Upper and Lower Ball Joints w/wo Hub Removal

[Alberta Tahoe]

Subject: 2003 4WD Tahoe

A dozen searches seem to produce a dozen different answers. Same with watching some of the (inane) YouTube how-to videos.
My question: Is it entirely necessary to remove the bearing/hub assembly when replacing the ball joints?
Obviously I'm looking for the simplest solution.
One school of thought says yes. You have to remove the hub (and move the axle) so as to get a ball joint press in there.
Another says that the tried and true method of smashing the knuckle with a BFH will knock things apart (as I've done many times on vehicles other than this truck). Then use the press with the arm clear of the knuckle/hub and axle.
Still another suggestion is to remove the control arms and press out the ball joints on the bench.
Who has done and with what level of success?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Still another option is to use a death wheel and cut the joint in half between the knuckle (spindle) and the control arm. Then there's room to use a press to punch out the pieces.
Still waiting on a definitive answer.

 

[PG01]

Seems like you got it pretty well covered....

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

That may be but other than one YouTube video, I haven't heard of anyone else accomplishing this without removing the hub.
I suppose a fellow could give the hub intact approach a go and then if all else fails, remove it.
(I prefer 2WD)

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Is there something scaring you about removing the hub? It's pretty easy, really. You could put nice Timken ones on it then, too. They're only $100/side.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle. Removal has proven to be a major PITA in the past and if I don't have to do it, then I would just as soon avoid it.
Now at this point, there's no evidence that the hubs are less than satisfactory so I'm hopefully good to go there. Not that it's necessarily a price issue but a Timken hub is $220 up this way if go through a mail order house. $300 is I try the local auto parts store.(We get royally hosed on a lot a car parts here in Canada). If I can save the cost and aggravation, so much the better.
So, back to it. IS it doable or is that just wishful thinking on my part?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle. Removal has proven to be a major PITA in the past and if I don't have to do it, then I would just as soon avoid it.
Now at this point, there's no evidence that the hubs are less than satisfactory so I'm hopefully good to go there. Not that it's necessarily a price issue but a Timken hub is $220 up this way if go through a mail order house. $300 is I try the local auto parts store.(We get royally hosed on a lot a car parts here in Canada). If I can save the cost and aggravation, so much the better.
So, back to it. IS it doable or is that just wishful thinking on my part?

Anything is doable if you swear lots and hit it hard enough.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Truer words were never spoken. (And I've done plenty of both in all the days I've been working on vehicles. And to think at one time in my life I had considered making this a career.)

 

[mattbta]

I did all ball joints this summer on my Texas 2004. Owned since new. The hubs came off a hell of a lot easier than separating the lower BJ from the knuckle. After beating the knuckles into a deformed mess, it took a big pickle fork with a 6' piece of pipe over it to separate.

I mention Texas because we have no rust issues...but I had a hell of a time with separating the lower BJ. So much that I couldn't get I broken free all day Saturday and couldn't sleep all night worrying. Once it was separated, chiseling the edges off and pressing them out was cake. New ones went in easy.

I'd take the hub off. I can't remember if there was enough clearance get the press oriented.

 

[Bigbertha78]

I replaced all the ball joints and the bushings on the front suspension. I was able to remove the upper control and replace it with a complete new unit. Then, I was able to remove the lower control arm and have a shop press out the old bearing/bushings with new and reinstall. All without removing the hub assembly. I was able to replace them one at a time. Hopefully this will help.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I replaced all the ball joints and the bushings on the front suspension. I was able to remove the upper control and replace it with a complete new unit. Then, I was able to remove the lower control arm and have a shop press out the old bearing/bushings with new and reinstall. All without removing the hub assembly. I was able to replace them one at a time. Hopefully this will help.

Nice. Any pics?

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Well, for what it's worth, I've actually witnessed on video, the "Disgruntled Mechanic" knock the upper and lower ball joints out of his Silverado with the hub intact. I can't say much for his technique but he got results.
Now if the rust and corrosion isn't too bad, I'm hopeful that it can be accomplished in an afternoon. About the only tooling I'll have to get is the adapter set for my ball joint press.
Prior to any of this though will be some seat time in the truck to determine what else, if anything, should be replaced. I may end having to do the hubs after all. This is a recent purchase that's actually a replacement for my dead in the water 2006 version. For that machine, I've a Tech 2 scanner on order and with any luck, I'll soon have a fleet of Tahoes at my disposal.
Thanks for all of the input to this point. I'll welcome any and all contributions.

