Speaker, Sub, Amp, Help!!!

[kwilki21]

I have a 2002 Tahoe Z71 with onstar non-bose and factory sub. When I bought the vehicle I believe only one speaker was working. I ordered an Apline CDE-136BT and 4 Alpine SPS-610's 6.5. I installed all the Alpines in the front and rear doors. I then proceded to install the head unit with the supplied harness from crutchfield. The sound in my car was a million times better then what I had before. Once I raised the sound to my liking I hear a snap crackle and pop from the rear. I soon realized the factory sub was blown to shreds. I did some research and I am on a budget so I ordered the Kicker 10CVT 8-2 Shallow Sub.

Some other expenses have come up and I no longer have the funds to by the 4 Channel Amp I wanted from Alpine (mrp-f300)

I recently pulled out the factory sub box and I am planning on removing the factory subwoofer. I read that you have to do some trimming on the box but the shallow sub will fit snuggly. What I was wondering is if I could run the sub off the factory amp for now, until I can afford the right amp. I know the sound will be nothing to near what it is powered at, but it's better then nothing.

Anyone who has done this before please let me know what I should do or what I need. I really appreciate all your help and thanks for looking

Speaker Specs:

Alpine SPS-610 6.5
6.5" S Type Car Speakers
480 Watt per pair peak power
160 Watts per pair RMS powe

Alpine Headunit CDE-136BT
built-in MOSFET amplifier (18 watts RMS CEA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels

Subwoofer
Kicker Comp VT 10CVT8 8" shallow mount subwoofer
Peak Power: 400 watts
RMS Continuous Power: 200 watts
Shallow-mount subwoofer with true high-performance
New model with new and improved basket structure

 

[magicbus]

I'm not sure if you can or not, but I do know that too little power will kill a sub just as fast as too much power. I say leave the factory sub disconnected until you get the amp. A 200 watt amp should be fairly cheap. I think the last punch 300.1 I bought was about $150 off eBay.

 

[firehill]

I just did this today on my 02 yukon xl today. Same sub you bought! I did replace my head unit a few years ago with a Kenwood, but haven't replaced any of the other speakers. You do have to do some trimming on the box and it still didn't fit perfect but it works, and sounds a whole lot better.

 

[kwilki21]

I just did this today on my 02 yukon xl today. Same sub you bought! I did replace my head unit a few years ago with a Kenwood, but haven't replaced any of the other speakers. You do have to do some trimming on the box and it still didn't fit perfect but it works, and sounds a whole lot better.

You are running it off the factory amp? Or did you install an aftermarket amp?

 

[Tommy 874]

+1 I would like to know that also?

 

[firehill]

You are running it off the factory amp? Or did you install an aftermarket amp?

Factory! Just cut the ends off the existing factory sub wires and attached to the new one. Still need to tweek the audio settings on my Kenwood aftermarket head unit and i also might have a dead speaker in the passanger door as it seems like i hear something weird over on that side.

 

[Tommy 874]

What about the rear pillar speakers? Has anyone replaced those?

 

[kwilki21]

How did you trim the factory box to fit the subwoofer. It almost fits.

 

[kwilki21]

I end up shaving down the factory box with a dremel until it fit and them screwed all six screws in for a real tight fight. I am actually pretty impressed with the sound it is putting out. Nice bass on the inside and you cant hear it outside. I can only imagine how it will sound when I get the amp and possibly update the box.

 

[firehill]

I used a router i had but have never used. Wasnt the cleanest cut but worked. I think the box on my XL is not as deep as the ones on Tahoes as the sub would not go flush even after i trimmed it. I might need to come back at a later day and fill in the gap.

 

[davidbeaver1]

I was thinking about doing the same thing. I have installed a Kenwood HU and new doors speakers, then bypassed the factory amp all together. The HU has more than enough power to run the door speakers as loud as i want them. It would be cool to be able to use the factory amp to power the factory sub just so I don't have to add anything else and clutter up the interior anymore. My truck is a 2001 Non-Bose and the amp is just behind the glove box. I bypassed the amp there by just running wire from the HU and tapping the speakers at the amp. If I could get signal to the amp and use the existing amp and wiring, that would be cool, but I don't see wiring diagrams anywhere for the other wires on the amp, so I'm not sure what to tap into.

 

[AH64Medic]

I just finished replacing all 4 door speakers with some nice Rockford fosgate 6.5s I just wanted to improve the sound which in my opinion sound fantastic. I'm using the factory head unit in mine and then tapped into the rear sub (which was blown) for the LOC to my RF 10"s. I'm not sure if it will help but I used this wiring diagram to find a 12v accessory wire to splice in for the amp remote wire. Hope it helps. crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4158/kw/Suburban