What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sam Harris]

If it turns out to be the motor and if you are so inclined you can fix it, there is a gear inside that goes bad youtube has video it's been a long time since I watched it but I know there is one guy that showed how to do it.

That’s cool. Hey I’d always rather spend $5, than $200..!

 

[Sam Harris]

If I were you I'd definitely start with checking and cleaning the connector for the encoder motor pigtail, and the connector on the TCCM. If not one of the connectors, it's more likely that the encoder motor is bad. If you can get connections to work, the Tech 2 can command the various 4wd modes and you can see what mode is really in effect.

For the encoder motors, I think that Dorman is the only company that makes them new now. From the research I did for mine, the rest in the field are remans. As @Doubeleive said, the encoder ring is replaceable.

EDIT: I looked back at my May 2019 invoice for my AC Delco encoder motor and it was new, bought from Amazon but from some other place. Cost me $265 and was NEW. I had sent in the Dorman that was a couple of years old for a refund since it quit, although it may have been stressed by the TC before it was rebuilt.

Thanks Fless. Will do!

 

[iamdub]

Side by side comparison with the non-broken rotor. New one just seems smaller to me and in this pic, you can tell...




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Welcome to the new age in brake wear items! They're designed to be a one-time-use/disposable item now. They're no longer thicker than needed to allow for resurfacing. The O'Reily's that I used to get my rotors resurfaced at is getting rid of their lathe, and they said other stores are doing the same because of this. When my PowerStop rotors bit the dust, I took my original rotors (glad I kept them!) to a mechanic shop that turned them for something like $8-$10 each.

 

[Rocket Man]

Welcome to the new age in brake wear items! They're designed to be a one-time-use/disposable item now. They're no longer thicker than needed to allow for resurfacing. The O'Reily's that I used to get my rotors resurfaced at is getting rid of their lathe, and they said other stores are doing the same because of this. When my PowerStop rotors bit the dust, I took my original rotors (glad I kept them!) to a mechanic shop that turned them for something like $8-$10 each.

I hope my Wilwood rotors aren’t one-time-use items. Just the stupid pads are $400 for all 4 wheels.

 

[Bear77]

Welcome to the new age in brake wear items! They're designed to be a one-time-use/disposable item now. They're no longer thicker than needed to allow for resurfacing. The O'Reily's that I used to get my rotors resurfaced at is getting rid of their lathe, and they said other stores are doing the same because of this. When my PowerStop rotors bit the dust, I took my original rotors (glad I kept them!) to a mechanic shop that turned them for something like $8-$10 each.

Well that just sucks...


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[Danny3737]

I’d hit those bare spots with a little rustoleum

Decided to clean up the grounds under the driver seat a little better. They weren’t terrible, but they’re a lot better now, and coated with dielectric grease.

 

[Fless]

If I were you I'd definitely start with checking and cleaning the connector for the encoder motor pigtail, and the connector on the TCCM. If not one of the connectors, it's more likely that the encoder motor is bad. If you can get connections to work, the Tech 2 can command the various 4wd modes and you can see what mode is really in effect.

For the encoder motors, I think that Dorman is the only company that makes them new now. From the research I did for mine, the rest in the field are remans. As @Doubeleive said, the encoder ring is replaceable.

EDIT: I looked back at my May 2019 invoice for my AC Delco encoder motor and it was new, bought from Amazon but from some other place. Cost me $265 and was NEW. I had sent in the Dorman that was a couple of years old for a refund since it quit, although it may have been stressed by the TC before it was rebuilt.

@Sam Harris to add to that, you may want to pull the dash switch and check that connection and ohm the switch modes. See this video, starting at about 2:05 or so.

The transfer case control switch resistance should be:
Auto4WD = 61.7-68.1 ohms
4HI = 656-760 ohms
2HI = 1.50-1.53 K ohms
4LO = 2.32-2.37 K ohms
Neutral = 1.015-1.035 K ohms

And I have a good OE switch if you need one. Of course it wouldn't match your blue lighting. Could bring it up with the fans....

 

[915_Tahoe]

The old girl is going under the knife today, I asked DR.Technician to get some pics while in surgery.

 

[Sam Harris]

@Sam Harris to add to that, you may want to pull the dash switch and check that connection and ohm the switch modes. See this video, starting at about 2:05 or so.

The transfer case control switch resistance should be:
Auto4WD = 61.7-68.1 ohms
4HI = 656-760 ohms
2HI = 1.50-1.53 K ohms
4LO = 2.32-2.37 K ohms
Neutral = 1.015-1.035 K ohms

And I have a good OE switch if you need one. Of course it wouldn't match your blue lighting. Could bring it up with the fans....

Awesome! Thanks much! I’ll have to do this and let you know. No worries about the LEDs. I can always do them again. I’m not finished with the door switches anyway. Lol.

 

[Fless]

The old girl is going under the knife today, I asked DR.Technician to get some pics while in surgery.

What is the diagnosis and prognosis? LOL