Throttle body clean '03 6.0

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tungsten

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Going to clean mine today,any tips ? 03 Silverado 6.0
 

OR VietVet

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IMO, best to watch at least 3 you tubes for this. Use the cleaner available at the parts store and follow the directions but watching it done would help me and help with memory.
 
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tungsten

tungsten

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IMO, best to watch at least 3 you tubes for this. Use the cleaner available at the parts store and follow the directions but watching it done would help me and help with memory.
Ok thanks. Watched a few. Is it true that it’s ok to move the throttle while cleaning? Was just going to use an old tooth brush.
 
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tungsten

tungsten

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Also assuming there’s a gasket? Get a new one or can I re use? Thanks
 

OR VietVet

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I recommend cleaning the throttle body off the rig and when remove, if the o-ring seal looks good, it can be reused. Since you are drive by wire, I highly recommend that you do not move the throttle plate during cleaning. That is why you take it off, for access to the rear as well as the front. If you do move the throttle plate, it will likely not idle right and then have to drive for a while to re-calibrate the system, so best not to move that throttle plate. I would just get a new seal, for just in case but if was me, I always replace with new seal if I take the throttle body off for any reason. I use a very thin film of petroleum jelly to help hold the new seal in place during throttle body reinstall. Use a soft bristled tooth brush to help clean. You said 2003, so should be drive by wire but if is a cable design, you can move throttle plate but I still would not do a wide open throttle.
 
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tungsten

tungsten

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I recommend cleaning the throttle body off the rig and when remove, if the o-ring seal looks good, it can be reused. Since you are drive by wire, I highly recommend that you do not move the throttle plate during cleaning. That is why you take it off, for access to the rear as well as the front. If you do move the throttle plate, it will likely not idle right and then have to drive for a while to re-calibrate the system, so best not to move that throttle plate. I would just get a new seal, for just in case but if was me, I always replace with new seal if I take the throttle body off for any reason. I use a very thin film of petroleum jelly to help hold the new seal in place during throttle body reinstall. Use a soft bristled tooth brush to help clean. You said 2003, so should be drive by wire but if is a cable design, you can move throttle plate but I still would not do a wide open throttle.
Yup its drive by wire.
Thanks,looks easy enough but i always like to ask first.
 

OR VietVet

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Usually, the biggest PITA is the air snorkel removal. Like I said, "you tube videos can be your friend" but always watch more than 1 video. Some of those video makers are absolute hacks.
 
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tungsten

tungsten

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All right so got it off. I appear to have an aftermarket one with a spacer.
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Looks good and dirty.
 
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tungsten

tungsten

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Cleaned up,a part of me wants to take the butterfly plate off but Im not doin' it.
 

MassHoe04

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All right so got it off. I appear to have an aftermarket one with a spacer. View attachment 384534Looks good and dirty.
Maybe a new filter will help move more air. A good quality paper filter that gets replaced once in a while can often do more for performance than the wire mesh filters that get scrubbed clean. Depending on how long that mesh filter has been at work, you can scrub 'til the cows come home and still have a lot of the filter pores clogged with dirt.

I put a K&N mesh filter on my 95 Dodge Ram 5.9L with the idea I could save money and get more performance. Turned out that I did neither. I had good intentions of scrubbing the dirt off and cleaning the mesh filter and re-oiling the media. That NEVER happened. I found out later, that the mesh filters let more air through when new and clean. But the larger pores tended to let more dust and grit into the intake (not good).

They look cool, and it is personal choice. But, a good clean stock paper filter just might give a better flow for you.

If you keep the mesh, I would at least offer the suggestion of replacement of the filter.
 

OR VietVet

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Don't like mesh K&N stuff. The spacer is supposed to help cool air flow. Two seals now.
 

MassHoe04

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The stock air box is a CAI and will do a great job flowing the right amount of cold air to the intake on a stock engine.

If you have a totally built out engine, then maybe you need more than stock set-up.

But for basic engine, I don't see the stock airbox/filter holding back performance to any noticeable degree.

You could easily go back to a stock system from a salvage yard pretty cheap and get a good paper filter for the stock box. The original is a CAI, plus has a built-in flow meter to let you know when the filter needs to be replaced. That is something not included on any of the mesh systems...

So unless you have a really hopped-up engine, stock may actually be better match for you.
 

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your existing filter is probably fine, Some are washable if the material is not straight paper and looks more like a cotton you can just dip it in a bucket of warm slightly suddsy water and just swish it around, rinse with a hose and repeat until it is no longer dirty. then let it fully dry and reinstall. optionally you can take it off and knock any loose dirt of it without smacking on it to hard, then hook up a air compressor hose or reverse the hose on a shop vac and blow it out real good. then reinstall.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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Usually, the biggest PITA is the air snorkel removal. Like I said, "you tube videos can be your friend" but always watch more than 1 video. Some of those video makers are absolute hacks.
I'm jumping in to an "old" thread. What's the story of needing to reset the idle using a two-way scan tool? This seems to be associated to cleaning the TB. If I take the TB off to clean it and don't move the blade is a relearn needed? Will the relearn happen without a scan tool? My LTFTs all seem to be running a bit high (8-10%) so I'm thinking to clean the TB and see what happens. Thanks.
 

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