Rattle/grinding noise at 25-35 mph, mechanic told me AFM and lifters need to be changed.

[iboughtatahoe23]

And I wish I could just not drive it but it’s my only car and my job is 3 miles away from my place.

 

[Trey Hardy]

2014 Tahoe 167k miles.

I’ve posted one thread about this recently that seems to have gone dead. So I’m making a new one.

Noise I’m having will usually happen from 25-35, mph when i accelerate around those speeds lightly. It seems to only happen in v4 mode and then when it “jerks” into v8 mode the rattle goes away. It’s a very audible rattle/scrape like dragging solid metal behind you. People look at me when driving down Main Street.

8/15/23:
Went to the shop again and took a ride. The mechanic told me i most likely will need lifters changed and it’s gonna run about $2500 or more.

On the other hand: My dad told me I should run 15w40 Rotella and I should be able to get another 150 K out of it but I think he’s blowing smoke just a little bit haha.


Wht you guys think? I’m kind of nervous to just take out a loan and throw money at some thing. But I’m pretty sure if it only happens when switching out of v4 and going into full V8 then I’m almost 90% sure it’s AFM related.

I have prolonged my afm lifters by swapping to 10w40 Mobil one with a quart or marvel mystery oil
Along with disabling my flex fuel with a custom tune but you can also get a afm disabler that plugs into your obd2

I had a lifter stick on me twice now and both times I got it broke loose with the marvel mystery oil and driving it like I stole it. Try this at your own Risk but I’m almost 2 years into it with no issues what so ever
Just step up a weight in oil as the mmo thins the oil

 

[the 18th letter]

And I wish I could just not drive it but it’s my only car and my job is 3 miles away from my place.

I'd probobly never drive to work if I lived 3 miles from my job. Everyone's situation is different which I can respect. Buy the lower cost disabler and start trying to get a repair savings fund going.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I’m a bit confused because a lot of people recommend the plug in Disablers and they work fine they say.


But if my problem is worse , like an already failed lifter I could see why it wouldn’t work really. It might stop my noise and stop further damage?

Or I can do that Texas speed AFM delete kit or WhatVer with the new lifters

In many cases, web-based diagnosis from well-meaning members will only get you so far and eventually it comes to a point where you need a full, hands-on diagnostic work up from a competent shop/service center who will spell out the problems as well as cost to cure in writing.

You can try any of the suggestions above however I'll echo @wjburken and recommend you obtain a complete diagnosis so you can determine what it's going to cost to fix. This way, you can take next steps with financing and logistical arrangements confident you have a complete, accurate picture of the situation and fix it once and for all the right way.

I'd rather deal with a potential $2500-$3000 problem now, install a full and proper AFM/DOD delete kit (new cam, lifters, OEM lifter trays) from whomever (TSP for example) and anything else needed (maybe even scope in an oil pump/pump pick-up O-ring and exhaust manifold leak repair as part of the service) vs spending $6000-$8000+ later on a full engine rebuild/replacement because one or more of your lifters completely failed, little lifter roller's needle bearings sent through the engine like shrapnel tearing up your main/rod/cam bearings, destroying your cam and turning the thing into 600 lbs or so of scrap metal, oil and aluminum.

My .02

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I have prolonged my afm lifters by swapping to 10w40 Mobil one with a quart or marvel mystery oil
Along with disabling my flex fuel with a custom tune but you can also get a afm disabler that plugs into your obd2

I had a lifter stick on me twice now and both times I got it broke loose with the marvel mystery oil and driving it like I stole it. Try this at your own Risk but I’m almost 2 years into it with no issues what so ever
Just step up a weight in oil as the mmo thins the oil

What year?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I'd probobly never drive to work if I lived 3 miles from my job. Everyone's situation is different which I can respect. Buy the lower cost disabler and start trying to get a repair savings fund going.

Ok, does anyone know if it’s ok to drive In M5 in Manuel?

