The Bose add an amp nightmare

[Big2014Baby]

I have been fighting the Bose garbage in my 2014 GMC Yukon Denali XL for months. Please, if you are going to say THIS has been discussed, provide a LINK TO WHERE or respectfully shut your yap. My quest has boiled down to this question. Which is positive and negative? Green Red / White Green Stripe White Red Stripe? Which? I don have an altimeter, a potato, a witch doctor or a multimeter. Here is the harness in question. Also for your amusement, a photograph of the rabbit hole under the cup holders in the center console. Also, dear Bose, I hate you. Maybe instead of making audio equipment you should manufacture pink yard flamingos. Thanks in advance, you GM guys are the best. -Jarin

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

However, given your introduction verbiage, I will "respectfully shut my yap".

Have a good day.

 

[Big2014Baby]

I have been searching hard for this information, or wiring diagrams for weeks. Honestly I am about to put the thing together regardless. Just like Las Vegas baby, roulette 50/50 odds. Thank you for your comment, and any information would be most appreciated. Best wishes- Jarin

 

[mikez71]

From what I can see in the wiring diagrams...

red is + and green is - ... for the tweeters..

 

[Doubeleive]

I have been fighting the Bose garbage in my 2014 GMC Yukon Denali XL for months. Please, if you are going to say THIS has been discussed, provide a LINK TO WHERE or respectfully shut your yap. My quest has boiled down to this question. Which is positive and negative? Green Red / White Green Stripe White Red Stripe? Which? I don have an altimeter, a potato, a witch doctor or a multimeter. Here is the harness in question. Also for your amusement, a photograph of the rabbit hole under the cup holders in the center console. Also, dear Bose, I hate you. Maybe instead of making audio equipment you should manufacture pink yard flamingos. Thanks in advance, you GM guys are the best. -Jarin

all your radio wiring identification starts on page C63

https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2014_Elec_HD_FS_CKTruck_100713.pdf

 

[Big2014Baby]

That makes sense to me also, however, as I understand it, this particular cluster of wires are the "Pre-Amp" signal, so I have heard, feeding directly from the head unit aka stereo to the Bose GM factory amplifier. Work of genius that it is. I was told by some DEFINITELY competent youtubers that by tapping into the...um...white green red "stripey" part I could draw a low level RCA jack signal without interrupting any OEM or Bose related functions. There are several decent step by step guides on how to butcher this innocent wiring harness, but absolutely 0 information about the final connection to the amplifier's RCA input Jacks. Apparently, a whole bunch of people sell $100 magical plug-n-play harnesses, but that ain't how I roll. I have to whine on the forums and do wiring the hard way.

 

[Big2014Baby]

all your radio wiring identification starts on page C63

https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2014_Elec_HD_FS_CKTruck_100713.pdf

Thank you for that excellent manual sir. I have downloaded it. The very next moment I am in the proximity of a competent human I will beg them to interpret it for me.

 

[Doubeleive]

That makes sense to me also, however, as I understand it, this particular cluster of wires are the "Pre-Amp" signal, so I have heard, feeding directly from the head unit aka stereo to the Bose GM factory amplifier. Work of genius that it is. I was told by some DEFINITELY competent youtubers that by tapping into the...um...white green red "stripey" part I could draw a low level RCA jack signal without interrupting any OEM or Bose related functions. There are several decent step by step guides on how to butcher this innocent wiring harness, but absolutely 0 information about the final connection to the amplifier's RCA input Jacks. Apparently, a whole bunch of people sell $100 magical plug-n-play harnesses, but that ain't how I roll. I have to whine on the forums and do wiring the hard way.

What is the end goal here?
it should be noted that the bose amp in your vehicle is digital so doing anything without a module may be "tricky" at best
you could get a amp filtered line level out signal without much hassle
your RPO code list shown in the glove box is the reference you need to use for more detailed information as referenced in the pdf wiring diagram I linked

 

[Big2014Baby]

The end goal is to add this...

 

[Big2014Baby]

The end goal is to add this...because I can. Hypothetically.

 

[Big2014Baby]

That is a Jensen 600 W 2 OHM hooked to a 12" sub, and a Jensen 1000 W 4 OHM hooked up to a 12" mid. I built it myself mostly. Everything is wired up and squared away except the signal out to RCA jacks...I have been tinkering with it since August and I have nearly reached the point I am going to pull the interior and purge the Yukon of every piece of that Bose trash. If the guy that bought this new had gone cheap on the stereo this would have been a 2 hour project.

 

[Big2014Baby]

You are right, the Bose amp is digital. I was thinking about why I didn't pull the interior and purge the Bose garbage on day 1. A bunch of the OEM beeps and dings, and other happy car noises run through the digitized Bose amplifier under the center console. Just tearing it out, like a rational human being would want to do, messes up many normal audio functions. Apparently the trick to adding an amplifier is to tap into the audio signal BEFORE it gets into the Bose amp. There are numerous ways of doing this, or so I hope. I have decided to do it without buying a wiring harness. Wish me luck. Here is step 1...

 

[iamdub]

You are right, the Bose amp is digital. I was thinking about why I didn't pull the interior and purge the Bose garbage on day 1. A bunch of the OEM beeps and dings, and other happy car noises run through the digitized Bose amplifier under the center console. Just tearing it out, like a rational human being would want to do, messes up many normal audio functions. Apparently the trick to adding an amplifier is to tap into the audio signal BEFORE it gets into the Bose amp. There are numerous ways of doing this, or so I hope. I have decided to do it without buying a wiring harness. Wish me luck. Here is step 1...

What wires are you tapping in to?

 

[Doubeleive]

You are right, the Bose amp is digital. I was thinking about why I didn't pull the interior and purge the Bose garbage on day 1. A bunch of the OEM beeps and dings, and other happy car noises run through the digitized Bose amplifier under the center console. Just tearing it out, like a rational human being would want to do, messes up many normal audio functions. Apparently the trick to adding an amplifier is to tap into the audio signal BEFORE it gets into the Bose amp. There are numerous ways of doing this, or so I hope. I have decided to do it without buying a wiring harness. Wish me luck. Here is step 1...

your best option if using the stock headunit is to grab a LC2, and hopefully tap into the pre-amp signal, it will sound the best.
then disable the ANC because otherwise the mic's are going to create feedback and hum

 

[iamdub]

your best option if using the stock headunit is to grab a LC2, and hopefully tap into the pre-amp signal, it will sound the best.
then disable the ANC because otherwise the mic's are going to create feedback and hum

Yup- ditching the stock HU opens up a world of improvements and possibilities. I'd go this route for sound improvement and easy upgradeability before trying to nab an altered signal from the factory system.

 

[mikez71]

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

I thought the blue/white wire was a purple/white wire in your earlier photos!
Here is the diagram for the sub.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Another reason I'm glad I don't have the Bose setup.

 

[89Suburban]

"Sub"d

 

[iamdub]

I'm wondering if the later models of Bose sucked. I can't claim to be an all-out audiophile, but I have an ear for clean and balanced sound. I always thought the Bose in my '08 sounded pretty good for what it was. I knew it could be better suited to my tastes and swapping in an HU with a 13-band EQ and more low-level power did it for me. Adding and controlling a sub was easy since I had RCAs on the HU.

 

[Big2014Baby]

I agree, they sound great. The problem with Bise is they intentionally design their systems to be incompatible with anything else. Another issue, is that UNLIKE reputable audio equipment manufacturers, they don't publish any specs od their equipment, such as amp, OHM or hz or the level of output signal.