Suspension overhaul recommendations

[Erickk120]

Hey, I'm planning to replace my outer tie rods, stabilizer linkages, balls joints, and shocks, in my Z71.
I was thinking of going with Moog ball joints, but I also caught some Ac delco's that are half the price. The moog ones are roughly 38-40 a pop, while the ac delco ones seem to be around 21 each. What are your experiences with ball joints?

I'm tempted to go with AC delcos as those were the OEM's that I still have in my suv after 221k miles. Should I go with moog and pay almost double, or stick with ac delco? Is there any merit to warrant spending almost 50% more in ball joints or would these be reasonable. I just don't want to end up doing this job twice. What ball joints have you guys used and how have they fared over the years?

 

[Matahoe]

Not much experience in the long term using ACDelco Advantage parts. Considering the amount of work it takes to replace steering components ....and for your safety... I would only consider ACDelco Professional or above grade parts. Moog has a couple lines of parts as well with a similar grading of fair-> better -> best. Moog is ok from my experience. They just seem to use a lot of castle nuts and cotter pins which I try to stay away from. ACDelco Advantage uses them castle nuts as well.

If the nut is overly loose on the threads I usually begin to despise the part. To me it shows a lack of attention to manufacturing detail...an indicator of how long the part will last...its quality. I don't like wasting my money any more than you do. So I am cautious with stuff like that.

Nowadays it's only ACDelco Pro or OEM GM arts for me from the dealer, off eBay, Amazon, etc. Amazon has some Genuine GM parts and I buy a lot there. You need to lookup the part numbers, enter them into Amazon search and boom. I do a lot of searching using the ACDelco parts catalog website for part numbers.

 

[Erickk120]

Not much experience in the long term using ACDelco Advantage parts. Considering the amount of work it takes to replace steering components ....and for your safety... I would only consider ACDelco Professional or above grade parts. Moog has a couple lines of parts as well with a similar grading of fair-> better -> best. Moog is ok from my experience. They just seem to use a lot of castle nuts and cotter pins which I try to stay away from. ACDelco Advantage uses them castle nuts as well.

If the nut is overly loose on the threads I usually begin to despise the part. To me it shows a lack of attention to manufacturing detail...an indicator of how long the part will last...its quality. I don't like wasting my money any more than you do. So I am cautious with stuff like that.

Nowadays it's only ACDelco Pro or OEM GM arts for me from the dealer, off eBay, Amazon, etc. Amazon has some Genuine GM parts and I buy a lot there. You need to lookup the part numbers, enter them into Amazon search and boom. I do a lot of searching using the ACDelco parts catalog website for part numbers.

Awesome, I appreciate your insight! I do agree with all of what you've said, I didn't know that the advantage line was just an entry level "good enough" part. I will either go with mood or the pro AC delco line considering that. Can't believe people install even cheaper ball joints than these, as I've seen random chinese sets of 4 going for 40 dollars, that is something I would never have the balls to do.

 

[Erickk120]

Looks like I will have to say bye to 500 dollars in total, and that is with me doing all the labor. I just went to check, and my idler arms pitman etc.. in there is shot. I will have to add about 125 more to get the tools I will be needing. Literally the previous owner sold me a rolling shop. I've put about 3k+ total into this project, my avatar image is how it looked when I bought it. Hopefully it will drive like a dream once am done with it.

 

[Matahoe]

Yeah I have spent a good bit as well. Can't rightfully say how much I have spent. Has to be right around $3000-$4000. The most expensive items thus far have been the motorized items like fuel pump, alternator, battery, lights steering wheel controls, various sensors, HVAC controls, light bulbs, coils, spark plugs....etc.

Brake, steering, interior/exterior safety items and engine parts are pricey as well. It is usually imperitive that the brake and steering system gets the cash first. You can loose your 4wd, transmission, engine or driveshaft...heck even some wheels. tires. But as long as your steering and brakes still work you can at the very least maneuver around and stop for other vehicles.

 

[MCAT069]

I went with AC delco professional when I did my front end refresh. The cheapest parts were on Amazon.

 

[Erickk120]

I went with AC delco professional when I did my front end refresh. The cheapest parts were on Amazon.

How are those holding so far? Those are the ones I'm planning on getting

 

[RyanJW]

I managed to get under my truck the other day and am in a very similar situation with original OEM shocks (with 215k miles!) that I'm sure have mostly given up.

I want to do a full refresh whilst I'm under there with new bushings, links, shocks and springs. I'm not looking for something super high end as I just do Highway/City mileage with no off road. Any suggestions on a decent kit for the whole lot?

