Tahoe/Yukon Headlight Information Thread
- Thread starter soulsea
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Here's a fun link I recently ran across: http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/tutorials/ellipticalreflectors/index.html
Not specific to headlamps, but if you toggle the 'light source shift' meter, you can observe how minute differences in the light source positioning inside a reflector affects the overall output once the optimal focal point is lost.
Not specific to headlamps, but if you toggle the 'light source shift' meter, you can observe how minute differences in the light source positioning inside a reflector affects the overall output once the optimal focal point is lost.
He's a member on here who does it in his spare time.
http://tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38270
brbohica
TYF Newbie
does anyone know where you can get a set of housings that have the same led setup like the new audi's?
You won't really find them for our trucks. It's something that would have to be done custom.
Regency
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VIP Customs
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Headlights
Nice info post on the HID's
Nice info post on the HID's
rgncjn
TYF Newbie
After searching this topic endlessly I only have a couple questions that I couldn't seem to find the answers to. I have already spoken to TRS about my retrofit for my 07 Denali and I still have a couple questions I can't find the answers to. So I decided to post them here since this seems to be the most extensive thread on this subject. Here it goes.
Is the additional work to fit the fx-r projector into the housing worth the trouble and time over the H1? (For a 07 Denali nnbs)
The fx-r is a hard mount retro so once you set there is no more adjusting. Is the more flexibility in adjustment with the mini H1 since the bolt to the shroud? Seems like if rotation is of you should be able to turn them to correct it and if the height is off you can use the stock adjustment?
Would running a 55w ballast and bulb in the mini H1 make up for the difference in output from the fx-r?
My biggest concern that I haven't found an answer to is what happens at the back of the headlight housing? It seems like the mini H1 bolts through the original light socket so the headlight is sealed by the bulb socket gasket. However, in the case of the fx-r where you have to cut the shroud do you also have to cut the back of the headlight housing or does the fx-r also fit in the original hole of the bulb socket? Any pictures showing the back of the housing with these two projectors would help out a great bit!
Disabling the DRL, turning off the approach lighting and the automatic lights seems necessary with a retro. Has anyone figured out a way to make the turn signal bulb or fog lights take up the function of the headlight bulb instead of just disabling the functions? Seems like you could figure out what circuit going to the main bulb provides these functions and wire it to the turn signal bulb or fog lights.
Thank you in advance for any help/suggestions. You guys seem to be some of the most knowledgable around when it come to dealing with a retro for these specific vehicles.
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---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ----------
Forget the question about upgrading the mini H1 to the 55w I just read the post above this one in how TRS doesn't offer the 55w setup for that projector. However, would the better bulbs they offer make up some of the difference between the two projectors?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is the additional work to fit the fx-r projector into the housing worth the trouble and time over the H1? (For a 07 Denali nnbs)
The fx-r is a hard mount retro so once you set there is no more adjusting. Is the more flexibility in adjustment with the mini H1 since the bolt to the shroud? Seems like if rotation is of you should be able to turn them to correct it and if the height is off you can use the stock adjustment?
Would running a 55w ballast and bulb in the mini H1 make up for the difference in output from the fx-r?
My biggest concern that I haven't found an answer to is what happens at the back of the headlight housing? It seems like the mini H1 bolts through the original light socket so the headlight is sealed by the bulb socket gasket. However, in the case of the fx-r where you have to cut the shroud do you also have to cut the back of the headlight housing or does the fx-r also fit in the original hole of the bulb socket? Any pictures showing the back of the housing with these two projectors would help out a great bit!
Disabling the DRL, turning off the approach lighting and the automatic lights seems necessary with a retro. Has anyone figured out a way to make the turn signal bulb or fog lights take up the function of the headlight bulb instead of just disabling the functions? Seems like you could figure out what circuit going to the main bulb provides these functions and wire it to the turn signal bulb or fog lights.
Thank you in advance for any help/suggestions. You guys seem to be some of the most knowledgable around when it come to dealing with a retro for these specific vehicles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ----------
Forget the question about upgrading the mini H1 to the 55w I just read the post above this one in how TRS doesn't offer the 55w setup for that projector. However, would the better bulbs they offer make up some of the difference between the two projectors?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
rgncjn
TYF Newbie
double post...
Last edited by a moderator:
04ctd
Full Access Member
this thread really needs a "how to remove the OEM assemblies", or a link to a thread about removing them.
the owners manual says to take it to the dealer.....
http://tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50793&highlight=remove+headlight
1.) Remove the second battery tray. (8 bolts if I recall.)
2.) Remove the top bolt holding the washer fluid reservoir in place. With the top bolt out, you can push it out of the way.
3.) Peel back the rubber flap.
4.) Work your hand behind the bulb assembly, twist to the left and pull. It will pop out.
If you have to do the passenger side, the process is similar, although the air cleaner box must be removed to gain access.
The GM manual suggests removing the front bumper to make this repair, and they also recommend replacing all the bulbs at one time so you don't have to repeat the exercise. At my dealer that would be a $250 bill. I paid $11 for a stock H11 bulb.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470&highlight=headlight
the owners manual says to take it to the dealer.....
http://tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50793&highlight=remove+headlight
1.) Remove the second battery tray. (8 bolts if I recall.)
2.) Remove the top bolt holding the washer fluid reservoir in place. With the top bolt out, you can push it out of the way.
3.) Peel back the rubber flap.
4.) Work your hand behind the bulb assembly, twist to the left and pull. It will pop out.
If you have to do the passenger side, the process is similar, although the air cleaner box must be removed to gain access.
The GM manual suggests removing the front bumper to make this repair, and they also recommend replacing all the bulbs at one time so you don't have to repeat the exercise. At my dealer that would be a $250 bill. I paid $11 for a stock H11 bulb.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470&highlight=headlight
Rockytfox
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04ctd, this post is about replacing the OEM assemblies with retrofit hid assemblies. The above procedure only removes the bulbs...
04ctd
Full Access Member
exactly...how do you get the OEM housing out? to put HID's in?
i basically just wanted a pic of the bolt inside the wheel well,
so I did a whole thread:
http://tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52072
cship
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new to the forums, just picked up my wife a 2012 SLT. Want to have a brighter light look, but not the biggest gear head...Should I do bulbs or HID kits? Any ideas or options or opinions would be great.....
bacin87
Full Access Member
Research
I did some research thank to the User @SOULSEA (I HOPE I SPELLED IT RIGHT), removed the syring and rubberband from my left arm and came down from my HID high. I am going now going to go with 6,000 Highs and 8,000 lows. If I can find a 4300-5000 for my highs I will get that. then go 6000 for my lows. I want to be as close to absoulute white as I can for the highs and I am ok with a lil blue for my lows.
I did some research thank to the User @SOULSEA (I HOPE I SPELLED IT RIGHT), removed the syring and rubberband from my left arm and came down from my HID high. I am going now going to go with 6,000 Highs and 8,000 lows. If I can find a 4300-5000 for my highs I will get that. then go 6000 for my lows. I want to be as close to absoulute white as I can for the highs and I am ok with a lil blue for my lows. 
felixgun
Full Access Member
8K is really really blue. I'd go with 6k at the highest.
bacin87
Full Access Member
I prefer 4300-5000k for my highs and 6000 for my lows.
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