What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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trailblazer

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Made some distance diagnosing a ABS light problem - “passenger side seat belt anchor tensioner high resistance”. This rig has a rebuilt title and I have the original damage photos; head-on but not too bad. Well well well it looks like someone was too cheap to install OEM parts. I tested this resistor and it appears to have suffered from fretting and caused the high resistance. Checked the driver side seat belt anchor and yup - found another resistor. Thankfully this month genuine GM parts online has a 20% off code for body repair parts. Ordered both up for $278 but I have to drive 75 min each way to pick them up. Any other online retailers wants a minimum $65 HAZMAT fee to ship these. Tasca wanted $275 for SHIPPING!!!


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trailblazer

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Oh I forgot to mention how I did the “fuel rail” style injector cleaning job. I had this kit sitting in a box unused for years from Amazon. Hardest part was figuring out the logic to “trick” the car to start after pulling the 5A fuse for the fuel pump prime control and also the 30A fuel pump driver fuse. The primer system kicks on the fuel pump anytime you open the door — we want that OFF. This creates a problem, that little 5A fuse also allows the truck to start. The Amazon fuel injector cleaner kit requires the use of an air compressor. I used Berryman B12 Chemtool Thru-rail 1126 cleaner ($12 from Oreilly). It does not require any premixing with fuel and is specifically formulated for these fancy pressure pot cleaner delivery systems. I had my spouse monitor the disconnected main fuel line for any fuel shooting out. Once you got the liquid poured into the container and air pressure set, again verify the 30A Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) fuse to lockout the actual fuel pump is removed. With the engine “on” but not cranking, I just touched the 5A prime fuse for a second back in its slot and the car came alive and allowed me to start it. I should also note that I did run the fuel system “dry” by pulling the FPCM fuse while it was running which made it super easy to remove the main fuel line from the main connector. The engine ran for about ten minutes on the can of cleaner; no nasty smoke.

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trailblazer

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Just completed the wireless charger upgrade to the second generation. I scored a new condition 13521066 gen 2 charger off of eBay for $60 and it came with the plug. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 use the same color wiring scheme but the plugs (and individual female terminals) are different. If you try this mod, try to get a Gen 2 with an adapter pigtail or at least with a blunt-cut pigtail so you can match up and cut & crimp your truck’s existing harness. The bottom cover just pops off with a panel removal tool and the four screws that hold the charger onto the lid are T15 torx. Charger works great now! If only there was a way to get wireless Apple CarPlay without using some sort of off-brand CHICOM adapter. I’m very suspicious of using no-name CHICOM products that physically plug into or use wireless data with my mobile phone. Anyone here know of a reputable brand that has a wireless CarPlay adapter?


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RST Dana

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Just completed the wireless charger upgrade to the second generation. I scored a new condition 13521066 gen 2 charger off of eBay for $60 and it came with the plug. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 use the same color wiring scheme but the plugs (and individual female terminals) are different. If you try this mod, try to get a Gen 2 with an adapter pigtail or at least with a blunt-cut pigtail so you can match up and cut & crimp your truck’s existing harness. The bottom cover just pops off with a panel removal tool and the four screws that hold the charger onto the lid are T15 torx. Charger works great now! If only there was a way to get wireless Apple CarPlay without using some sort of off-brand CHICOM adapter. I’m very suspicious of using no-name CHICOM products that physically plug into or use wireless data with my mobile phone. Anyone here know of a reputable brand that has a wireless CarPlay adapter?


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