Towing 6k lbs

[4cdndctn]

Hi Guys-
New (to me) '06 Denali here. Came from a diesel v10 Touareg and an '07 Tahoe before that. Really enjoying the Denali.

For those of you that are towing a boat/car or something in the 6k+ lbs range, what are your tire pressures? This vehicle seems extremely sensitive to tire pressures, with its already low factory recommendation, and while 30psi is good unloaded, I'm looking for stock wheel/tire size recommendations.

While on the topic, I don't think I'll add Hydroboost but are you guys upgrading to GMT900 brakes or just going with R1 Concept + Hawk Super Duty or something else?

Also interested in favorite backup cams as it's the one thing I think I'll be adding soon.

Thanks in advance!

 

[WildernessJeep]

Hi Guys-
New (to me) '06 Denali here. Came from a diesel v10 Touareg and an '07 Tahoe before that. Really enjoying the Denali.

For those of you that are towing a boat/car or something in the 6k+ lbs range, what are your tire pressures? This vehicle seems extremely sensitive to tire pressures, with its already low factory recommendation, and while 30psi is good unloaded, I'm looking for stock wheel/tire size recommendations.

While on the topic, I don't think I'll add Hydroboost but are you guys upgrading to GMT900 brakes or just going with R1 Concept + Hawk Super Duty or something else?

Also interested in favorite backup cams as it's the one thing I think I'll be adding soon.

Thanks in advance!

I tow my Jeep on a regular basis, with no problem. I do recommend a trailer brake, which is plug and play if you have the factory towing setup (most do).

 

[Jewel or Jalopy]

I'm assuming you have a WD hitch and sway control and trailer brakes.

When I tow I run my tires at the max cold PSI - 44 PSI. I like having the extra load capability and it seems pretty stable. I am running the stock Z71 size, 265/70R17 Michelin touring tires. I wish I had upgraded to a 18 to 20" wheel with lower profile tires.

I'm currently researching brakes as we have a long towing trip planned, and I'm not happy with the performance of the stock brakes. I need new rear pads, so will likely go with a higher performance rear pad. I'm looking into everything from just higher performance pads in front, to Hydroboost, to a GMT900 upgrade. At a minimum I'm going with better pads, just don't know which. I'm trying to find some data on pads not just opinions.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on the Touareg as a tow vehicle, all around vehicle and specifically it's reliability. I have to admit I've been tempted by them but like the Chevy's simplicity and ease of maintenance.

 

[The 'ER]

Hi Guys-
New (to me) '06 Denali here. Came from a diesel v10 Touareg and an '07 Tahoe before that. Really enjoying the Denali.

For those of you that are towing a boat/car or something in the 6k+ lbs range, what are your tire pressures? This vehicle seems extremely sensitive to tire pressures, with its already low factory recommendation, and while 30psi is good unloaded, I'm looking for stock wheel/tire size recommendations.

While on the topic, I don't think I'll add Hydroboost but are you guys upgrading to GMT900 brakes or just going with R1 Concept + Hawk Super Duty or something else?

Also interested in favorite backup cams as it's the one thing I think I'll be adding soon.

Thanks in advance!

Always run max cold PSI when towing. As far as brakes on 6k behind you the trailer should have brakes. That being said a good proportional brake controller is key and will require no upgrade to the brakes. I pull a 6k Malibu around with a Tekonsha P2 and it is excellent. Tekonsha is what we recommend and you get what you pay for.

 

[WildernessJeep]

Always run max cold PSI when towing. As far as brakes on 6k behind you the trailer should have brakes. That being said a good proportional brake controller is key and will require no upgrade to the brakes. I pull a 6k Malibu around with a Tekonsha P2 and it is excellent. Tekonsha is what we recommend and you get what you pay for.

Tekonsha is the bomb!!! You won't be sorry you got one. I drove that Jeep/Trailer combo around Colorado in the mountains, and was more worried about the tranny keeping cool than I was about the brakes.

 

[Jewel or Jalopy]

Tekonsha is the bomb!!! You won't be sorry you got one. I drove that Jeep/Trailer combo around Colorado in the mountains, and was more worried about the tranny keeping cool than I was about the brakes.

We also have a Tekonsha P2 I believe, simple, works great.

+1 on keeping the tranny cool, I need to upgrade my gauges.

 

[4cdndctn]

Thanks for the feedback. I have a Tek Prodigy Brake Controller; I couldn't imagine towing without a brake controller as the stock brakes are frankly inadequate for the way I drive. I decided my upgrade path is GMT900 front brakes with CarQuest premium rotors and pads unless someone can convince me of a better plan.