 

[lightflyer1]

You can drive in M but economy will drop some. The disabler isn't a fix all. It just stops the lifters from opening and closing all the time and keeps them locked all the time. If there is damage there is damage and wear will continue until it quits or fixed. I bought mine with a tick at a discount and repaired it back to stock with new parts. Then added the diabler to keep it in V8 mode all the time. Still no guarantee from my reading but the chances seem to be less. It is an extra vehicle for me so should last its/my lifetime hopefully. Mine had a bent pushrod on the intake of number 4 cylinder.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

You can drive in M but economy will drop some. The disabler isn't a fix all. It just stops the lifters from opening and closing all the time and keeps them locked all the time. If there is damage there is damage and wear will continue until it quits or fixed. I bought mine with a tick at a discount and repaired it back to stock with new parts. Then added the diabler to keep it in V8 mode all the time. Still no guarantee from my reading but the chances seem to be less. It is an extra vehicle for me so should last its/my lifetime hopefully. Mine had a bent pushrod on the intake of number 4 cylinder.

Can I pop the valve cover off and see what’s wrong?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

In many cases, web-based diagnosis from well-meaning members will only get you so far and eventually it comes to a point where you need a full, hands-on diagnostic work up from a competent shop/service center who will spell out the problems as well as cost to cure in writing.

You can try any of the suggestions above however I'll echo @wjburken and recommend you obtain a complete diagnosis so you can determine what it's going to cost to fix. This way, you can take next steps with financing and logistical arrangements confident you have a complete, accurate picture of the situation and fix it once and for all the right way.

I'd rather deal with a potential $2500-$3000 problem now, install a full and proper AFM/DOD delete kit (new cam, lifters, OEM lifter trays) from whomever (TSP for example) and anything else needed (maybe even scope in an oil pump/pump pick-up O-ring and exhaust manifold leak repair as part of the service) vs spending $6000-$8000+ later on a full engine rebuild/replacement because one or more of your lifters completely failed, little lifter roller's needle bearings sent through the engine like shrapnel tearing up your main/rod/cam bearings, destroying your cam and turning the thing into 600 lbs or so of scrap metal, oil and aluminum.

My .02

Ugh… it sucks! Just got this tbinfs in February

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

So spend the money on a diagnosis from a Chevy delaer? Or go local. Seems local shops can never find the issue. Took 4 trips for them to find a noise

 

[Trey Hardy]

What year?

07 Tahoe the one in my profile picture
My dad diddnt listen to me about tuning the mess out at the very least and his Silverado dropped the lifter at less then 100,000 miles
Mine now has around 350,000 on her and climbing every week.
My .2c is far from a solution but a poor man’s solution to get you by until you have the funds to do a top end rebuild

 

[NickTransmissions]

So spend the money on a diagnosis from a Chevy dealer? Or go local. Seems local shops can never find the issue. Took 4 trips for them to find a noise

Go with whomever you get a REALLY good feeling with...Honestly, you're facing the toughest part of this whole process - choosing a service provider...

If you choose wrong, the impact will be severe and painful (as you can imagine)...I'd shop around, meet w/a few shops plus a couple dealer service depts that would take it in...get pricing, ask questions around warranty, turn around time, paperwork as well as diagnostic work up in light of what you will share initially about the problem so they can begin a dialogue with you about it...Bottom line, make sure that you are comfortable that whomever's going to do it will do it right AND stand behind their work if something goes wrong...

F'n up a cam/lifter installation can cost several thousand dollars and if some fly by night shop does the work, then refuses to honor warranty, you're screwed. Even if you sue and are successful, there's a big difference between judgement and actual collection which can take years.

If you're not getting a really good feeling about local shops, I'd take it to the dealership (or I'd just start with a couple dealerships and go from there)...Advantages include a nationwide network of GM locations if you ever move or are on the road and a problem occurs, plus most major powertrain components are covered for 3 years/100k miles. So if it's determined you need a new engine (or transmission) you receive a GM remanufactured part that you don't have to worry about.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Go with whomever you get a REALLY good feeling with...Honestly, you're facing the toughest part of this whole process - choosing a service provider...

