I dropped my 06 Yukon Denali XL with belltech 2/3 drop. The back is at 3" with the spacer in it. I have eibach sway bars that I installed at the same time of the drop. I got the new shorter end links from Tony also. I moved the bracket over 1" on the axle, and I had the sway bar mounting on the right side of the endlinks. My problem is the swaybar hits the passenger side shock and rubs on it. From all the pictures I have looked up on here it seems like no one else has this problem. If I mount the sway bar on the left side of the end links then the sway bar hits the panhard bracket. Not sure what to do but I would like to get a sway bar on the rear of the car instead of driving around without one.
sway bar issues with end links
- Thread starter Kartoon
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NORCAL SS
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this happens with the bends on the eibach bar. is it resting against shock at ride heigt?
Ya, its basically pushed right into it on the passenger side. Also with how short the the endlinks are the sway bar is hitting up against the panhard right behind spare tire also.
Im throwing on the stock sway bar links for now just to see if I can actually get everything bolted up and usable.
Im throwing on the stock sway bar links for now just to see if I can actually get everything bolted up and usable.
NORCAL SS
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shoot me pictures of both endlinks you have on the truck on each side.
I all ready threw the stock endlinks back on. I need to be driving the car so I couldn't leave the sway bar just hanging there.
It doesn't look that bad, its just close to the panhard bracket, haven't driven it yet so Im not sure if its going to hit or not.
It doesn't look that bad, its just close to the panhard bracket, haven't driven it yet so Im not sure if its going to hit or not.
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I'm having the same issue with my 02 burb. It's all djm on my truck. End links and bar. When it's all bolted in it hits the pass shock. Actually had it hooked up wrong before and broke the pass end link because it was hitting the pan hard bracket. So I'm interested in what we find out here. I've already ordered new endlinks but not putting them on untill I find out some more info.
I'm having the same issue with my 02 burb. It's all djm on my truck. End links and bar. When it's all bolted in it hits the pass shock. Actually had it hooked up wrong before and broke the pass end link because it was hitting the pan hard bracket. So I'm interested in what we find out here. I've already ordered new endlinks but not putting them on untill I find out some more info.
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Thats exactly what my sway bar looks like with the endlinks. It is pushed as far over as yours and rubs on the shock.
How much is yours lowered? Mine is only lowered 3" and it seems that they are way too short for a 3" drop, and also seems there is way too much of a bend. Its kind of frustrating that I bought the endlinks because everyone says you need them and then you run in to a situation like this that you cant even use them. Especially in your case when you broke one.
How much is yours lowered? Mine is only lowered 3" and it seems that they are way too short for a 3" drop, and also seems there is way too much of a bend. Its kind of frustrating that I bought the endlinks because everyone says you need them and then you run in to a situation like this that you cant even use them. Especially in your case when you broke one.
mharders
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My stock sway bar is VERY close to the rear passenger shock as well after I installed the DJM endlinks. I'm at a 4" drop with the Belltech Springs. I was told this is very common to be close by Tony but it does seem pretty sketchy.! It's been fine so far but would feel a lot more comfortable with a little bigger spacing between these parts.
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NORCAL SS
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If had more space then would hit panhard bar bracket
ezdaar
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So what causes "sway bar walk"? This isn't the first time I have heard of them hitting shocks.
Anyone think of putting a small spacer between the the shock and mount to move shock towards the tire. I have some room on my truck with the 20" rims. Possibly reverse the bolts so the head is near the tire instead of the point of the bolt. I guess you would have to shift the whole shock extender over unless moving the top over a little would let it clear.
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I think if you moved the shock you would really want to move the top and bottom the same so the shock travel wouldnt be altered by having it a diagonal.
I think the end links are too short. I know they are supposed to be shorter to get the angle of the sway bar back to normal, but to me Id rather have a slightly more angled sway bar that doesnt hit anything, than to have it parallel to the ground and hit my shock.
You should really put a disclaimer on your store about this, especially if you knew that with the eibachs there are issues. I spent $85 for parts I cant use, and since I all ready had the sway bars it would have told me to not bother buying them.
I think the end links are too short. I know they are supposed to be shorter to get the angle of the sway bar back to normal, but to me Id rather have a slightly more angled sway bar that doesnt hit anything, than to have it parallel to the ground and hit my shock.
You should really put a disclaimer on your store about this, especially if you knew that with the eibachs there are issues. I spent $85 for parts I cant use, and since I all ready had the sway bars it would have told me to not bother buying them.
NORCAL SS
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this is why i have my number here 24/7. Im not online all the time. call me
southboundchicken
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Oh boy... I have these end links sitting on the work bench waitng for the rest of my 2/3 drop kit i hope this is not going to be a issue
NORCAL SS
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It should just clear at ride height. I did another over wekeend. Like on my escalade it's very close but doesn't rest on it at ride height
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I know my truck is a NNBS and not a NBS, but same deal here. I'm running a 3/5 drop on my '07 Burb. I'm also running Eibach sways front and rear, along with DJM end links in the rear and a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. My sway bar contacts the panhard bracket, even after moving the driver side sway bar mounting bracket over one inch. I'm going to see if there's anymore room to move it over more because I need to fix the issue of the sway bar hitting the panhard bracket and I have plenty of room before it would contact the right side shock. I could just put the longer stock rear end links back in, but that'll bring the bar angle back down and I want it parallel to the ground like it should be. If I can't move the driver side sway bar mount over towards the passenger side any more than I already have, I might just end up having to modify the DJM end links so they're a bit longer than they are now, but still short enough to keep the bar as close to parallel with ground as possible.
The best solution is to get the sway bar far enough over to the right that it totally clears the panhard bracket. If not, it'll just end up hitting it again once I do the free travel mod and the rear suspension has more upward travel. So I don't think that lengthening the DJM end links would really solve anything now that I think about it. I'll just have to figure out how to move the sway bar over to the right about another 1/2" so its totally clear of that panhard bracket. That's all it would take in my case because its almost clear as it is now, but not enough so its just barely making contact.
The best solution is to get the sway bar far enough over to the right that it totally clears the panhard bracket. If not, it'll just end up hitting it again once I do the free travel mod and the rear suspension has more upward travel. So I don't think that lengthening the DJM end links would really solve anything now that I think about it. I'll just have to figure out how to move the sway bar over to the right about another 1/2" so its totally clear of that panhard bracket. That's all it would take in my case because its almost clear as it is now, but not enough so its just barely making contact.
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NORCAL SS
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there are variances with the panhard bar bracket. on my escalade mine stuck out more so had to tap it in while others ive done cleared fine. Clears shock though
Clean07Burb
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Yeah, well mine must be one of the wider ones. I'll have to take a look and see if the bracket itself can be modified like you say you did to yours. Maybe I can massage the corner of the bracket with a grinder and get the bar to clear. Its really annoying having it hit the bar and I'm sure if left like this it would eventually stress the end link to the point of breakage like the one posted earlier.
