for PS flush so there's less chance of pump running dry but my luck ran out a long time ago so I would rather use a more full-proof method...like pulling 90% old fluid and leaving the lines/hoses completely full. At least just this time.

 

[Da90]

I got the rest of the pen stripe off and put the driver side flares on. Swapped the rear appliqués to black.

Took it out to test the 4x4 and it did great! So far turning out to be a nice truck!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I think you should match your front bow tie with the caps, personally

You mean to do the caps with the red outline like I have the front end already?

 

[Fosscore]

Long post...

Oil change with Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic and Mobil 1 filter. Tire rotation. Emptied the catch can. Gross. So glad this is not in my intake.
View attachment 179155

Then a little plasti dip...
Okay, boys. Which one for the center caps? Or should there be white somewhere? I know they're not perfect, I was just testing my method.
View attachment 179156

Keep in mind my front end is this way (pardon the dirt, been raining like hell)...

Color matched this bowtie for the hitch.

Gonna put red and/or black dip, but not sure of the scheme yet. Ideas or suggestions, please.

The back hatch logo is like this...


Thanks for your thoughts here, guys.

Yep match them so they are all the same. No cross contamination.

 

[MadDogDelpho]

Yessir!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yep match them so they are all the same. No cross contamination.

I also agree.

 

[MINIz guy]

The 4L60E takes 5 quarts if dropping the pan. I'm sure many service manuals state it, I used ALLDATA for my reference.

Usually cork or paper gaskets are a one-time use. They compress a certain amount when torqued so they seal properly. If you've tightened, loosened, tightened and tightened again, there may be a chance of a leak in your future. I would replace the gasket as cheap insurance.

The dipstick states to check fluid with engine idling and transmission fluid hot. Dex 6 is in operating range from 140°F to 240°F, so you don't need it to go that hot. It's pretty difficult to get your trans temp to 180°F just by idling. I checked mine at 120°F and called it good.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wa

The 4L60E takes 5 quarts if dropping the pan. I'm sure many service manuals state it, I used ALLDATA for my reference.

Usually cork or paper gaskets are a one-time use. They compress a certain amount when torqued so they seal properly. If you've tightened, loosened, tightened and tightened again, there may be a chance of a leak in your future. I would replace the gasket as cheap insurance.

The dipstick states to check fluid with engine idling and transmission fluid hot. Dex 6 is in operating range from 140°F to 240°F, so you don't need it to go that hot. It's pretty difficult to get your trans temp to 180°F just by idling. I checked mine at 120°F and called it good.

Your trans temp isn't going to get hot at all by idling. I was going by my owner's manual, and it also says to get the trans to operating temp by driving 15 minutes, or if it's under 50 degrees out drive it in 3rd for 15 minutes after the engine comes to temp. I'm not sure how much difference there would be if you didn't get it warmed up all the way, but there is a reason to follow the steps and instructions or they wouldn't exist, so there must be SOME difference. There is also a cold method, but it's stated that's only to be used "as a reference".

 

[Chubbs]

Well like I said, I was going due diligence or whatever so I drove around for over an hour running errands just now. Apparently I lost quite a bit through that insane overnight drip bc my level was at the cold fill when I made my first stop. Added 1/2-qt @ Oreilly Auto and a few more ounces @ the next stop across town to get into the "hot level" crosshatch. Oh, this was all after I found the pan leaking AGAIN. Hit all the bolts 'til they stopped, since I'm sure as $hit not dropping the pan again just to waste $60-worth AC DELCO Dex6. That $7 gasket can kiss my ace. I will torque the bolt heads through the pan before I re-redo all of that mess for a 3rd time.
Anyway, saw no drips while driving around but I know it will leak again when everything cools off here in a couple hours. My plan is to not let it get cool anytime soon. Keep it hot until we get some kind of thermonuclear fusion at that gasket sandwich. FYI, this 1 is rubber; the 1st gasket I had break on me was cork.