Traction control/stabilitrak off issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
Traction control/stabilitrak off issue **Update: Solved, see 1st post edit**

The other day when driving back to work from Home Depot, the traction control off/service stabilitrak lights lit up on the Tahoe. I pulled into the gas station, filled up, and hoped it was a fluke. Upon going to restart the truck, it was running REALLY rough. It barely started. Got it home after work, popped the hood, and low and behold the intake tube had popped loose from the throttle body (airraid tube). Disconnected the neg terminal, reattached the tube nice and tight, and let it sit overnight to make sure the code cleared out.

The next morning it fired right up, and off to work I went. Lunchtime rolls around and the damn stabilitrak warning came back on! It was intermittent, it came on only as I was coasting or sitting at a red light. Checked the tube, it was rock solid. Eventually it threw a CEL, so I stopped by the auto parts store after work to read the code. Banks 1 and 2 too rich. WTF?

I got home and disco'd the battery again, pulled the intake, checked all the fittings, gave the MAF sensor a good cleaning, and carefully reassembled everything. It lasted about a half a day before starting to act wonky again. Same thing is still going on. CEL with the same codes, and intermittent service stabilitrak/traction control off lights (with the resulting super-hard shift out of first gear) when coasting or sitting at a red light, then after accelerating and getting out of first gear it usually goes off and acts normally until I start slowing down again.

I'm at a loss. The intake doesn't appear to be cracked or damaged anywhere. Most of the time the truck starts up fine, but on occasion it struggles ever so slightly. Nothing like when the tube was off, but just a hair off of normal. Once it's running it seems normal. There has to be an intake/vacuum leak somewhere, but I have no idea where. Any suggestions?

-----UPDATE 12/31/2013: Issue Solved-----

Ok, so rather than making everyone read through the entire thread, I'll post the resolution here for everyone's edification.

This issue was 100% caused by the Airaid intake tube coming loose. When that happened, the engine was drawing air directly into the throttle body, completely bypassing the Mass Air Flow sensor. As a result, the ECM thought that the Air/Fuel Ratio was EXTREMELY leaned out because there was so much un-metered air coming into the engine. So, naturally, the computer started dumping fuel to "correct" what it assumed to be a lean fuel condition, which made the AFR super rich (hence the P0172 and P0175 codes, "banks 1 and 2 too rich"). When the injectors were maxed out and the problem still wasn't solved, the computer then assumed that there was E85 in the tank, and the flex fuel system activated the E85 fuel tables (obviously there wasn't E85 in the tank - not good). This left the injectors maxed out, which kept the AFR way too rich, and caused the rough starts and random stabilitrak/traction control issues because at idle, the computer was looking for E85 when gasoline was in the tank.

Essentially, the computer was extremely f**king confused. Eventually, my truck wouldn't even start because it was flooding itself with so much fuel during startup.

Rather than waiting for a scan cable to arrive, I just bit the bullet and ordered my own AutoCal. After receiving it, I simply hooked it up to my truck, connected my laptop and opened up the EFI Live software, and did an Ethanol % Correction. This zeroed out the fuel tables and allowed the computer to recognize the regular gasoline as gasoline, and not E85. Its been three days since the reset, and not a single issue has persisted.

I don't know if this issue would require a dealership re-flash of the stock computer if you aren't tuned and don't have access to EFI Live, but it's worth noting that if you have an aftermarket intake on a GMT900 truck, MAKE SURE that it's very tightly installed. If you have any questions about this, feel free to PM me. Thanks for reading!
 
Last edited:

smurfskier

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Check your Battery. Have it load tested. I know it sounds weird but our trucks get sensitive to a discharged battery. Hence why your issues are showing up at idle and low rpms when the alternator is not producing a lot of juice. I had a similar problem and after a lot of aggregation it ended up being the battery.
 
OP
OP
TheFuzz

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
How odd. Makes sense to me, it just seems odd that the problems would coincide with the intake tube popping loose. Stranger things have happened though I suppose. I have a battery tender here at work, I'll throw it on and see if that helps. Thanks smurf.

Edit: Battery Tender is hooked up an doing it's thing. I'll report back later with the results.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
TheFuzz

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
Well, charging the battery didn't do the trick. I guess I'll be getting a can of starting fluid and chasing a vacuum leak unless someone has a better idea...
 

marionso14

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Posts
28
Reaction score
0
I actually just experienced a similar issue with my 07 hoe. While driving all of a sudden my stabilitrak and traction control lights will flash as well as CEL. and it starts sputtering. I dont seem to lose much power as it continues at same speed and rpm but you can definitely feel the sputter. sometime sit is for a few seconds and sometimes it last for a few minutes. Usually turning of engine and restarting fixes it for the time being anyway. I happend to be parked while the lights came on once and i plugged in my Superchips tuner but it didnt read any codes. Im going to check my intake and throttle body and try that. I read on another forum that there is some sensor and or plug under the front bumper behind that lower grill somewhere that when wet can cause this issue. If you find a solution let us know! If i solve mine i will do the same!
 

Spank13

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
I just got my my 07 LTZ back today after a week of issues. I cleaned the throttle body hoping that was the source but I remembered I had gotten a 420 cat error previously (Tahoe had run fine) but it turns out it has gone bad for good and causing the engine to run terrible (like a banana stuck in a tailpipe). Do you have a rattle?
 

