Remote Start Troubleshooting - SOLVED

[DaveO9]

Hello all,

My remote start is not working. I've gone through the usual and obvious items that one can find on generic and GM sites. I have two remotes, both work normally except neither does remote start. No CEL. I've done diagnostics with my Tech 2 and I have just three codes: 1) radio not communicating (I have an aftermarket, and I'm pretty sure remote start still worked AFTER install) 2 and 3) B2555 - Passenger Compartment Lamp Control, Circuit Short to Battery (one for both front doors). There's a TSB about B2555 that indicates this code is normal for my LT that does not have courtesy lights in the doors. And this code has been present since I've had the Tahoe and remote start only recently stopped working.

Another important item for the diagnostic: I can tell the sequence is starting and then gets interrupted by something. Parking lights come as they should when remote starting, in the engine bay I can hear a relay or two click and an actuator or servo operating, and then nothing. If this was something like a faulty door lock, I don't believe that sequence would even start. It doesn't if you don't hit the lock button on the remote before trying.

What are my next steps? I have a Tech 2, but I'm inexperienced with it's use and don't know much other than checking codes so far. I know remote start needs to see 0% on TPS - check that?

 

[Chevymec]

I would go into the remote control door lock receiver module and see if you can look at the remote functions and see if it will register the press of all buttons. I would also clear the codes and see if that makes a difference.

 

[DaveO9]

I would go into the remote control door lock receiver module and see if you can look at the remote functions and see if it will register the press of all buttons. I would also clear the codes and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks, I will do those things. I’m pretty sure I have tried clearing the codes, but will try again. It is registering the push of the remote start - the parking lights come on and relays click in the engine bay.

 

[petethepug]

2013 Tahoe LT. The tech2 will let you know why the remote start won’t work.

Mine was stolen so I don’t have the path to verify if it will also trigger the remote start and diagnose it. Ensure all the DTC are cleared or the R/S won’t work.

 

[DaveO9]

2013 Tahoe LT. The tech2 will let you know why the remote start won’t work.

Mine was stolen so I don’t have the path to verify if it will also trigger the remote start and diagnose it. Ensure all the DTC are cleared or the R/S won’t work.

Thanks, I'm just not seeing where the Tech2 will diagnose the remote start. It's not showing up in the list when I do diagnostics on BCM, chassis, or drivetrain. And I'm not seeing it in the list of modules in that menu.

I have cleared all DTCs and it still won't remote start.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks, I'm just not seeing where the Tech2 will diagnose the remote start. It's not showing up in the list when I do diagnostics on BCM, chassis, or drivetrain. And I'm not seeing it in the list of modules in that menu.

I have cleared all DTCs and it still won't remote start.

Anyone have any ideas?

I would try a little more hands on with the tech2, practice using it for various functions just to get a better handle on how it functions.
one thing you might look at is once you have attempted a auto-start, doing it properly, 2 quick lock button presses and then press and hold autostart.
at that point when it has "tried" to autostart look at the security function with the tech2 and see if it shows security enabled or not. If so that is what is causing it to not work.
other things to check are the brakes i.e. brake lights, brake switch, cruise control, hood open switch, door open/closed switches. any of those could cause the auto start to not operate
doesn't have to just be a cel
if you have installed led brake lights, take them out and try regular bulbs.
also look behind the kick panel under the steering wheel, you can either get upside down and look up in there with a flashlight or take the kick panel off (easY) and see if there is any kind of 3rd party alarm or any modules wired up there that are not stock, if you are not sure take some pictures of that area and post them up here.

 

[petethepug]

The tech 2 will remote start the vehicle. If it won’t start then step back and google some questions for a while.

Odd things like the back lift gate glass not registering as closed or that aftermarket radio is causing a problem when it initially wasn’t.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks, I'm just not seeing where the Tech2 will diagnose the remote start. It's not showing up in the list when I do diagnostics on BCM, chassis, or drivetrain. And I'm not seeing it in the list of modules in that menu.

I have cleared all DTCs and it still won't remote start.

Anyone have any ideas?

In the main Body Control Module you want to go to the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver section.

Any pending trouble codes? Do the lights flash when you try remote start?