If you choose wrong, the impact will be severe and painful (as you can imagine)...I'd shop around, meet w/a few shops plus a couple dealer service depts that would take it in...get pricing, ask questions around warranty, turn around time, paperwork as well as diagnostic work up in light of what you will share initially about the problem so they can begin a dialogue with you about it...Bottom line, make sure that you are comfortable that whomever's going to do it will do it right AND stand behind their work if something goes wrong...

F'n up a cam/lifter installation can cost several thousand dollars and if some fly by night shop does the work, then refuses to honor warranty, you're screwed. Even if you sue and are successful, there's a big difference between judgement and actual collection which can take years.

If you're not getting a really good feeling about local shops, I'd take it to the dealership (or I'd just start with a couple dealerships and go from there)...Advantages include a nationwide network of GM locations if you ever move or are on the road and a problem occurs, plus most major powertrain components are covered for 3 years/100k miles. So if it's determined you need a new engine (or transmission) you receive a GM remanufactured part that you don't have to worry about.

Thanks nick. Will keep those pointers in mind. I may have to go with a dealership. I’ve met a few shops and tbh they don’t seem on the ball. Just don’t wanna deal with my issue I feel like.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@iboughtatahoe23 I don't think a dealership would be inclined to help with this situation, in my experience most shops won't want to help with this because of the nature of the situation. My best bet in finding shops that would help with AFM delete are smaller shops. Call around and ask which shops have experience with Chevy AFM deletes.

Are you able to do the work yourself?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

@iboughtatahoe23 I don't think a dealership would be inclined to help with this situation, in my experience most shops won't want to help with this because of the nature of the situation. My best bet in finding shops that would help with AFM delete are smaller shops. Call around and ask which shops have experience with Chevy AFM deletes.

Are you able to do the work yourself?

Maybe if I figured a time out. I’m mechanically Inclined but idk about cars!

One wrong move and it’s my whole engine.

 

[lightflyer1]

Most shops I checked with just wanted to swap engines. Dealer probably new others rebuilt or used. $8k plus. Reason I chose to rebuild myself. $2k beats that and I trust my work. Good luck with finding someone you can trust! I am no mechanic but managed my own. I have worked on cars before but usually choose not to do inside engine work now days. This was pretty easy to work on once you find out some things.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

so I can ride in that m5? Until I get a plug in will order that when I get paid this cominf week!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks nick. Will keep those pointers in mind. I may have to go with a dealership. I’ve met a few shops and tbh they don’t seem on the ball. Just don’t wanna deal with my issue I feel like.

YW, and if dealers don't want to do the work and you can't find a shop that you can trust (many won't even touch it, to others' points, given the cost/risk of a come-back) then you'll likely need to have a new engine installed.

Call around - you won't know for sure until you ask...I'm way out of the loop in terms of what shops/dealers will or won't do because I do all that stuff myself...Takes a while but I know it's done right (or have only myself to blame if it gets screwed up, haha).

Lastly, see what it would cost you to trade that thing in now for something you like (assuming you haven't explored that option recently already - if you have, never mind).

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Out of the two noises, I’m having here is one of them, not the grinding noise, this is the tapping noise now I’m not sure if this is the lifter or my exhaust manifold. Could be either, but I think it’s a lifter, since it’s on the opposite side of the broken manifold.

Lifter tap/exhaust tick hard to tell

And I know I need to get it into a decent shop for a better diagnosis on paper. I’m currently waiting for some feedback on a good local mechanic on my local raves and rants page.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

YW, and if dealers don't want to do the work and you can't find a shop that you can trust (many won't even touch it, to others' points, given the cost/risk of a come-back) then you'll likely need to have a new engine installed.

Call around - you won't know for sure until you ask...I'm way out of the loop in terms of what shops/dealers will or won't do because I do all that stuff myself...Takes a while but I know it's done right (or have only myself to blame if it gets screwed up, haha).

Lastly, see what it would cost you to trade that thing in now for something you like (assuming you haven't explored that option recently already - if you have, never mind).

So I called the shop they said they wanna lift it up and look it at it. Gonna drop it off Monday and Tuesday. Still gonna call around and see what I else I can get.