Transmission Stumble

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

BG1988

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Posts
2,944
Reaction score
1,340
I just returned from MD to SC: 550mi., not towing, and the stumbling condition did not change for better or worse. Max temp was 172. I have a tm cooler coming so I’ll prob do the cooler, fluid and filter at the same time. I already flushed and replaced coolant.

I’m thinking about mounting the cooler below the bumper behind the lower grill, in clean air. It would lower the thermal load on all three systems. Any thoughts?
check the air filter, a clogged one can cause transmission issues check the MAF/IAT/MAP(if equipped) make sure it's correct readings
 
OP
OP
Tim907356

Tim907356

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Posts
40
Reaction score
29
Just an update; here's some pics of the installation. I cut through the plastic fascia behind the lower grill, and the lower bumper extension to create airflow. The cooler (tru cool 30k) mounted behind that. It's not plumbed in yet, as I didn't have any trans. fluid, but will be getting some today.

IMG_3620[1].JPG IMG_3622[1].JPG IMG_3621[1].JPG
 
OP
OP
Tim907356

Tim907356

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Posts
40
Reaction score
29
How do you know which transmission cooler line is the send line, and which is the return line???
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,359
Reaction score
2,339
It goes from the tranny, thru the radiator first, then the cooler, then back to the tranny.
 
OP
OP
Tim907356

Tim907356

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Posts
40
Reaction score
29
After the cooler install, I took it in for tranny service; change fluid/filter, and diagnosis. He said it all checked out fine. But then after some direct questions about the stumble, and overheating, he said the torque converter was going out; a common problem (at 130k??). He asked if I felt the 'little flutter' when it engages, which of course is my 'stumble', so yes. He also said the overheating was due to the torque converter wear.

$1700 was offered as the cost to replace the t.c. But also, if I let it go too long or pulled the trailer a long way, it would ruin the tranny and I'd be looking at double that for a rebuilt unit.
Thoughts on this info. and proposal?
 

thompsoj22

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Posts
689
Reaction score
714
Location
california native "REPUBLICAN" high desert
After the cooler install, I took it in for tranny service; change fluid/filter, and diagnosis. He said it all checked out fine. But then after some direct questions about the stumble, and overheating, he said the torque converter was going out; a common problem (at 130k??). He asked if I felt the 'little flutter' when it engages, which of course is my 'stumble', so yes. He also said the overheating was due to the torque converter wear.

$1700 was offered as the cost to replace the t.c. But also, if I let it go too long or pulled the trailer a long way, it would ruin the tranny and I'd be looking at double that for a rebuilt unit.
Thoughts on this info. and proposal?


Even if he is a highly experienced trans specialist his prognosis is a "guess" at a cost of $1700 of your vacation dollars. You are towing at close to max weight, Add a headwind and your relaxing RV road trip becomes a 3300 rpm 6 mpg white knuckler "are we there yet?" Just get out there, take your time, climb the grades at 45 mph in 4th and stay to the right with the big rigs. The hill will end and down the road you go. There is another forum member that did replace only the convertor on his trans but he did it himself in conjunction with rear main seal/pickup tube o ring. I would not advise doing it now, Take your trip and hope for the best. We also tow, It is ******* our 08 xl-1500 6.2, 143,000 miles our TT is 4300 lbs loaded and we average 8 mpg. Each time we "hitch up/load up" the little voice in the back of my mind is saying "hotel/restaurant". Im rambling, Maybe an aftermarket extended warranty would give you peace of mind on road trips?
 

1BADI5

Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
1,833
Reaction score
2,986
Location
DMV
Remember this tech tip gents......... Maintenance is always cheaper then repairs.

Blow a trans on vacation.........you've at best just tripled the cost of you repair.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,965
Reaction score
50,651
Location
Oregon
After the cooler install, I took it in for tranny service; change fluid/filter, and diagnosis. He said it all checked out fine. But then after some direct questions about the stumble, and overheating, he said the torque converter was going out; a common problem (at 130k??). He asked if I felt the 'little flutter' when it engages, which of course is my 'stumble', so yes. He also said the overheating was due to the torque converter wear.

$1700 was offered as the cost to replace the t.c. But also, if I let it go too long or pulled the trailer a long way, it would ruin the tranny and I'd be looking at double that for a rebuilt unit.
Thoughts on this info. and proposal?
I would call around for a few quotes before settling on that price but it does sound like the shop is probably right. And like others have said, if you would have had the trans serviced regularly you probably wouldn’t be in this position. I definitely wouldn’t be going on any long trips until you get it fixed. If it goes out when you’re a thousand miles from home the shop you get it towed to will surely rake you over the coals due to your dire situation.
 
OP
OP
Tim907356

Tim907356

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Posts
40
Reaction score
29
Well, after all the overheating was solved (a while ago,,,I know!) I just got back from Cincinatti, where the temps were 0-10deg. I came back during that snow event that shut down I-95, but cleanly, at least, down I-75.
When I did the transmission cooler installation, I did not put the thermostat in, partly because of issues with the shop I got it from. Now, I've got one in hand due to the cold temps I didn't anticipate. The TX never made it to 100deg. F. Im heading back tomorrow, and was going to install it today. However, knowing the flow direction is now critical!!
SO, some say it comes out of the TX lower port, some say the upper port. Earlier, donjetman said it comes from the TX, to the radiator, to the aux cooler, back to the tx. If this is the case, it comes from the upper TX port, and goes to the lower radiator port. This is opposite of most comments I've read, stating the lower TX port is the send.
Can anyone confirm this???
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,560
Reaction score
13,206
Location
Richmond, VA
Well, after all the overheating was solved (a while ago,,,I know!) I just got back from Cincinatti, where the temps were 0-10deg. I came back during that snow event that shut down I-95, but cleanly, at least, down I-75.
When I did the transmission cooler installation, I did not put the thermostat in, partly because of issues with the shop I got it from. Now, I've got one in hand due to the cold temps I didn't anticipate. The TX never made it to 100deg. F. Im heading back tomorrow, and was going to install it today. However, knowing the flow direction is now critical!!
SO, some say it comes out of the TX lower port, some say the upper port. Earlier, donjetman said it comes from the TX, to the radiator, to the aux cooler, back to the tx. If this is the case, it comes from the upper TX port, and goes to the lower radiator port. This is opposite of most comments I've read, stating the lower TX port is the send.
Can anyone confirm this???
@donjetman is spot on about the flow order. And, it flows from the transmission into the bottom of the radiator fluid cooler, and out the top of it to the aux transmission cooler, then back to the transmission.

Also, I missed your earlier posts about the recommendation you received from the shop about the TC, and I think they're right. I replaced the TC in my 2012 XL Denali proactively (I had a good transmission shop do it), and he said that the lockup clutch was really worn (at 120K), which is the problem that can take out the transmission when it finally goes because it sends shrapnel through the pump and valve body. So in my opinion, that is a wise upgrade to make proactively. The whole job was around $1400 out-the-door, including an upgraded TC with a billet cover and stronger lock-up clutch, new rear main seal since they had the transmission out anyway, new fluid and filter. I went with a CVC BU60-FHD torque converter on the shop's recommendation.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
129,117
Posts
1,810,713
Members
92,203
Latest member
firedog9518

Latest posts

Top