The Bose add an amp nightmare

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Doubeleive

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I agree, they sound great. The problem with Bise is they intentionally design their systems to be incompatible with anything else. Another issue, is that UNLIKE reputable audio equipment manufacturers, they don't publish any specs od their equipment, such as amp, OHM or hz or the level of output signal.
that stems from Bose having a very very long history of keeping there trademark sound secret, besides most specs you see for other audio equipment are fake anyway or are only "peak" levels, a 1000w amp is not 1000 watt's, it might make 1000 watts for a split second-maybe
I have the same system in my yukon denali, I upgraded the head unit to a pioneer nex with wireless android, maestro rr interface, added a amp and subs, disabled the bose anc and it sounds pretty good. I would have to spend another couple thousand to make it sound any better
 

Doubeleive

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I'm wondering if the later models of Bose sucked. I can't claim to be an all-out audiophile, but I have an ear for clean and balanced sound. I always thought the Bose in my '08 sounded pretty good for what it was. I knew it could be better suited to my tastes and swapping in an HU with a 13-band EQ and more low-level power did it for me. Adding and controlling a sub was easy since I had RCAs on the HU.
it sucked on my 18 silverado, the wifes 16 suburban is not too bad we added a lc2 and a amp and subs and it sounds better, a lc3 or a pro model would probably make it little bit better but been spending money on xmas...
 

iamdub

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I agree, they sound great. The problem with Bise is they intentionally design their systems to be incompatible with anything else. Another issue, is that UNLIKE reputable audio equipment manufacturers, they don't publish any specs od their equipment, such as amp, OHM or hz or the level of output signal.

I don't think any car manufacturer designs their cars with the purpose to be modified at such an intimate level. GM partnered with Bose for the audio who I'm sure also never put the first thought into how they could make it easy to be modified. The Bose speakers were designed to work as a system with a specific amp and in a particular vehicular environment. Proprietary, not top secret.

Mercedes, Tesla... Hell, even NASA design systems that average Joes wouldn't be able to modify with no adverse repercussions. I'm 100% certain the reason has nothing to do with making those Joes' lives more difficult.

To further piss on your parade, if you're getting your sub signal from the wires that go to the factory sub, you might have less-than-stellar results. That signal is optimized for that small sub and is actively modified while playing. It might not work so well for a larger amplified sub. You really need a full-range signal going to the amp and let the crossover on the amp do the filtering. Or, maybe it'll sound just fine to you. It only matters to your ears and there's only one way to find out.
 
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Joseph Garcia

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I did say that I would "respectfully shut my yap" on this thread, but @iamdub comments above are spot on. Tapping into the Bose sub input signals to power another sub amplifier and associated sub-woofer would be a piss poor idea.
 

Rocket Man

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Multimeters are $15. If you’re going to work on electrical, you’re an idiot for not buying one before you come onto a public forum and sound like an idiot. Thats all I have to say. I really can’t believe anyone would want to help after reading that first post. Jeezus. Made me feel angry. Such disrespect. :(
 

Macks2DrTahoe

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OK Big2014Baby here is the solution to your audio issue.

:superhack:


You sound like a person who can follow the instructions and be up and running in about 2-4 hours.

This beats chasing electrons and has RCA outputs to connect to your sub amp.

I put the 2020 version (8 inch screen) in my 2010 Acadia and the 2022 version (10 inch screen) in my 2015 Silverado. No issues with either so far.

The Acadia had the Bose system so I just ran speaker wires from the HU to the speakers. RCA to a powered sub (Acadia was the wife's ride). Took me about 2 hours. Back Up Camera took about another hour.

The Silverado was basically plug and play. Took out the radio and replaced it with the android HU.

Good luck! Take and post pics. Let us know hows it going/goes.

Lots of great info and interesting folks on this forum.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!:thumbsup:
 

mikez71

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I am hoping the OP finishes his original plan, because I'm curious how good/bad it can sound!

What everyone seems to be saying is, "you can't add an aftermarket sub/amp to the stock bose system, it won't sound right" ?
I know the speakers have different impedances, but that shouldn't affect the line out signal..
If the sub output from headunit was shaped, you could maybe tap into the regular speaker outputs? (which may be tweaked worse for a sub...)
If the stock headunit output is tweaked so much that bass suffers from all outputs, then I guess you're SOL. (that maybe the case based on all the feedback)

An ugly option might be to use the headphone jack? (ASSUMING that shouldn't be shaped!)
 