As for the tires and towing, the culprit was a bad set of Dunlops. I put on a new set of Firestones and all is well. I can't believe Dunlop allows the RV's to carry their name.

Regarding towing... Max cold is a bit extreme for me unless I was running soft sidewalls (like the POS Dunlops with 109 rating). My current 113 rated tires feel like they're crowning at 44PSI on the highway, I don't think I'll be taking them over 40 or so. What tires are you taking up to max cold The 'ER?

As for the Touareg, I would have kept it if I didn't need more seats. On their forums, you have a few complainers, many happy drivers, and a handful of experts. Working on the v10 is a bear --- you need to be prepared for some large bills. The v8 is generally good, the TDi's are a blast. The ride is far more sophisticated and sporty than the Denali's but I was looking for a refined truck feel and I found it. My only complaint right now is my last 6k lb truck had 996TT 6 piston brakes up front with 350MM rotors and these brakes are simple inadequate for my purposes. No one buys Touaregs for their ease of service or service cost; the German parts are simply inflated in ways you would only believe from experience.

Next I need to look into a tune, or something to help with grunt. The K&N and Flowmaster is a good start, although with a light foot and the AC on I am only managing 14.7 mixed per the computer, whether using 87 or 89. I'd like to optimize the AFR and shift points both for the street and towing. I've read plenty but I'll take any advice you guys are willing to give. I opted not to get the 6.2 w/ 6spd as I didn't want the same mileage but be stuck with 93oct. I'm not questioning my decision, rather hoping the motor wakes up a bit with some new maps.

Thanks Again

 

[The 'ER]

Thanks for the feedback. I have a Tek Prodigy Brake Controller; I couldn't imagine towing without a brake controller as the stock brakes are frankly inadequate for the way I drive. I decided my upgrade path is GMT900 front brakes with CarQuest premium rotors and pads unless someone can convince me of a better plan.

As for the tires and towing, the culprit was a bad set of Dunlops. I put on a new set of Firestones and all is well. I can't believe Dunlop allows the RV's to carry their name.

Regarding towing... Max cold is a bit extreme for me unless I was running soft sidewalls (like the POS Dunlops with 109 rating). My current 113 rated tires feel like they're crowning at 44PSI on the highway, I don't think I'll be taking them over 40 or so. What tires are you taking up to max cold The 'ER?

As for the Touareg, I would have kept it if I didn't need more seats. On their forums, you have a few complainers, many happy drivers, and a handful of experts. Working on the v10 is a bear --- you need to be prepared for some large bills. The v8 is generally good, the TDi's are a blast. The ride is far more sophisticated and sporty than the Denali's but I was looking for a refined truck feel and I found it. My only complaint right now is my last 6k lb truck had 996TT 6 piston brakes up front with 350MM rotors and these brakes are simple inadequate for my purposes. No one buys Touaregs for their ease of service or service cost; the German parts are simply inflated in ways you would only believe from experience.

Next I need to look into a tune, or something to help with grunt. The K&N and Flowmaster is a good start, although with a light foot and the AC on I am only managing 14.7 mixed per the computer, whether using 87 or 89. I'd like to optimize the AFR and shift points both for the street and towing. I've read plenty but I'll take any advice you guys are willing to give. I opted not to get the 6.2 w/ 6spd as I didn't want the same mileage but be stuck with 93oct. I'm not questioning my decision, rather hoping the motor wakes up a bit with some new maps.

Thanks Again

Good choice with car quest. Never had an issue with their private brand. I run BF Goodrich KM2's at max pressure when towing. Reason being that is where your strength comes from. I work at an RV dealership and we see it all the time people overloading their truck and I will try and find the picks of the rollover from an underrated tire that was not inflated properly. Really a mangled mess but everybody walked away from the crash.

 

[livingez_123]

I was impressed when the v10 diesel come out. it's tq #'s were very good. at the time I was driving a 97 Dodge with a cummins and it was only rated at 440 ft lbs and it towed anything I could put behind it. I'm sure the Touareg was a very capable tower. But the down side of driving a gas suv is the lack of tq. the days of just driving over hills are gone. now it will be downshift after downshift and a bunch of RPM just to keep it going. dont get me wrong, I love my Denali but it just doesn't have the tq to tow efficiently.

 

[The 'ER]

Then there is only one solution.... Duraburb!

 

[Jewel or Jalopy]

After doing more research the past few days (yay vacation) I'm leaning towards Centric Fleet Duty pads. http://www.centricparts.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=230

I haven't found anything bad about them except for dust. I can live with dust, but I'm also looking at the Posi-Quiet Ceramics.

