Switching to synthetic at 80,000?

[Bacovish]

But a 2009 tahie with 80,000 miles and don't know the maintenance history of the the vehicle. Thought about switching to mobile1 synthetic but heard that might be a bad idea since it wasn't used from day 1. Any thoughts. Thanks

 

[drakon543]

Switch to a synthetic blend for atleast 2 oil changes before you switch to full synthetic. If your referring to the rumor that going from regular to full synthetic or the other way around can gum up a motor or cause oil leaks. Ive never had either situation happen to my nor do i know anyone that its happened to. However even still if your concerned about it just do a synthetic blend first like i suggested.

 

[Bacovish]

Sorry I wasn't little more clear but yes. People say it will cause oil leaks etc....all I know is my dad has 340,000 on his hoe but he used it from day 1. I was actually thinking the same thing. Might do a blend for a couple of changes. Thanks.

 

[iLikeEggs]

Got my hard-lived SSV with 124k. Switched to Mobil 1 immediately. Only thing better would be Amsoil or Royal Purple. I've used Mobil 1 on every vehicle I've owned. For me it's kind of a comfort thing now. To each his own though. Nothing wrong with non synthetics these days either, just change them more frequently and make sure it meets the specs for your vehicle. The lowest priced off the shelf no name bulk brand today is far superior to the best non synthetic of ten or fifteen years ago.

 

[drakon543]

I switched to using castrol synthetic blend a number of years ago. It's the only oil i use anymore. I used to use whatever oil was cheap at the local parts store until one of the older guys at the shop i worked at convinced me to take one of my valve covers off. Never again will a lesser oil touch my engines.

 

[drakon543]

I switched to using castrol synthetic blend a number of years ago. It's the only oil i use anymore. I used to use whatever oil was cheap at the local parts store until one of the older guys at the shop i worked at convinced me to take one of my valve covers off. Never again will a lesser oil touch my engines.

 

[iLikeEggs]

Lol how true. That conjures up memories. We used to do the same thing. We could always identify the customers that were loyal to (the old) Quaker State oil. We pull a valve cover and show them the sludge build up and then they would switch over to Pennzoil and their bright yell bottles.

 

[Bacovish]

Went ahead last week and made the switch to mobile 1 full synthetic and noticed right away a huge difference. Before on start up the engine had a little noise for few seconds. After it was warm some ticking was present no matter how much I drove it. Not bad and completely normal from my understanding. After the switch even while it sits during the week because I ha e a company vehicle on startup no noise at all. Even the slight tick is gone. Engine sounds so much better. Didnt really think I would notice a difference but I am extremely happy with the switch. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Slow5.0]

I tried switch to full synthetic around 80k and it was using 1qt every 2k. With hi milage regular oil dont need add any oil till oil change at 5k

 

[byrds6]

I bought my 07 with 91K on the clock and changed it to Pennzoil Plat. I have not had an issue so far. It does have some oil loss between oil changes though but from what Ive read its pretty common. Granted I run it til the oil life monitor gets to about 20% too. So I wind up putting about a quart in it. I did install a catch can and it does keep some out of the intake but its not the amount thats lost. Not sure where that is going since it doesnt leak.

 

[mattluttrell]

Switching causes gum or leaks? This sounds silly. I mean one rumor says it creates gunk. The other rumor says it removes gunk.

When I buy a used car I run an oil flush and immediately switch to full synthetic. I've never had an engine burn oil or even leak. (Aside from the common BMW leaks)

Read about the gunk that can clog in the heads causing valve noise. Read about the cam bearing issues. This will make you want to flush and get to a 0W or 5W synthetic ASAP.

The only crime I can see would be not cleaning your engine and running synthetic.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

 

[Slow5.0]

Well some cars like 0W oil like 96 Probe GT that uses HLAS for lifters and reason why there is better oil from from those tiny holes in HLAS. Other example, 94 Mustang GT with 302 and aftermarker roller rockers will make noise on summer on 90f on even brand new RR and boy good luck with 0W or 30W. It will run smooth with 50wt but you have to watch out for winter season if that oil is left in engine and 20f outside temp. Even Optima Red Top will have hard ime starting
Other example is using Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40 on semi truck diesels like Cummins ISX. It will need 1gal every 5k miles after first 10k miles on even on healthy engine
On the other hand using Rotella T5 15W40 on same Cummins ISX engine wont need any oil till 15k

 

[Wake]

Oils are better today than 30 years ago in their cleaning properties. I think that's where the problem originally started when you ran synthetic through a sludged up motor the oil leaks would appear that the sludge used to plug.

I don't think anything of switching a high mile engine to synthetic today. After pulling the top enf off a 120K mile hot running motor (80's emissions) I was a true believer in synthetic oil. Not a bit of sludge in the head pockets or lifter valley. And no oil leaks.