Doubeleive

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I am hoping the OP finishes his original plan, because I'm curious how good/bad it can sound!

What everyone seems to be saying is, "you can't add an aftermarket sub/amp to the stock bose system, it won't sound right" ?
I know the speakers have different impedances, but that shouldn't affect the line out signal..
If the sub output from headunit was shaped, you could maybe tap into the regular speaker outputs? (which may be tweaked worse for a sub...)
If the stock headunit output is tweaked so much that bass suffers from all outputs, then I guess you're SOL. (that maybe the case based on all the feedback)

An ugly option might be to use the headphone jack? (ASSUMING that shouldn't be shaped!)
that's why you need a bass module to at least attempt to make it sound decent, even then it's not quite right but is good enough without changing out the headunit.
 

Rocket Man

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I am hoping the OP finishes his original plan, because I'm curious how good/bad it can sound!

What everyone seems to be saying is, "you can't add an aftermarket sub/amp to the stock bose system, it won't sound right" ?
I know the speakers have different impedances, but that shouldn't affect the line out signal..
If the sub output from headunit was shaped, you could maybe tap into the regular speaker outputs? (which may be tweaked worse for a sub...)
If the stock headunit output is tweaked so much that bass suffers from all outputs, then I guess you're SOL. (that maybe the case based on all the feedback)

An ugly option might be to use the headphone jack? (ASSUMING that shouldn't be shaped!)
I don’t believe there is a line out signal to the Bose amp, at least not one that can be used without some sort of converter since Bose uses proprietary systems that don’t always work well with others, like aftermarket stuff does. Thus why most people swap out the head unit. Not only do you get cleaner and more bass, but you gain a lot of adjustability with a dedicated sub out signal. It just sounds so much better.
 

iamdub

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I don’t believe there is a line out signal to the Bose amp, at least not one that can be used without some sort of converter since Bose uses proprietary systems that don’t always work well with others, like aftermarket stuff does. Thus why most people swap out the head unit. Not only do you get cleaner and more bass, but you gain a lot of adjustability with a dedicated sub out signal. It just sounds so much better.

Aftermarket HU 100%.

IIRC, there are two styles of Bose HU/amp systems. With one style, the HU sends a full-range analog signal to the Bose amp. You can intercept the channels of the full-range signal before it goes into the amp to connect that to your aftermarket amp. My original plan before I wised up and got the aftermarket HU was to tap some female RCA pigtails to these wires.

The other style of Bose amp ("Lux"?) has a digital signal sent to the amp and it processes everything, including the volume level. So you can't just tap into some wires.
 

Rocket Man

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Aftermarket HU 100%.

IIRC, there are two styles of Bose HU/amp systems. With one style, the HU sends a full-range analog signal to the Bose amp. You can intercept the channels of the full-range signal before it goes into the amp to connect that to your aftermarket amp. My original plan before I wised up and got the aftermarket HU was to tap some female RCA pigtails to these wires.

The other style of Bose amp ("Lux"?) has a digital signal sent to the amp and it processes everything, including the volume level. So you can't just tap into some wires.
Oh yeah I forgot there’s a lower level Bose system too. I have the Lux system in my 02 but I went with a Pioneer HU and left the Bose Lux amp running all the speakers ( I replaced those with aftermarket) except the sub which has its own amp running off the sub out on the head unit. I call it a hybrid system where I utilized the best of both systems and I didn’t have to rewire the whole truck.
Edit: I don’t know about the lower level Bose amps but in my experience the amps are fine, the weak point is the head units and once you replace them with a good aftermarket HU it sounds so much better and then if you add in a sub off that head unit you have a good system without too much work.
 

iamdub

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Oh yeah I forgot there’s a lower level Bose system too. I have the Lux system in my 02 but I went with a Pioneer HU and left the Bose Lux amp running all the speakers ( I replaced those with aftermarket) except the sub which has its own amp running off the sub out on the head unit. I call it a hybrid system where I utilized the best of both systems and I didn’t have to rewire the whole truck.