I haven't decided if I'm going the GMT-900 updgrade, Hydroboost or both just yet.

Thanks for the info on the VW. I've had a few BMW's so I get the German maintenance costs. Our last was a 540it wagon, fast, comfortable and fun to drive. But spent $3k the first year in maintenance, and I did all the work. Ouch.

We also drove a Denali before buying our Tahoe, and I liked it. All the ones we drove were trashed, and I didn't like the MPG. We scored a deal on our Tahoe thanks to a nasty divorce and the 5.3 is powerful enough for us for now.

 

[livingez_123]

Then there is only one solution.... Duraburb!

yup! but I have seen a few 5.9 cummins in the Suburban's and it fit's so much nicer. you have room to work on things. I think a 3rd gen cummins would be a real nice swap. you could go to even a later 6.7 and 6spd auto. nothing like 800 ft lbs of torque to move things down the road.

 

[kschumake83]

After doing more research the past few days (yay vacation) I'm leaning towards Centric Fleet Duty pads. http://www.centricparts.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=230

I haven't found anything bad about them except for dust. I can live with dust, but I'm also looking at the Posi-Quiet Ceramics.

I haven't decided if I'm going the GMT-900 updgrade, Hydroboost or both just yet.

Thanks for the info on the VW. I've had a few BMW's so I get the German maintenance costs. Our last was a 540it wagon, fast, comfortable and fun to drive. But spent $3k the first year in maintenance, and I did all the work. Ouch.

We also drove a Denali before buying our Tahoe, and I liked it. All the ones we drove were trashed, and I didn't like the MPG. We scored a deal on our Tahoe thanks to a nasty divorce and the 5.3 is powerful enough for us for now.

I actually like Autozone's SD brakes, I put them on my Silverado that would run through brake pads like they were made of plastic and they lasted very long and would stop my truck with a 8000 lb trailer behind it like it wasn't there. The trailer brakes were not very good either, it had a surge hydraulic setup on it that sucked, I ended up selling that trailer and I am looking for one that is a bit more suited for towing with the Tahoe. So if you know anyone in the Pennsylvania area looking to get rid of a car trailer let me know.

 

[ebxgsxr]

a friend of mine had installed NAPA's adaptive one ceramic pads & the new NAPA Reactive one brake rotors. he towed a huge trailer with his Tundra & said they stopped on a dime. i am only going to be doing moderate towing when i tow my Jeep to the trails, so i think mine will be an overkill. but who ever complained about more stopping power.

 

[Jewel or Jalopy]

Thanks for the recommendations guys I will check them out.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

 

[ktmhans]

I'd recommend the bb tune with autocal. I town 7k lbs with mine all the time and its a night and day difference especially on shifting pulling hills. And the power the engine puts out. It takes some work and patience to get set up but worth it.

I also put air red bags in the back to level and that was priceless as well.

 

[4cdndctn]

I'd recommend the bb tune with autocal. I town 7k lbs with mine all the time and its a night and day difference especially on shifting pulling hills. And the power the engine puts out. It takes some work and patience to get set up but worth it.

I also put air red bags in the back to level and that was priceless as well.

I think I'm going to go with BB, thank you. Do you have the 5.3 or 6.0?
As far as the bags, is that because you do not have auto leveling or you wanted the extra support? Thanks

 

[jdpber]

The rear suspension needs the added SUPORT of the bags to support the weight. Auto level can only do so much. Auto level is designed for a set weight range. And we'll plain and simple it is only a few Hundo of cargo. Not 5k+ no there is not that much tong weight but your still looking at 400-600# tong weight. Then if you have cargo or people or subs. You need that added air bag support so that you don't over stress the suspension. This is mainly a saftey issue as your front end will be loose "pop wheelie effect" and front can walk side to side not to mention head lights point high. Simply put it is not safe.

 

[The 'ER]

The rear suspension needs the added SUPORT of the bags to support the weight. Auto level can only do so much. Auto level is designed for a set weight range. And we'll plain and simple it is only a few Hundo of cargo. Not 5k+ no there is not that much tong weight but your still looking at 400-600# tong weight. Then if you have cargo or people or subs. You need that added air bag support so that you don't over stress the suspension. This is mainly a saftey issue as your front end will be loose "pop wheelie effect" and front can walk side to side not to mention head lights point high. Simply put it is not safe.

The man knows his stuff... Seem to recall him making a good safety decision. I still need some high res shots of the hitch if you get time. We just had a guy come in with his 01 dodge lifted and he is pulling a FW around. He is mental!

 

[jdpber]

Oh what type shots you want?