Rear Blower Not Working

[S33k3r]

I have a new-to-me 2005 Suburban 1500 LT with 165k on it, and I am slowly restoring it. So far I have corrected windows off track, a bad headlight switch, "service 4wd", and a bad remote key fob. I still have a ways to go -- the transmission is throwing solenoid codes, for example -- but I am waiting on a scan tool before I can do much more. That said, I have an issue I want to mess with before I get the scan tool, and am wondering if this is a parts cannon thing or not (without the tool):

The rear blower does not cut on at all. A little bit of Googling gets me that it is likely the blower resistor in the back. Is there anything else I should look at and, if so, what is the best way to test without a scan tool? I have a rudimentary understanding of electrical circuits, but suck at reading electrical diagrams; that said, I am willing to learn whatever is necessary -- can someone just point me in the correct direction, please?

At this point, I do not mind taking a gamble on the resistor motor, but I figured I'd ask here first.

I do have a nice meter that y'all helped me pick out, and I tested all my fuses (which were all good). I have not hit the grounds yet, but they are on my list -- especially the one under the driver's door sill. But I'm still looking for a shop jack (I hate pulling out the portable jack and then repacking it, LOL).

Thanks for any help!

Will

 

[Doubeleive]

if you have voltage going into the resistor module, and no voltage or very low voltage coming out, that's your culprit (could also be low amps)
you can also verify the rear blower motor is working by applying 12v to the motor

 

[S33k3r]

Thanks for the education -- and not calling me stupid.

 

[MassHoe04]

I haven't been a member very long, but from experience so far... Folks on the Tahoe Yukon Forum are a decent group of people seriously looking to help.
If everyone knew everything, there would be no need for a forum to exist. Even resident experts started from a point of inexperience at some point in their lives. Learning is an ongoing process for all of us. I know a fair amount of basic mechanical stuff, but electronics? That is my weak point.

I am just glad that my 04 Tahoe is still one of the easier vehicles to work on and parts are readily available (and mostly cheaper than other vehicles out there)! Still a mostly DIY truck. I need that, because I can't afford to have a shop do everything all the time.

There should be enough help here to get your problem sorted out. Good luck!

 

[S33k3r]

Oh, definitely! This is actually one of the nicest forums on the web. But I was having a bad day, knew it was a stupid question, and STILL couldn't answer it my self. I wanted to say thanks for the advice, and appreciation for answering my stupid question.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

***holes are not welcome on this Forum, and they do not last very long here. We have no tolerance and no time for them. If one member here calls another member stupid, I can assure you that it is fully in jest.

And, there are no stupid questions. The closest to a stupid question is a question that is not asked.

 

[movado750]

Fuse

 

[S33k3r]

Fuse

Care to elaborate? I checked every fuse on the driver's side, inside the Suburban, and all of them in the underwood block. Is there one somewhere I missed? I even tried the passenger side, but there were no fuses there. Thanks!

 

[Doubeleive]

Care to elaborate? I checked every fuse on the driver's side, inside the Suburban, and all of them in the underwood block. Is there one somewhere I missed? I even tried the passenger side, but there were no fuses there. Thanks!

you can check all the fuses, however if a fuse blew there is usually a reason why, occasionally a fuse may just give up the ghost for no apparent reason, but I would get back there and pull the paneling off and start checking things with a volt meter without a tool like a tech2 you kind of have to do most things hands on and even the tech2 can only get you so far. there are a ton of youtube video's showing how to get the panels off it only takes about 5 minutes or less to get access to the rear hvac system.

 

[MassHoe04]

Oh, definitely! This is actually one of the nicest forums on the web. But I was having a bad day, knew it was a stupid question, and STILL couldn't answer it my self. I wanted to say thanks for the advice, and appreciation for answering my stupid question.

I have been really impressed with the professionalism and decency of Tahoe Yukon members!
Wrangler Forum was mostly nice folks, but there were a couple that could not post anything without being negative, flaming other users for being wrong or just having an opinion. Sometimes, flat-out name calling.

Joseph Garcia is right about there being no stupid questions and I think we have all been in the exact same situation.

As you can see, nobody has given up on trying to help you solve your problem. That is a good sign! Hopefully, there will be a breakthrough soon, without having to go to a garage for repairs.

 

[S33k3r]

you can check all the fuses, however if a fuse blew there is usually a reason why, occasionally a fuse may just give up the ghost for no apparent reason, but I would get back there and pull the paneling off and start checking things with a volt meter without a tool like a tech2 you kind of have to do most things hands on and even the tech2 can only get you so far. there are a ton of youtube video's showing how to get the panels off it only takes about 5 minutes or less to get access to the rear hvac system.

I checked each of the fuses with a multimeter. Not an expert on the multimeter, mind you, but I checked resistance and each fuse had continuity. I am paused at the moment because 1) My Tech2 won't get here until next week and 2) I have to replace the shocks on the hatch so I don't get smushed. Thank you so much for the help, and I'll report back with what I find.

Also, it looks like I am about to get an '04 parts Suburban. It was parked because it wouldn't start, then sat for 3 years. Not sure how I'm going to attack that one, though I am probably gonna grab ammo for theparts cannon and then flip the remains. Thank you all, so much, again!

 

[Doubeleive]

I checked each of the fuses with a multimeter. Not an expert on the multimeter, mind you, but I checked resistance and each fuse had continuity. I am paused at the moment because 1) My Tech2 won't get here until next week and 2) I have to replace the shocks on the hatch so I don't get smushed. Thank you so much for the help, and I'll report back with what I find.

Also, it looks like I am about to get an '04 parts Suburban. It was parked because it wouldn't start, then sat for 3 years. Not sure how I'm going to attack that one, though I am probably gonna grab ammo for theparts cannon and then flip the remains. Thank you all, so much, again!

hmm, no start could be a easy fix and flip the whole thing.

 

[rdhogg]

2013 Tahoe rear A/C Heater blower motor not working, update. Mine was not a fuse issue, everything seemed to be working but no air was coming out of the rear vents. I did a couple of videos on the problem that I was having , pretty basic trouble shooting and far from professional video, but it might be helpful for someone. ( Click on the links to open)​

Part one of Rear AC blower motor​

Part two of Rear AC blower motor

 

[S33k3r]

hmm, no start could be a easy fix and flip the whole thing.

For what it is worth, my issue was due to a wire that had been worn through between the controls and the the rear blower motor. Ultimately, I had a second, 2005 Suburban I used to test parts, one at a time. When I narrowed it down to the wiring, I paid my mechanic to fix it. Not interested in learning how to chase down wiring continuity; I seriously already knowhow, and I thank God I can afford to have someone else do it. On the flip side, yes, I know that this wiring job would have been easy, but I didn't realize it at the time.

The 2004 Suburban 2500 that doesn't start is due to vandalism and the theft of various parts. I haven't even started looking into that yet.