 

[MCAT069]

How are those holding so far? Those are the ones I'm planning on getting

Working great. Have about 6000 miles on them now. I would recommend replacing the bump stops too. I didn't even think about them until after I installed everything else. Ebay was the cheapest I found for oem replacement ones.

 

[Doubeleive]

I never had to change the ball joints on my 00 nbs it rolled over 300k and is still going, had to pretty much change everything else though and I beat the crap out of that thing.

 

[xjsc16x]

I did all the steering parts when I bought my truck. Pitman/idler arms, inner and outer tie rods. Ball joints looked halfway acceptable so left them as is. Took my truck from a mess all over the highway to nice and tight. Cheap alignment means it pulls slightly to the right so I'll have to get another one eventually.

What's everyone's suggestions for shocks? I can foresee needing new ones soon as the New England rust has not been kind to them.

-Justin

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I did all the steering parts when I bought my truck. Pitman/idler arms, inner and outer tie rods. Ball joints looked halfway acceptable so left them as is. Took my truck from a mess all over the highway to nice and tight. Cheap alignment means it pulls slightly to the right so I'll have to get another one eventually.

What's everyone's suggestions for shocks? I can foresee needing new ones soon as the New England rust has not been kind to them.

-Justin

Are you planning on lifting /lowering ?

 

[xjsc16x]

Are you planning on lifting /lowering ?

Possibly. I was thinking about spring spacers in the rear for maybe an inch, or possibly just lift coils if they're cheap enough. And keys to bring the front up to match. Are shock extenders alright to use so I can use a stock size shock? Most cheapo kits come with them.

-Justin

 

[xjsc16x]

Possibly. I was thinking about spring spacers in the rear for maybe an inch, or possibly just lift coils if they're cheap enough. And keys to bring the front up to match. Are shock extenders alright to use so I can use a stock size shock? Most cheapo kits come with them.

-Justin

https://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lift...8751&sr=8-16&keywords=00+chevy+tahoe+lift+kit

^ this is pretty much what I'm looking at. Cheap yet effective.

I could either get that and find some shocks to match, or if I'm feeling blasphemous I could possibly consider a RC 273N2 kit...

 

[HiHoeSilver]

The most popular choice on the forum is Bilstein. 4600 if staying stock or lower. 5100 for stock or higher. The 5100 is adjustable 0-3 (or maybe 2.5)" of lift. It has 3 (I think) perch points to choose from. If you're not already z71, you can put the z71 springs in the rear and get anywhere from 0.5-1.5" of lift just from those. Results vary a bit.

 

[xjsc16x]

The most popular choice on the forum is Bilstein. 4600 if staying stock or lower. 5100 for stock or higher. The 5100 is adjustable 0-3 (or maybe 2.5)" of lift. It has 3 (I think) perch points to choose from. If you're not already z71, you can put the z71 springs in the rear and get anywhere from 0.5-1.5" of lift just from those. Results vary a bit.

It's an LT. Will look at Z71 springs, thanks.

 

[xjsc16x]

It's an LT. Will look at Z71 springs, thanks.

Brand new Bilsteins, Moog Z71 replacement springs, insulators, and a generic 2" torsion key is ~$400 combined. I know what I'm saving for!

On that note, I know for a fact that my camber adjuster plates are rusted clean shut and will need to replace them. Are there any "aftermarket" plates that will give a little more adjustment or are oem-like replacements fine for the amount of lift I'll have?

-Justin

 

[Merc1973]

Brand new Bilsteins, Moog Z71 replacement springs, insulators, and a generic 2" torsion key is ~$400 combined. I know what I'm saving for!

On that note, I know for a fact that my camber adjuster plates are rusted clean shut and will need to replace them. Are there any "aftermarket" plates that will give a little more adjustment or are oem-like replacements fine for the amount of lift I'll have?

-Justin

RockAuto

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Brand new Bilsteins, Moog Z71 replacement springs, insulators, and a generic 2" torsion key is ~$400 combined. I know what I'm saving for!

On that note, I know for a fact that my camber adjuster plates are rusted clean shut and will need to replace them. Are there any "aftermarket" plates that will give a little more adjustment or are oem-like replacements fine for the amount of lift I'll have?

-Justin

@Tonyrodz, is this what you got?

 

[Tonyrodz]

@Tonyrodz, is this what you got?

Yup, got some aftermarket plates. Bought them for my spindles, but went with keys instead. They're still in the bag.