Transmission Question - 6L80E

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alpha_omega

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Does anyone have a list of repairs/replacements “suggested” when hitting the 100k mile mark on these transmissions? I know the obvious info listed in the owners manual and what’s listed in the Haynes manual, but is there anything additional that anyone knows of that should be inspected, tightened, or replaced while the trans pan is removed?
I’m replacing mine with the B&M (deeper pan plus it has the drain), plus draining the fluid, replacing the gasket, o-ring, filter and dipstick tube/dipstick, plus swapping out the stock trans cooler with a TruCool 40k. Am I missing anything with the transmission?
The other recent work includes front/rear Diff, engine oil/filter, engine oil dipstick tube and dipstick, new manifold, manifold gaskets, manifold bolts, Harmonic balancer, water pump, power steering pump & pulley, p/s lines, alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and battery. The only things I have yet to do are swap out the old K&N for an ARjr and replace my grille. All of the lights (minus the headlights) are all LED and I haven’t done them yet because they didn’t come stock w/ LED, which means I haven’t wanted to piss around with adding the components needed for the conversion. Luckily my taillights haven’t done the “LED blink” by switching over just the bulbs.
 

swathdiver

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Does anyone have a list of repairs/replacements “suggested” when hitting the 100k mile mark on these transmissions? I know the obvious info listed in the owners manual and what’s listed in the Haynes manual, but is there anything additional that anyone knows of that should be inspected, tightened, or replaced while the trans pan is removed?
I’m replacing mine with the B&M (deeper pan plus it has the drain), plus draining the fluid, replacing the gasket, o-ring, filter and dipstick tube/dipstick, plus swapping out the stock trans cooler with a TruCool 40k. Am I missing anything with the transmission?
The other recent work includes front/rear Diff, engine oil/filter, engine oil dipstick tube and dipstick, new manifold, manifold gaskets, manifold bolts, Harmonic balancer, water pump, power steering pump & pulley, p/s lines, alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and battery. The only things I have yet to do are swap out the old K&N for an ARjr and replace my grille. All of the lights (minus the headlights) are all LED and I haven’t done them yet because they didn’t come stock w/ LED, which means I haven’t wanted to piss around with adding the components needed for the conversion. Luckily my taillights haven’t done the “LED blink” by switching over just the bulbs.

Keep the fluid clean and shorten your intervals to 40K or so. The first signs of trouble with these things usually shows up at around 160K and that is the solenoids needing rebuilding, usually from extended 100k or more dirty, worn out fluid. Can be rebuilt on the kitchen table for about $100 plus fluids.
 
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alpha_omega

alpha_omega

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Keep the fluid clean and shorten your intervals to 40K or so. The first signs of trouble with these things usually shows up at around 160K and that is the solenoids needing rebuilding, usually from extended 100k or more dirty, worn out fluid. Can be rebuilt on the kitchen table for about $100 plus fluids.
Thanks. I had already decided on every 30k from here on out like I did with my 02’. It’s close to 400k miles right now but she’s been treated well over the years, otherwise I doubt she would have lasted longer than my first marriage.
 

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97audia4

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130k, every two oil changes its get 6 quarts of fresh fluid in the trans. I use the yuk for towing my race trailer around 6k all summer, or my dirt bike but i leave it drive for that so it does not really count. Only mods are a dyno tune, full catless headers and a 40k cooler. Even when my water pump was failing on a 90 degree day upstate Ny trans only saw 180. A tune with increased line pressure will help a ton. Ill have black stone do and analysis this winter and see what they say but fluid is still bright pink not much clutch dust on the magnet either .
 

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