 

[DaveO9]

I would try a little more hands on with the tech2, practice using it for various functions just to get a better handle on how it functions.
one thing you might look at is once you have attempted a auto-start, doing it properly, 2 quick lock button presses and then press and hold autostart.
at that point when it has "tried" to autostart look at the security function with the tech2 and see if it shows security enabled or not. If so that is what is causing it to not work.
other things to check are the brakes i.e. brake lights, brake switch, cruise control, hood open switch, door open/closed switches. any of those could cause the auto start to not operate
doesn't have to just be a cel
if you have installed led brake lights, take them out and try regular bulbs.
also look behind the kick panel under the steering wheel, you can either get upside down and look up in there with a flashlight or take the kick panel off (easY) and see if there is any kind of 3rd party alarm or any modules wired up there that are not stock, if you are not sure take some pictures of that area and post them up here.

Good input - I did play around with the Tech 2 quite a bit more in the last few days and found some of the menus and commands you guys mention. I tried the test you mentioned, after trying the remote start, I checked the Theft menu and everything looked good there, no triggers. I could post the data screen if useful.

I did notice tonight I am getting an "ECM - Crank Abort: True" message on the remote start screen. There's also a screen for RVS Disable History with seven different failure logs posted. All of them have the ECM crank abort message as true. I am not seeing any information anywhere about WHY the ECM is aborting cranking, however.
No aftermarket alarms or modules, no LED brake lights or anything like that.

The tech 2 will remote start the vehicle. If it won’t start then step back and google some questions for a while.

Odd things like the back lift gate glass not registering as closed or that aftermarket radio is causing a problem when it initially wasn’t.

I found where I can watch the button pushes from the fobs, and can attempt a remote start that way, but I still haven't found a way to directly do a remote start from the Tech 2. But I'm starting to wonder if it is the aftermarket radio.

In the main Body Control Module you want to go to the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver section.

Any pending trouble codes? Do the lights flash when you try remote start?

Thanks - went there and found where I could test all buttons on both my fobs. They all registered with the correct function when pushed, including the remote start ones.
The only pending code is the "Lost Comm with Radio" one that is due to my aftermarket (Apple Car Play) radio. I guess it's possible that that is what is preventing remote start, but I'm almost sure (not 100%) I used RS after installing the new radio.

Thanks for everyone's help. If anyone has any ideas of other stuff to check, let me know, but I'm not pulling my hair out for this (not that there's a lot left to pull out anyway) It's definitely nice to have sometimes, but I won't die without it. I just like to have all my bells and whistles ringing and whistling.

 

[Doubeleive]

Good input - I did play around with the Tech 2 quite a bit more in the last few days and found some of the menus and commands you guys mention. I tried the test you mentioned, after trying the remote start, I checked the Theft menu and everything looked good there, no triggers. I could post the data screen if useful.

I did notice tonight I am getting an "ECM - Crank Abort: True" message on the remote start screen. There's also a screen for RVS Disable History with seven different failure logs posted. All of them have the ECM crank abort message as true. I am not seeing any information anywhere about WHY the ECM is aborting cranking, however.
No aftermarket alarms or modules, no LED brake lights or anything like that.

I found where I can watch the button pushes from the fobs, and can attempt a remote start that way, but I still haven't found a way to directly do a remote start from the Tech 2. But I'm starting to wonder if it is the aftermarket radio.

Thanks - went there and found where I could test all buttons on both my fobs. They all registered with the correct function when pushed, including the remote start ones.
The only pending code is the "Lost Comm with Radio" one that is due to my aftermarket (Apple Car Play) radio. I guess it's possible that that is what is preventing remote start, but I'm almost sure (not 100%) I used RS after installing the new radio.

Thanks for everyone's help. If anyone has any ideas of other stuff to check, let me know, but I'm not pulling my hair out for this (not that there's a lot left to pull out anyway) It's definitely nice to have sometimes, but I won't die without it. I just like to have all my bells and whistles ringing and whistling.

It's not the radio or shouldn't be I have the same code and mine will autostart.
You should see a option in the tech2 to scan all modules, try that and see if anything rears it's head

 

[Doubeleive]

Some things that can cause a ecm crank abort
Software bug
Hardware fault
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Other sensors
Immobilizer malfunction (security)

Something I would try, attempt autostart with key in ignition (ignition off) then maybe with key in run position (if it will allow it)
My theory behind that would be maybe a security issue but if the key chip is present and readable maybe it will work, just spitballing

 

[Doubeleive]

Also if you sit in the vehicle and try to autostart it do any lights come up on the cluster after it fails?

