HiHoeSilver
Away!
Why not just an ignition kill switch, seems the wiring would be easier to locate for install.
No reason, really. Just seems to me that the fuel would be harder to defeat.
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Why not just an ignition kill switch, seems the wiring would be easier to locate for install.
Any idea where I can access the pump wires and what color code I'm looking for?No reason, really. Just seems to me that the fuel would be harder to defeat.
Any idea where I can access the pump wires and what color code I'm looking for?
I found the color for the ignition feed to the fp relay. I'll interrupt that in a hidden location, then route wires to a switch in a hidden location. It should work good.I would just trace it from the fuel pump fuse under the hood. I wouldn't interrupt it there, though, too easy for an educated theif.
They have a minimum of 3 vehicles at $16.95/ mo each- ouch.We use something like this for our fleet, but hardwired and has a 48 backup battery
http://www.rhinofleettracking.com
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It's 40,000 units like it. The one we had would track idle time, speed, time doors open, mpg, everything. It was nice. Fire a few people for using the fleet for personal use.They have a minimum of 3 vehicles at $16.95/ mo each- ouch.
But like I said, it's for fleets with a minimum of 3 vehicles and a company name so it's no use for me.It's 40,000 units like it. The one we had would track idle time, speed, time doors open, mpg, everything. It was nice. Fire a few people for using the fleet for personal use.
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that's what I have in mine I think it is around 110db which is almost to the pain thresholdMy cousin has been an installer for years. He always installs a secondary alarm under the dash so that they can't stand to be in the vehicle.
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How would you get in if your battery died?Buy your own sim, preferably T-Mobile if you get decent service in your area. This allows for $9/mo for live tracking.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC0R9OX/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I28X072ZWM01UR&colid=YP4C6SUWAJ2E&psc=1
As far as alarms, you can get away with Scytek 2way with remote start. The unit in my truck is going on 10 years, I've had the same model in other vehicles from 6-9yrs currently. I run a backup battery and an in cabin piezo siren.
As for the doors, I don't use keys to enter. I've also removed the rods attached to the door lock cylinder and I have an external momentary switch wired underneath the floor pan in the rear that unlocks the doors incase I lock myself out.
The alarm also has a digital tilt sensor that is very effective. When I forget my alarm is on and Jack the vehicle up I get no more than 1" off the ground and it goes off.
I also have a glass break sensor added to the alarm in case they decide to break out the rear panel glass on the rear doors as that is a common entry technique too.
So, those are your options. LMK if you need help on anything. I work in public housing admin, I don't mean near it, or down the street, I work at the main admin building in one of the worst areas of town. My truck won't get very far and neither will the assailant if I come out of my office looking for them lol
Well after R&R'ing it a couple times mines getting bad so I'll take that, PM sent.Sorry I can't offer any suggestions, but I'm happy those lowlife scumbags didn't get her. If you need the column cover plastics, I got one for ya. Just get the shipping. Sorry again Red.
Well after R&R'ing it a couple times mines getting bad so I'll take that, PM sent.

This past fall when I killed the battery when messing with the Passlock issue my car alarm still functioned off the reserve backup battery. In fact it was operable a week after sitting there with a dead battery.How would you get in if your battery died?