Steering noises, need help diagnosing.

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electro

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'02 Suburban

Lots of front end noise.
I've greased everything.

One noise is the frame poping and snapping when making low speed maneuvers out of driveway. Apparently you can add 8 washers and anit-sieze compound to the front frame cross member. This should allow it to move freely, RedYuk04 completed this with reported success. I need further direction here if you have any input please leave it!

Next issue is difficult steering. Its not as assisted as I would hope for it to be. Do I need to change my steering pump? Or the steering gearbox? Maybe I should flush my fluid? Maybe its a Steering Speed Sensor? I have read about adjusting the steering gearbox? I am trying to familiarize myself with the steering components in hopes of better understanding the system. If anyone has anything info or insight related to the steering system please type away!!



Well that was maybe a bit long but thanks for reading that. My end goal would be a nice strong steering system. Smooth and as easy as possible.

Thanks.
 
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taylorjm

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Well, I can fix your one issue. When you turn your steering wheel all the way to lock, then a little more, you said you get feedback... Well, STOP FORCING YOUR STEERING WHEEL PAST LOCK!! lol, other than that, I can't be much help! Good luck! :)
 

mikewayne

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Its better to take help of a good technicians about working on it and get it done as soon as possible, as having a trouble with something as important as steering may lead to something awful one day.
 
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electro

electro

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Well, I can fix your one issue. When you turn your steering wheel all the way to lock, then a little more, you said you get feedback... Well, STOP FORCING YOUR STEERING WHEEL PAST LOCK!! lol, other than that, I can't be much help! Good luck! :)

Good input, thanks. So you don't know what's making that noise then?
 
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electro

electro

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EVO solenoid. Electronic Variable Orfice noid.

Variable Effort Steering System Description and Operation
The Variable Effort Steering (VES) system controls the amount of steering effort needed to steer the vehicle as vehicle speed and steering wheel position and turning speed changes. The Body Control Module (BCM) or Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) module, vehicles equipped with Real Time Damping (RTD) , controls an Electronic Variable Orifice (EVO) solenoid located in the power steering pump's output fluid orifice. The solenoid consists of a pintle valve which moves in and out of the orifice, regulating power steering fluid flow. The BCM/ESC module varies the amount of steering effort by commanding more or less current to the solenoid. At low speeds, no current is commanded and the pintle is fully retracted which provides maximum fluid flow and maximum steering assist for easy turning and parking maneuvers. At high speeds, more current is commanded to the solenoid and the pintle moves closer to the orifice, decreasing fluid flow, providing firmer steering (road feel) and directional stability. The VES system uses the Steering Wheel Position sensor input to calculate lateral acceleration during abrupt driving maneuvers. The system also uses the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) via a class 2 serial data circuit. The control module is constantly monitoring these inputs to achieve the desired current to the EVO solenoid. The BCM/ESC module has the ability to detect malfunctions within the VES system. Any malfunctions detected will cause the EVO outputs to be disabled. Some VES system malfunctions may cause the SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM warning message to be displayed on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) message center.


So ya! My steering can suck from time to time. Mainly when in out of my driveway or during a three point turn the power steering can sometimes become almost inoperable.

SO that being said...It could be my EVO (electronic variable orfice) solenoid OR it could simply be my power steering pump.

Does anything in my descriptions tell anyone something more specific?

Okay, thanks.
 
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Freedom Motorsports

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FLush your power steering fluid. It and the brake fluid in these trucks break down faster than any other fluid in our trucks and needs to be checked and changed often. If the fluid is discolored at all or has even the slightest burnt smell to it then it needs changed. If your truck has a hydroboost set up, flushing the power steering will also improve pedal feel in the brakes giving you much more braking force with much less pedal actuation.

As for the pump, start the truck and turn the wheel right to left (or have someone do it for you, and then check the fluid, if it is foaming AT ALL, then the pump is on it's way out and could use a change to a new pump.

That is the most common reason for hearing the pump.

As for knocking, it is also very common for the intermittent steering shaft to bump a LOT once the seal inside the shaft fails and loses the factory grease from inside the shaft. They CAN be greased, but GM does not recommend doing so because it is simply a bandaid that delays the inevitable replacement of the shaft. I believe the shaft can be had for less than $100 at most dealerships.
 

03Dnasty

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I always heard the steering popping was caused from the actual steering shaft itself and if you replace it, then that will fix it. I have the same popping noise even cruising around town hitting bumps. Hasn't bothered me enough yet to do anyhting about it though.
 
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electro

electro

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Well, thanks for the advice guys!

I will inspect the fluid and the pump and report back with my observations.

Another thing I think that should be better is the HWY steering. Currently all the vehicles I have recently driven drive better on the highway. I feel like my truck should drive better than them all. My tires are pretty much brand new and perfectly balanced yet my truck seems to wonder too much on the highway. I believe that the steering should be stiffer and hold straighter longer. My previous truck did this with no problem...You could let go of the wheel and it would pretty much hold a highway turn and stay in the lane. That is what I want to get back!!

I guess the bottom line here is if I want that factory steering than just replace everything with new unworn components.

Lets say all my ball joints, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm are nice and tight. That leaves me with; steering gearbox, power steering pump, power steering fluid, and the above mentioned variable orfice pintle valve.

Steering gearbox is about $100 used here.
The pump is going for $80ish used.
Not sure of the prices for the new parts or the variable orfice valve.

I also dont know whether or not I have hydroboost...I'll research and figure out what it is first. I know I have a vacuum line running off my brake booster into the back of the intake manifold.

When I searched for a used steering pump from the wreckers website it asked which option I had. Hydraulic Assist Brake or Vacuum Assist Brake. I clicked Vacuum Assist Brake knowing I have the vacuum line running of the booster.
 
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Freedom Motorsports

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If you have the traditional brake booster with the vacuum line going to the manifold then you do NOT have Hydroboost. The hydroboost unit is normally installed where that brake booster is installed behind the brake master cylinder.

But yeah, inspect and replace where needed. For the road walking on the highway, that would be bad idler and pitman arms OR the gear box. To rule out the idler and pitman arms, lay under the truck while someone else turns the wheel, if there is ANY play up and down at ALL in the idler and pitman arm then they need replaced.

The gear box CAN be adjusted using an adjustment screw on the shaft side of the box. righty tighty lefty loosey and adjust as needed. If the adjusting then doesn't work replace the gear box, but I would leave that for after you have worked on the rest of it as it is less common than the other items.
 

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