So you are referring to power under the hood correct by the fuse box
Trailer connection help
- Thread starter Rosson03
- Start date
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
Yes. That's the only thing you should have to do.
There are two connections under the hood. One is to power a brake controller, which it seems you don't need. The other is to send power to the 7-blade connector in case you want to send 12v back to the trailer, perhaps to charge a battery.
You don't need either connection to have functioning trailer lights. As long as the trailer light fuses are good and in place the trailer light connection should work.
You don't need either connection to have functioning trailer lights. As long as the trailer light fuses are good and in place the trailer light connection should work.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
There are a couple spots on the frame rail which are grounding points for our Yukon’s/Tahoe’s.
One of which is in the rear of the vehicle drivers side near the bumper. 10mm x2 bolts holding the wires in place. Clean them and the frame. Reinstall the bolts through the wires ring and tighten it back to the frame.
The second one that gets bad is just below the drivers door. Same idea as above.
The one on the front bumper and the two on the motor rarely get corroded unless you’re running without a splash guard or are reckless with fluid changes.
One of which is in the rear of the vehicle drivers side near the bumper. 10mm x2 bolts holding the wires in place. Clean them and the frame. Reinstall the bolts through the wires ring and tighten it back to the frame.
The second one that gets bad is just below the drivers door. Same idea as above.
The one on the front bumper and the two on the motor rarely get corroded unless you’re running without a splash guard or are reckless with fluid changes.
If your trailer doesn’t have electric brakes, it probably doesn’t have a 7-blade plug either.
With this assumption I recommend getting this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SKYYI2O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
It’s a simple plug-n-play way to use a standard 4-flat trailer plug without having to deal with keeping track of an adapter, especially when there’s no good place to store one.
I’ve put the same unit on my 2009 Tahoe, 2010 Suburban 2500, and wife’s 2006 Envoy.
I won’t try to guess why GM does some random things a new way “just because”, but other times they understand that they don’t have to redesign stuff that already works.
The Hopkins 40920 is what I put on mine, too; like @EvergreenZ71 says, it's PnP. I have since painted my hitch.