This is pretty much what I'm aiming for with mine. I like my Bose system. There's a lot of R&D there that I have no reason to reinvent. I do want to replace the speakers and will use aftermarket of the same/similar impedance, or as reasonably close as possible. I wanna keep the Bose sub as it's very efficient and great for long-throw midbass fill. For hard-hitting lows, I don't mind having a large sub box in the cargo area. At least, not now. I'll be cursing myself when I need to remove it.


Edit: I don’t know about the lower level Bose amps but in my experience the amps are fine, the weak point is the head units and once you replace them with a good aftermarket HU it sounds so much better and then if you add in a sub off that head unit you have a good system without too much work.

Word. Just changing the HU, alone, made a world of improvement in mine, and I already thought it was pretty good. Never mind having all the extra features that comes along with the aftermarket HUs.
 

Macks2DrTahoe

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I like my tunes so I always upgrade to an audio system that I like.

2019 and older car and truck audio systems usually suck. I don't have anything newer than a 2015 so I upgrade.

I like the 'no moving parts' and price of android HUs. Lots of features. And I can afford them.

I'm old school so I still add mixer/EQ then an amp for the speakers and an amp for the sub.

I used to chase electrons but was never satisfied with the amount of work put in for the sound quality achieved. So I upgrade.

Most of the budget goes into speakers. I build my own sub box and use efficient amps and a good mixer/EQ.

Great sound at a price I can afford.
 

89Suburban

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OK Big2014Baby here is the solution to your audio issue.

:superhack:


You sound like a person who can follow the instructions and be up and running in about 2-4 hours.

This beats chasing electrons and has RCA outputs to connect to your sub amp.

I put the 2020 version (8 inch screen) in my 2010 Acadia and the 2022 version (10 inch screen) in my 2015 Silverado. No issues with either so far.

The Acadia had the Bose system so I just ran speaker wires from the HU to the speakers. RCA to a powered sub (Acadia was the wife's ride). Took me about 2 hours. Back Up Camera took about another hour.

The Silverado was basically plug and play. Took out the radio and replaced it with the android HU.

Good luck! Take and post pics. Let us know hows it going/goes.

Lots of great info and interesting folks on this forum.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!:thumbsup:
I like the looks of that and the price. Reviews aren’t too hot though. Going by your word looking at this. And no volume knob is a bummer. Can you post a video review or more detailed experiences with pros and cons? I do like the look of it.
 

Rocket Man

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I like the looks of that and the price. Reviews aren’t too hot though. Going by your word looking at this. And no volume knob is a bummer. Can you post a video review or more detailed experiences with pros and cons? I do like the look of it.
I have yet to see an android unit get great reviews, it seems it’s always “ it’s close but needs improvement “. I only see cheap Chinese no-name companies making them too. It seems if android was a good way to go for car stereo the major players like Pioneer and the others would embrace it and offer their versions. You can get “slim” HU’s that don’t have disc players from them though, similar to the android units just not with that OS.
 

Macks2DrTahoe

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89Suburban I'm not big on rite in reviews on stuff but I'll see what I can do.

Rocket Man you are right, Android HUs are close but needs improvement. But they are a pretty go place to start. (In my case, end, since I start my audio systems with the speakers and what will power them (amps). Then all I need is a decent signal from a HU to a good processor (mixer or EQ) to feed the amps.

Remember great audio is what sounds great to you.

Android HUs are like computers (car puters) and have a crap load of features. And a good processor and lots of reliable processing space (RAM and storage) makes a great car audio system at a reasonable price.

With 8 cars and trucks I need a great price.

I'll get off my android soap box and start working on doing some kind of a review
 

89Suburban

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89Suburban I'm not big on rite in reviews on stuff but I'll see what I can do.

Rocket Man you are right, Android HUs are close but needs improvement. But they are a pretty go place to start. (In my case, end, since I start my audio systems with the speakers and what will power them (amps). Then all I need is a decent signal from a HU to a good processor (mixer or EQ) to feed the amps.

Remember great audio is what sounds great to you.

Android HUs are like computers (car puters) and have a crap load of features. And a good processor and lots of reliable processing space (RAM and storage) makes a great car audio system at a reasonable price.

With 8 cars and trucks I need a great price.

I'll get off my android soap box and start working on doing some kind of a review
Thanks dawg.
 
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