Steering issues after 90% rebuild?

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bi-polar1

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looked into the steering wheel position sensor?
my understanding is that it changes/controls pressure that the power steering pump is putting out, variable speed/reactions.
so when that sensor is bad, it will be increasing pressure thereby increasing sensitivity, making the vehicle feel almost
like something is loose in the steering.
 
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KR66

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looked into the steering wheel position sensor?
my understanding is that it changes/controls pressure that the power steering pump is putting out, variable speed/reactions.
so when that sensor is bad, it will be increasing pressure thereby increasing sensitivity, making the vehicle feel almost
like something is loose in the steering.
That’s a possibility or the unit in the pump? The dealer says it shouldn’t cause this but I may try changing it anyway to see if it makes a difference? Or disable it temporarily to see if the steering behaves?
 

mattbta

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That’s a possibility or the unit in the pump? The dealer says it shouldn’t cause this but I may try changing it anyway to see if it makes a difference? Or disable it temporarily to see if the steering behaves?
If you have the sensor, just unplug it and give it a drive for a while. Your cluster will say service stability but it's not unsafe to drive like that. Mike didn't make a difference.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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KR66

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If you have the sensor, just unplug it and give it a drive for a while. Your cluster will say service stability but it's not unsafe to drive like that. Mike didn't make a difference.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I don't know if the cluster will say anything about it? It's. 2001 was it intigated that far into the ODBII in 2001? But yeah I was going to either unplug the valve on the pump or the Sensor on the steering shaft, and see if it helps? The sensor is more for my year than I expected averaging $60 and up for a dorman! I am hunting for a AC Delco sensor because certain parts I don't the stuff made in China
 

ivin74

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Not yet it seems snug and that wouldn't explain the intermittent issue? There are times when it handles normal? I'm starting to think a cracked frame or something that can shift throwing a wrench into how it's supposed to handle! I looked pretty close but have to find a lift to get it in the air to really look closely.



I'm willing to bet is the steering gear. Several years I go my steering felt loose so I changed the gear with a rebuilt from autozone and it did not fix the issue. After reading several threads on other forums I found out that the rebuilts are junk. When they rebuild them they only replace the seals and not the gear 1 out of 100 might get a new gear. I sucked it up and bought an new oem steering gear and bingo the problem was fix. If you do change out the steering gear go with new oem. Good luck
 

JetBlackNali

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Had a similar issue turned out it was the rear control arms mounting points were a tad loose. It would almost steer the truck at speed.
 

BeenChevy

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KR66 - Did you ever figure this one out? My thought is an issue with the steering shaft or the steering box. Let me know your findings when you can.
 
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KR66

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KR66 - Did you ever figure this one out? My thought is an issue with the steering shaft or the steering box. Let me know your findings when you can.
No not yet see my next post it adds to the mystery?
 
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KR66

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KR66 - Did you ever figure this one out? My thought is an issue with the steering shaft or the steering box. Let me know your findings when you can.
No not yet see my next post it adds to the mystery?
 
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KR66

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Now the tires are feathering on the rear axle? The left more then the right? It’s the inside of the tires the left has probably been damaged beyond repair (at least I cannot just run it on another wheel to flatten it out again) and from what I have read this is from bad shocks? But all 4 shocks are new Bilsteins front and back! The rear was bilsteins conversion kit it had new springs to companst for the Nivomatt suspension (self leveling shocks “not air or electric) they have a internal pump that doesn’t need power just the bounce of the suspension) I did away with the OEM Nivomats because the shocks are over $300 Each! The bilstein Kit was around $200 for 2 shocks and 2 Springs.
 
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KR66

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Now the tires are feathering on the rear axle? The left more then the right? It’s the inside of the tires the left has probably been damaged beyond repair (at least I cannot just run it on another wheel to flatten it out again) and from what I have read this is from bad shocks? But all 4 shocks are new Bilsteins front and back! The rear was bilsteins conversion kit it had new springs to companst for the Nivomatt suspension (self leveling shocks “not air or electric) they have a internal pump that doesn’t need power just the bounce of the suspension) I did away with the OEM Nivomats because the shocks are over $300 Each! The bilstein Kit was around $200 for 2 shocks and 2 Springs.

I went on my road trip about 8500 miles round trip in 35 days and when I went to rotate the tires I say the cupping on the rear? So I have to idea what’s wrong unless the frame or a suspension part is tweaked Iot was aligning at a dealership they said the alignment was almost perfect before any adjustments and they didn’t see anything wrong? But it was a Ford dealership maybe they didn’t do something right or understand what to look for on a Yukon I think a Ford Expedition is a lot different underneath than a GM truck, Ford has always tried to be different from my experience driving Medium duty wreckers
Now the tires are feathering on the rear axle? The left more then the right? It’s the inside of the tires the left has probably been damaged beyond repair (at least I cannot just run it on another wheel to flatten it out again) and from what I have read this is from bad shocks? But all 4 shocks are new Bilsteins front and back! The rear was bilsteins conversion kit it had new springs to companst for the Nivomatt suspension (self leveling shocks “not air or electric) they have a internal pump that doesn’t need power just the bounce of the suspension) I did away with the OEM Nivomats because the shocks are over $300 Each! The bilstein Kit was around $200 for 2 shocks and 2 Springs.
 
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KR66

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Finally solved it! Apparently the Ford dealership I took it to for a alignment (didn't have a choice everyone else was booked 2 weeks out) left the upper control arm bolts loose or at least they didn't torque them to the required 140 lbs the vehicle called for! I also had 4 loose ball joints (if it was just one it wouldn't have been a a big issue but all 4 had enough wear that the alignment would not take) I just replaced all 4 control arms (with pre installed ball joints) when I loosened the upper nuts I was able to break them free with one hand! So the control arms were shifting while I was driving they were that loose! It's been a year since Edwards Ford in West Union SC botched the alignment at the cost of unexplained tire wear until I discovered the loose nuts! I'm disabled so checking the balljoints is very dificdiff but the dealership should have never done such a bad job! I parked the Yukon after I replaced the arms (with help I wish I could still do this work on my own) until the GM dealership had time to align the Yukon! Now it's handling like new again! The drivers side tires are so damaged they will never wear even again! I wish I could go after the Ford dealership but it's a long costly process to take them to court I did post a photo of the one side after the alignment

IMG_20190410_145339.jpg
 

cycho

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I run my tires at 45 psi and the Tahoe handles much better. But I still have an issue with rear sway / front over steer.
 

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