*Solved* Intake Air Temperature Sensor

[Doubeleive]

@Doubeleive

Just watched the video - I am getting the same readings. Gonna try and replace the MAP tonight if I can reach it. Funny thing - that guy is located in Jersey so I just reached out to him to see if he is available and his rate. Hopefully he responds.

ya, I don't know where the map sensor would be on a whipple, on the regular intake it's super easy. i had 2 of the codes he had in the title and just replaced the map sensor and then monitored it while driving around and everything seems ok, I did also zip tie the maf harness up to the coolant reservoir lines, it's been dangling and bouncing up and down going down the road eventually those wires will break over time, like bending a soda can enough times it just breaks apart.

 

[fozzi58]

MAP sensor on the whipple is located at the back of the lower intake manifold. Absolute b@tch to get to but I managed to get it off.

Followed this video:

Unfortunately for me, my gen 3 Whipple uses a 4 bar MAP sensor like the ZL1 so the MAP sensor I purchased is useless. So I am on the hunt for the right part tomorrow. At least have the old one in hand with the part number on it.

 

[Doubeleive]

MAP sensor on the whipple is located at the back of the lower intake manifold. Absolute b@tch to get to but I managed to get it off.

Followed this video:

Unfortunately for me, my gen 3 Whipple uses a 4 bar MAP sensor like the ZL1 so the MAP sensor I purchased is useless. So I am on the hunt for the right part tomorrow. At least have the old one in hand with the part number on it.

looks about as fun as doing the oil pressure sensor

 

[Doubeleive]

MAP sensor on the whipple is located at the back of the lower intake manifold. Absolute b@tch to get to but I managed to get it off.

Followed this video:

Unfortunately for me, my gen 3 Whipple uses a 4 bar MAP sensor like the ZL1 so the MAP sensor I purchased is useless. So I am on the hunt for the right part tomorrow. At least have the old one in hand with the part number on it.

I read that they can get dirty and malfunction, you could try some maf cleaner or crc electronics cleaner in the meantime if you have to wait for the part. I didn't even test mine I just went and grabbed one at the store down the street. I am at sea level and mine reads a baro of 30hg (key on engine off), map readings will be lower with engine running than the elevation reading due to vacuum
if the maf & map are off by more than 10 kpa? that's what causes the errors/problems. It determines that there is unmetered air happening somewhere, intake leak, vacuum leak etc
that's my understanding of it anyway, if it's not a sensor or a wire then it sounds like no fun

 

[fozzi58]

New MAP installed - all codes but 2 gone - P2227 and P2228. Both of those lead back to MAF or MAP. Could be a bad sensor. Don't know.

I cleaned the connectors with Deoxit and used some dielectric great on them after cleaning. Cleared codes and they came right back. Spent the better part of 6 hours on HPTuners forums, Whipple tech support etc. and I got no where.

The MAP part number was superseded by another new part from GM. Its basically the same 3 bar MAP sensor thats used in the ZL1, Z06 and some 2.0 turbos. I have no idea if the tune doesnt understand the new MAP cause there's an update to the sensor or not - i would think not, but I'm not smart enough to know that - hence the HPTuners forum doom scrolling.

At this point I'm pretty deflated. My Lime Rock weekend is over before it began and I'm at a loss so I guess its time to find a good tuner in the area and pay the piper.

 

[Doubeleive]

New MAP installed - all codes but 2 gone - P2227 and P2228. Both of those lead back to MAF or MAP. Could be a bad sensor. Don't know.

I cleaned the connectors with Deoxit and used some dielectric great on them after cleaning. Cleared codes and they came right back. Spent the better part of 6 hours on HPTuners forums, Whipple tech support etc. and I got no where.

The MAP part number was superseded by another new part from GM. Its basically the same 3 bar MAP sensor thats used in the ZL1, Z06 and some 2.0 turbos. I have no idea if the tune doesnt understand the new MAP cause there's an update to the sensor or not - i would think not, but I'm not smart enough to know that - hence the HPTuners forum doom scrolling.

At this point I'm pretty deflated. My Lime Rock weekend is over before it began and I'm at a loss so I guess its time to find a good tuner in the area and pay the piper.

I had 2x P2227, 2x p00c7 and the new map sensor seems to have resolved it.
If it were me I would probably gamble on a new maf unless it takes something crazy priced in the case of the supercharger
both of those p2227 & p2228 codes can be map or maf if the map sensor didn't fix it then the maf would be my next suspect.
i know it sucks to throw parts at something, it also sucks to take it to a shop and pay them to tell you it was the maf
either that or hook a scanner to it and see what the live data shows and try to decipher that....

question-when you say they came right back, do they say permanent? if so that means you have to drive cycle it until it passes self test's then it will go away.

 

[fozzi58]

question-when you say they came right back, do they say permanent? if so that means you have to drive cycle it until it passes self test's then it will go away.