 

[DaveO9]

Some things that can cause a ecm crank abort
Software bug
Hardware fault
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Other sensors
Immobilizer malfunction (security)

Something I would try, attempt autostart with key in ignition (ignition off) then maybe with key in run position (if it will allow it)
My theory behind that would be maybe a security issue but if the key chip is present and readable maybe it will work, just spitballing

Thanks much. I thought of something…. Could a changed transfer case module be causing the abort? I converted from single speed to 2-speed t-case which of course involved a module change. I didn’t reprogram the module to the VIN - I didn’t learn how to do that since everything seemed to work fine without doing so. But maybe I need to figure out how to do that? In thinking about it, it does seem like the conversion coincides with the remote start issue, time-wise.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks much. I thought of something…. Could a changed transfer case module be causing the abort? I converted from single speed to 2-speed t-case which of course involved a module change. I didn’t reprogram the module to the VIN - I didn’t learn how to do that since everything seemed to work fine without doing so. But maybe I need to figure out how to do that? In thinking about it, it does seem like the conversion coincides with the remote start issue, time-wise.

We should ask Charles about that one, he's the only one off the top of my head that has done the transfer case swap. Think his transmission just went out.

Dave, when you hit the remote start button on your remote after locking the door twice, do the headlights or parking lights flash?

 

[DaveO9]

Also if you sit in the vehicle and try to autostart it do any lights come up on the cluster after it fails?

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

We should ask Charles about that one, he's the only one off the top of my head that has done the transfer case swap. Think his transmission just went out.

Dave, when you hit the remote start button on your remote after locking the door twice, do the headlights or parking lights flash?

Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

 

[Doubeleive]

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

It might as hitting the brake pedal shuts auto start off unless the key is in and in the run position first.. but I am not sure what that reading you are seeing is at "normally" mine is in the shop till probably Wednesday so maybe someone else can check there's in the meantime @swathdiver
Also maybe James can check if there is a autostart diagnostic tree?

 

[swathdiver]

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

I can picture his avatar but cannot remember his screen name, my memory has not been good lately. He's a fairly regular contributor who used to live near me and now lives out west spending lots of time overlanding. I can remember all that but not his name!

If the lights flash, that is because some code has been thrown that will not allow remote start to work. Have you done a full scan for DTCs from all modules off the main page?

The pedal and such has a range that it operates within. Outside that range a DTC is thrown which could turn off remote start. Even an emissions code will disable it.

 

[DaveO9]

I can picture his avatar but cannot remember his screen name, my memory has not been good lately. He's a fairly regular contributor who used to live near me and now lives out west spending lots of time overlanding. I can remember all that but not his name!

If the lights flash, that is because some code has been thrown that will not allow remote start to work. Have you done a full scan for DTCs from all modules off the main page?

The pedal and such has a range that it operates within. Outside that range a DTC is thrown which could turn off remote start. Even an emissions code will disable it.

Ah yes, I think his screen name is Tozan!

@Tozan, when you did your t-case conversion, did you end up reprogramming your new TCCM to the VIN? IIRC, you did not, since it's not needed for it to work properly. I have since done the same conversion. Everything works great, except now my remote start does not work and I'm wondering if it is due to the the fact that the TCCM does not match the VIN.

James - I have just two codes that consistently recur: 1) I have an aftermarket radio so there is no communication with that and 2) there is a code related to the in-door courtesy lights that my LT does not have. I believe there is a TSB that says the code is normal and to ignore it. I have cleared all codes and immediately tried the remote start to no avail.

Regarding the brake pedal - I rechecked this tonight with the Tech 2, and I don't think it's the issue. Ignition on, engine off, no pressure on brake pedal I get 208 Counts on the BPP Sensor, with 212 Counts as the "BPPS Learned Home Position." So, calculated brake pedal is actually negative at -4. I think this tells me that the system does NOT think someone is pressing the brake pedal.

 

[Tozan]

I acquired the transfer case and TCCM from the same vehicle and installed them and a new switch in the dash. I did not program anything. It was a simple plug and play with no problems.

 

[petethepug]

Did you ever check if your rear defroster is working and the rear glass is 150% shut?

Any trace of an open door, hood, lift gate or hatch glass will abort the start sequence.