 

[M1Gunner]

Replace the the whole control arm, it doesn’t cost much more than the ball joint alone and now yout don’t have to worry about new CA bushings.

 

[6speedblazer]

if you dont want to pull the hub, just pop the upper bal joint, lower ball joint, tie rod end, abs wiring and pull the whole knuckle, hub and axle as an assembly. Its not the ideal method, but it can be done this way.

 

[Chubbs]

if you dont want to pull the hub, just pop the upper bal joint, lower ball joint, tie rod end, abs wiring and pull the whole knuckle, hub and axle as an assembly. Its not the ideal method, but it can be done this way.

That's what I was going to say; just unbolt the CV axle from the diff flange and then remove the spindle (as required anyway) with the axle/hub attached as a big a$$ assembly.

fWIW, i don't think you have found the better videos. There is a mechanic out of Alaska who does ball joints on a NBS with the spindle removed & the drive axle tied off to the side but he does NOT remove it. There is a "spelunked" DIYer on YouTube that also has some stuff. Another youTuber with great vids is 1Aauto. They have a tutorial for everything on NBS GM. I actually consider 1As stuff the end-all, be-all for instruct vids on these trucks. I have 1 other go-to that I refer to. I will post links to all of them but you will have to dig up the specific clips yourself. Even if it's not spec' a ball joint replace, anything with front drive axles, hubs, LCA will be fairly informative towards your application.

Oh. Here is the car doc vid I was talking about.

This guy DOES have a ball joint replace tutorial
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCU6ZasdR7eZjD9ouwHZB-2w

Pretty sure he has a full blown Upper/Lower BJ vid
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCnfX_6pggyR7asEImID1owA

He pulls the axle and Tcase, smart guy
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC4P0OCJw8_xaatVRjLpa4Hg

These guys are so good, I watch their LCA & CV replace just for grins
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCVvE8kQTuZEykvMFZBVzftg

 

[Matahoe]

No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle.

I guarantee those hubs have already been replaced at least once by 170k. The vibrations from a few raps with a regular carpenters hammer loosens much more in my experience then a 2 lb dead blow. I wouldnt go above a 2 lb mini sledge though. Another route is to buy used knuckles from ebay or junk yard or something. Wire-wheel the mating surfaces, give them a coat of rust preventive paint, slap in the hubs and your in business.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Replace the the whole control arm....

... pull the whole knuckle, hub and axle as an assembly...

... just unbolt the CV axle from the diff flange and then remove the spindle (as required anyway) with the axle/hub attached as a big a$$ assembly.

I should explain that what I'm trying to avoid here is any extra work. I've had a long career as a tradesman and one of the things I've learned is not doing what isn't necessary.
This isn't to say that any or all of those suggestions aren't good ones because I can see and understand that they are. It's just that I'm into this for a little effort as possible. Now if this were my car it would be different story. That's where something gets replaced if I have to put my hands on it once.

...fWIW, i don't think you have found the better videos.

I'm sure that I haven't and I say thanks for the links. I had forgotten about 1A Auto. I have a subscription to their YouTube channel.

I guarantee those hubs have already been replaced at least once by 170k. .

I'm not so sure about that. But maybe. I would be great if they have been. And with something other than the 1-year specials...

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Replace the the whole control arm....

... Another youTuber with great vids is 1Aauto...

I will say that after watching 1A Auto's upper control arm video that it looks enticingly easy. And possibly easier than trying to press the ball joint out of the a-arm.
Things that make you go hmm...

 

[roc1967]

My '02 Tahoe 4x4, 166k mi, 2nd owner, Indiana car, everything rust welded. I just overhauled the front suspension, replacing everything but pitman arm and idler arm. The YouTube videos helped a lot, with two notable deviations:
1) I didn't need to pull the half-shafts to replace the lower control arms. Wiggle and persistence did it.
2) I didn't have to unload the torsion bars.

The hub bearings were factory and a PITA to separate from the steering knuckles, but persistence won.

It was a lot of work but it paid off.


PS.: I didn't replace the steering knuckles, but de-rusted and painted it.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

I suspect my hubs are also original and are likely going to be difficult to remove. That said, it may that they don't need replacing or that they have been replaced. In either case, I'll log a few miles on this new to me truck and get a feel for what's in need of servicing and what can survive. At least until the weather warms up around these parts anyway.

I'll finally get a chance to drive it as I've been away since day one of ownership. Looking at the front tires, they're basically void of tread on the inside. Could be more than ball joints but at the very least, the certificate of mechanical fitness I received indicated that they needed replacement. I'll soon know.