Marioski

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
101
Reaction score
3
Location
IL
As I'm reading your post I am checking to make sure it wasn't I who posted this. I literally have had the EXACT same issues pop up yesterday down to the T. Even posted about it (posts 50 and 55) http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54519&page=6

My truck started first with the Stabilitrack/Traction Control lights going off, then service 4wd (as it defaulted off of auto into 4wd), then a CEL light and started idling like crap. I limped it back home, pulled the codes and it showed LEAN in Banks 1 and 2. Started looking around and my MIT (AirRaid) tube popped off the TB. Reinstalled, cleared the codes and all seemed good. Today, it did something similar but now I got RICH in Banks 1 and 2 (believe it's code P0172). I pulled the MAF and TB and cleaned them with the appropriate cleaners. All is well for now.

This is too weird that it's the identical situations. I don't know how old my battery is as it was installed by the prior owner but maybe perhaps it is a battery. We are both in cold weather climates and by the date of your issues, it's when this arctic cold weather moved into our areas.
 

GM Customer Service

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Posts
1,099
Reaction score
32
Location
Michigan
Hello,

I am sorry to learn that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle, marionso14. I understand that you are looking for advice on how to resolve this issue yourself. I might not be able to give you any advice but I would like to look into this concern for you. Please private message me referencing this thread if I can be of any assistance.

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care
 

Marioski

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
101
Reaction score
3
Location
IL
Just want to post an update for you guys to possibly try. Have you guys cleaned the contacts on the megafuse connection? Mine were terrible on both the megafuse and the battery cable connectors. Took some scothbrite, cleaned all the contacts and also cleaned the battery terminals. Knock on wood, but I have not had any of the stabiltrack / 4wd service messages pop up, no cel light, and the voltage needle isn't as jumpy.
 

marionso14

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Posts
28
Reaction score
0
I have not tried that but i will give it a shot. I will be cleaning the MAF sensor and checking air intake connections as well
 
OP
OP
TheFuzz

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
Interesting. By "megafuse" are you just referring to the quick disconnect fuse box near the driver's side fender/firewall? I looked at mine briefly, it's covered in dirt/dust but doesn't seem corroded at all. I'll pull it out and check it later, maybe hit it with some compressed air to make sure nothing is screwing with the connections.

Also of note, the issue went away completely today on my way to work. The CEL went out on its own, no trac off/stabilitrak lights or hard shifts. Then, predictably, the CEL came back on as did the rest of the lights on my way home this evening. Oh well. Hoping that cleaning the fuse box takes care of the problem...it has to be something electrical the more that I think about it. It's far too intermittent to be anything else.
 

Marioski

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
101
Reaction score
3
Location
IL
No no. I'm talking about the 175amp megafuse that is on the passenger side firewall. The positive battery cable runs to it. Well sort off, one lead goes to the starter and the other goes to the one side of the fuse. The you have two other positive connections on the other side. One comes from the alternator and the other feeds power to the distribution / fuse junction box on the drivers side. The megafuse is covered by a black plastic cover. Pop that off, disconnect your batter and disconnect tr connections at the fuse. Clean them up and reinstall.

Mine looked like this
ygasaraz.jpg


7e5amejy.jpg



Sent from racephone

---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

Also dielectric grease will help in preventing more corrosion. Put some of that on your connections after you clean them.


Sent from racephone
 
OP
OP
TheFuzz

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
Ah gotcha. Sorry, electrical has never been my forte. Thanks for the pics, that helps. Batt looked ok but I will go re-check and pop the cover off of the megafuse.

Is it weird that I hope it's all corroded and nasty so that I can clean it and hope this freaking mess goes away? lol
 

Marioski

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
101
Reaction score
3
Location
IL
Nope not weird at all. I was like that to. I still don't know of that's what it was but it all stopped after I cleaned it all up. So I'll go with that! I also found there's a TSB for our battery cables corroding on one of the crimped ends (believe it's the positive battery cable). This was cheaper to try first and it's been fine. Knock on wood n


Sent from racephone
 

strokinpower

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Posts
195
Reaction score
1
This EXACT same thing happened to mine the other night. My wife threw me the keys and said my car is effed. I went and cleared the codes and they all came back. Decided to clean the MAF so I popped the hood and low and behold the intake tube wasn't connected and the MAF was installed backwards (arrow pointing to the airbox) guess that was my mistake. Anyway, cleaned the MAF hooked the intake back up and no more problems so far.
 

Marioski

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
101
Reaction score
3
Location
IL
So I wonder what's causing the airaid tubes to be popping off?


Sent from racephone
 

strokinpower

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Posts
195
Reaction score
1
probably because my wife cant drive she was probably out slamming speed bumps and 50 mph

---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 PM ----------

it most certainly probably doesn't have anything to do with me not tightening it good enough.
 
OP
OP
TheFuzz

TheFuzz

Idiot Police
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Posts
1,022
Reaction score
39
Location
Spurbury, VT
Well, I unfortunately didn't have much of anything on the fuse/battery cables. They were well oxidized on the parts that weren't covered by the fasteners, but the actual connections seemed fine and there was very little in the way of corrosion (none, except for one or two tiny spots).

Just the same, I wire brushed everything and cleaned it all up pretty well. I also pulled the QD fuse tray up and out and hit all of the connections with compressed air, just as an extra measure. No dielectric grease in my garage arsenal at the moment but if this does in fact solve the problem, I'll go back and grease everything up to ward off any future problems.

I drove to the gas station and filled up w/ Shell 91, picked up some take out, and drove back home without any issues (about 6 miles round trip). Can't call it a win just yet, but if I go more than a few days without the problems coming back I'll chalk it up to some odd electrical gremlin.

I also have to wonder WTF is going on with the Airaid tubes popping loose. Poor design on the rubber coupler maybe?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,712
Posts
1,990,209
Members
102,704
Latest member
Ralph Turner

Latest posts

Back
Top