What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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jough

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I got the KYB steering stabilizer installed today. I am glad I went with the KYB & Rough Country style mounting brackets.

While I had the skid plate off, I also installed Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and end links front & rear. Actually, I found some extended Jeep TJ rear links that look like they may bolt right up and make my sway bar level with the road again.

The Jones Full Boar MF2590 muffler will go on some time this week. It came in super fast from Amazon ($63), even with the free shipping.
 

chevync

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Train horns are in, sounds great! 2/4 drop in the next few weeks, waiting on a friend to get time to help me with it.
 

Marv02

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Code 171 and 174

On the way home from a friends the Yukon Threw code 171 and 174.

End up being a Bad MAF with 170K I just replaced it they said you can clean them but with that mileage for $77.00 just got a one.

But the codes said it could been a leaking Intake manifold gasket but it run smooth it did not have the rough idle what is common with a vacuum leak, But it was a lean.

If was an O2 it would thrown a different code.

So the old MAF was not reading the air flow through it.

It had no power at all with the bad MAF.
 
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Mr. Merk

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On the way home from a friends the Yukon Threw code 171 and 174.

End up being a Bad MAF with 170K I just replaced it they said you can clean them but with that mileage for $77.00 just got a one.

But the codes said it could been a leaking Intake manifold gasket but it run smooth it did not have the rough idle what id common with a vacuum leak, But it was a lean.

If was an O2 it would thrown a different code.

So the old MAF was not reading the air flow through it.

It had no power at all with the bad MAF.

A good way to check for intake gasket failure which is pretty common on the older trucks is to spray carb cleaner around the base of the intake while the engine is running (cold is best.) If the rpm increases as you are spraying then you know you have a leak.
 

SlowD

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Got all of my body kit pieces wrapped and sealed, rear bumper and most of the passenger side done. In the picture it was just test fitted to make sure no body color is showing anywhere, I cant believe how dirty its all getting just sitting in the garage.
I will finally have it all done next week! I am extremely excited to get it out and enjoy it again after 3 months.
 

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ALL BIZ

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drop

What drop would be best for me since I have 305/30/26 tires all the way around. ....2/3 or 2/4
 

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chevync

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Finally unwrapped the new grill tonight to prep it for color matching, ended up being all chrome except the outline. The only chrome was going to be the center bar, now the mesh is chrome, do you just scuff it up also and spray it? I have a can of adhesive promoter would that help the paint stick once I scuff the chrome?
 

Yuko04

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Scuff it up with with scotch brite pad or 80 grit sand paper. Clean it with prep spray or mineral spirits. You dont have to worry about adhesion promoter if you use a good primer. And if color match is plastidip paint, i wouldn't worry about adhesion promoter either.

Jiggy-J
 

chevync

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Scuff it up with with scotch brite pad or 80 grit sand paper. Clean it with prep spray or mineral spirits. You dont have to worry about adhesion promoter if you use a good primer. And if color match is plastidip paint, i wouldn't worry about adhesion promoter either.

Jiggy-J

Not using Plastidip, using a can of custom mixed color matched spray paint an then clearcoat.
 

Yuko04

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Then after you sand it, blow it iff with air hose. Use a good prep spray,primer and give er hell!
10 minutes between each coat

Jiggy-J
 

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