 

[fozzi58]

Someone replied to me on HPTuners forum:

"Both of those codes are actually for the barometric pressure sensor. The barometric pressure sensor is in the MAF sensor unless for whatever reason you have a breakout harness. The 2227 can be a calibration issue as in the code can either be turned off to ignore it or the distance from the map reading needs to be changed. The 2228 code is a low voltage code - usually a short to ground as it is a less than .5 volts being "seen" by the ecm fault code. A data log with baro, map and maf in it would be helpful. The tune file would help too. Actual data will show what the ecm is seeing. Your map sensors are both lt4 map sensors, so I don't see an issue with that. If the ecm is seeing low voltage from the baro, it's very possibly a bad pin at the ecm, a bad wire or a bad ecm. I had a guy once get the pins for the sciap messed up and cause the baro voltage to be 0 volts."

I will have to take the truck for a drive and see if anything changes. I don't have a break-out harness as mentioned above. Will repost if I get any different results.

 

[Doubeleive]

View attachment 485264

ya that means let it sit overnight or at least all day, then when you do drive it, go drive at 55 for several miles, then slow down and pull over, DO NOT SHUT it off, just let it idle a minute or two, then shift it thru the gears while stopped and then go drive around 30-35mph for a few miles, then let it idle for a few minutes before shutting it off.
repeat after it has sat again all day or overnight.
after the 2nd time those permanent codes should be gone. the Evap may not be completed but everything else should be.
should look like this, if the permanent codes are not gone after the 2nd completed drive cycle then there may still be a problem, but mine went away after the 2nd cycle

 

[fozzi58]

OK I went out for a ride and pretty much followed your suggestion to the letter. Attached are the DTCs before my ride. I grabbed screen shots from my ODBLink MX+ before I pulled out of the drive way. Before the drive I swapped out my ODBMX+ for HPTuners. Someone on that forum wanted me to do some data logging so hopefully with 2 attack points I can resolve this.

The truck will sit overnight, might take it to work tomorrow since it seems to be running fine even with the SES light on. Fingers crossed.

 

[fozzi58]

Codes cleared. Don't know why. Maybe cause I let it rest over the weekend? I dunno.

I checked ODB DTCs on Friday (05/15) and P2227/8 were still showing permanent even after clearing....after multiple drive cycles. Someone I spoke with stated there could be a vacuum leak somewhere. SO I decided to dismantle the entire intake tract once again.

Checked the air tuve, unplugged MAF, cleaned air box\filter again, reseated MAF, made sure the little gasket on the new MAF as seating properly, redid the hose clamps on the intake, made sure the PCV tubed were seated properly etc. Hooked up ODB and cleared codes. Codes not showing permanent any longer. Took her for a drive last night. No codes. Came to work this morning - no codes. Nothing pending. unreal. Maybe it needed more than 2 drive cycles? Maybe the rest over the weekend?

I'm at a loss. As long as it stays this way, I will be happy. I already missed out on Lime Rock and I have 3 more major events I don't want to miss out on.

 

[Doubeleive]

Codes cleared. Don't know why. Maybe cause I let it rest over the weekend? I dunno.

I checked ODB DTCs on Friday (05/15) and P2227/8 were still showing permanent even after clearing....after multiple drive cycles. Someone I spoke with stated there could be a vacuum leak somewhere. SO I decided to dismantle the entire intake tract once again.

Checked the air tuve, unplugged MAF, cleaned air box\filter again, reseated MAF, made sure the little gasket on the new MAF as seating properly, redid the hose clamps on the intake, made sure the PCV tubed were seated properly etc. Hooked up ODB and cleared codes. Codes not showing permanent any longer. Took her for a drive last night. No codes. Came to work this morning - no codes. Nothing pending. unreal. Maybe it needed more than 2 drive cycles? Maybe the rest over the weekend?

I'm at a loss. As long as it stays this way, I will be happy. I already missed out on Lime Rock and I have 3 more major events I don't want to miss out on.

could have just needed more drive cycles, or maybe it was something you did. Hard to say for sure. As long as it stays gone.....
that drive cycle I noted is not precise, it's a partial note of the "official" one.
but the general rule of thumb is drive it 50 miles at 55mph, that's what the techs will tell you here if you need to pass smog and it is not ready.
I have found it to be the case in the past where I went in the morning to go get a smog, told it was not ready, then went and drove it 50 miles at 55mph
25 miles one way and 25 miles back to the smog place and it's ready to smog here you are allowed 1 sensor not ready which is almost always the evap since it is always the last to set. Mine finally fully cleared at some point since I posted the last photo. The evap usually takes at minimum 3 full drive cycles to set, that includes the ambient temperature being just right and gas tank being "I think" between 1/4~3/4 full something to that affect.